80LS1T Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I am going to be putting a nitrous system in this winter but I want to know as much as I can before I spray for the first time. I am going to be using a "Dynotune" kit(that's the name of the kit). It seems to be very popular over on ls1tech.com. So far this is what I am planning on getting... www.dynotunenitrous.com *LT1 Camaro & Firebird Nitrous System - $379.00 *Nitrous Oxide Remote Bottle Valve - $219.00 NOS angled brand bottle valves, blue handle only! *Nitrous Oxide Purge system Kit - $59.00 -4AN (for use with most street kits) -Automotive Purge Applications *Nitrous Oxide Bottle Warmer Heater 10-15LB Bottles - $99.00 -4AN (for use with most street kits) -Black-Super High Output Heater - $10.00 *Round 2-1/16" Nitrous Switch Center - $149.00 *Time Based Progressive Nitrous Controller - $149.00 *Blow Down kit for Bottles - $29.00 *Fuel Pressure Safety Switch With Chrome Fitting - $39.95 --35 PSI set point for EFI (Adjustable) *Round Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauges - $169.00 -LCD Display with Blue Backlight -White Face -Black Bezel (Round 2-1/16 Gauge) *Round Digital Fuel Pressure Gauges - $169.00 -LCD Display with Blue Backlight -White Face -Black Bezel (Round 2-1/16 Gauge) The one thing I am wondering about is retarding the timing. I am going to spray atleast a 100 HP shot or 150 HP if I can. I know a SBC can can take a 100 shot no problem but my engine is 10.9:1, does this play a factor into how much I can spray. My engine is a completly rebuilt LT1 with stock rods and hyper pistons(I really wish I would have gone forged!) So nitrous guru's enlighten me, what do I need to know and what am I missing on my list if anything? Guy:burnout: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a6t8vw Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 are you useing the stock fuel pump? if so you might want to upgrade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 How about a switch on your throttle linkage so the system can only be activated at WOT. A great aid in preventing unwanted intake backfires. (Not sure but maybe your Nitrous Switch Center takes care of that already.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Upgrade your fuel delivery and run a MSD digital retard box so you can pull timing automatically when you hit the button. I use a full throttle switch and a button, reason I do is to limit the mistakes. Expensive mistakes! I have mine set up with a seperate fuel delivery system, meaning seperate fuel cell, electric pump, and regulator, MSD digital retard box, full throttle switch and a button to push, it's probably overkill but thats why my motor is still here! Take atleast 2 degree's of timing out for every 50 hp of nitrous. I run 32 degree's total timing on motor and 26 total on a 150 shot. Thats very conservative I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383dime Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 laern how to read your plugs. start with a 75 shot run a pass as soon as your done turn your car off take your plugs out and examine them. this can tell you lots of things, to lean,detonating, etc. then if everything is good pull a degree or how ever many, step up the shot to a 100 run another pass and repeat. as for the stand alone fuel system i agreee way over kill for a 150 shot just make sure your pump can keep up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sick240 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 i run two fuel systems also, with a 3 step retard box to pull out the timing. better to be safe than sorry. plus i need to be able to make the drive home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 Well my fuel system is pretty decent. All -6AN supply and return lines, MSD fuel pump(good to 500HP), and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I am still running an OPTISpark but have a MSD 6AL and blaster 2 coil. I am going to switch from TR55 plugs to TR6 plugs(1 step colder). The nitrous kit comes with a WOT switch. I am probably going to run a window switch too so it only engauges betwee 3K and 6K RPMS. What MSD retard box can be controlled from in the car or atleast set up to only retard timing when the nitrous is used? Thanks for the help so far! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 What comes in the kit? does the kit have a fuel pressure regulator that increase the fuel pressure when the N02 is on? does the kit have some kind of timing retard or do they expect you to turn down the timing before using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I would call Jon Phillips, he is the nitrous guru. I think his screen name here is 1quickz. Retarding timing is usually 2 degrees for every 50HP shot, so with a 100 shot it would be 4 degress retard in timing. You sure are getting a lot of fancy stuff. The progressive controller is a good thing I would highly reccomend it. Call Jon Phillips, he is the man.... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 This is right from the dynotune website... LT1 Camaro & Firebird Nitrous System (607) DynoTune Nitrous Systems Perform!!! Checkout a video of this system DynoTune Wet Kit 150HP shot This kit is made for the LT1 Camaro and Firebird. It comes with everything to install and is fully adjustable from 75 to 150hp. The following parts are included: >10lb bottle with high flow valve >4AN stainless bottle nut & Teflon washer >Stainless quick connect Bottle brackets and hardware >16 foot braided stainless feed line, blue fittings >High Flow Nitrous and Fuel solenoids >Solenoid mounting bracket >2 foot Braided stainless Nitrous and Fuel feed lines, red and blue fittings >Braided stainless line for Fuel rail test port installation, red fitting >Jets for 75, 100 and 150HP >High flow Wet Nozzle >Wet Nozzle Mounting adaptor so the Nozzle does not blow out during injection causing a fire, makes mounting the nozzle in plastic or rubber a snap! >Lighted arming switch, relay, wire and wire harness, fuse, crimp terminals etc.. >Micro throttle activation switch and mounting bracket >Our 22 page Nitrous installation and tuning book is included! Full pictures and detailed installation instructions for the LT1 application. Stainless steel components are standard on all DynoTune Nitrous kits, not plastic or brass. This DynoTune Nitrous kit is tuned for a safe reliable Horsepower increase. More and more folks are switching to DynoTune products due to the price, Performance, innovation and support you will get with no other Manufacturer. Isn’t it time you made the switch? There is no extra FMU(fuel management unit), as far as I know you dont need to increase fuel pressure when the nitrous is activated. The timing has to be retarded by the user, no timing retard module included. I think I figured out what I am going to use for retarding the timing... MSD 8975 Digital Multi-Retard Timing Control. Seems like it will be a little over kill but will be easy to adjust and no little pills to deal with to change the timing when I want to. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sick240 Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 What MSD retard box can be controlled from in the car or atleast set up to only retard timing when the nitrous is used? Thanks for the help so far! Guy I'm useing the MSD 3-step retard box, it is mounted in the car, on the side of the passanger foot area. its wired up to the noids so once they come on it retards the timing. The box comes with pills so you just put in the pill with how ever much timing you want to be pulled out. hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 although you never said when you plan on hitting the Nitrous i'd save some cash for rear end parts just in case. Don't get too caught up with just fuel pressure volume is also very important especially if you are not running a separate line and pump for the Nitrous system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 26, 2007 Author Share Posted December 26, 2007 I don't think i will be breaking rear end parts because I will be using a window switch and a progressive controller so that it doesn't hit so hard. Atleast that's what I am hoping! As for the fuel, I will start off with a 75 shot and work my way up. I will be monitoring the AFR's with a wideband to make sure everything is good. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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