janaka Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 well this weekend I go to pick up my '00 SS drop out LS1 and T56 (40k on it, stock). I've got my motor stand all set up and ready to go to work for the first time I'm looking for some input from those with LSx's on your opinion's on cam swaps on these motors. I know that with the motor out the swap will be a breeze as nothing is in the way etc etc. I could only imagine trying to do the swap in the car . Has anyone done an LSx cam swap with the motor IN the car? Is it something that I should just do with it out and get it done 'easily'? I know that I want some more power than a stock LS1 and longtubes are not happening, I will be doing an LS6 intake and a ported TB, mandrel exhuast (with cutout) and the JTR headers so I'm not sure what else I can do for good HP increases with a moderate price (aka heads not so cheap, those would be a 'down the road' mod). I've been lurking a lot on ls1tech and ls1.com and the cam that seems to fit my needs is a 224/224 witha 114lsa (want a nice idle as my wife will drive this 2-3days a week to work). It seems that this is a nice littlle cam (fairly mild) that gives some decent gains with a tune and some bolt ons (as said above). I would also at the same time change valvesprings, go to a hardened push rod and change the timing chain and oil pump while I'm at it (oh no, there's that saying)... Thoughts, comments concerns with regards to cam swaps on these motors and my train of thought as shared above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I've never worked on an LS series engines, but I would still follow the cam manufacturers recommendations on valve springs. I know a lot of guys have gone to dual springs depending on their cams, but everything I've read on beehive springs says that is the way to go if your cam is not to radical. You get variable damping characteristics without the heavy seat pressure, it's worth a few horse just with those springs alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Swapping a cam on LS motors is suppose to be a breeze. The motors are designed such that you don't have to pull the lifters to swap a cam. The only real work is pulling the radiator. Pick up any book on LS motors and see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted December 21, 2007 Author Share Posted December 21, 2007 Swapping a cam on LS motors is suppose to be a breeze. The motors are designed such that you don't have to pull the lifters to swap a cam. The only real work is pulling the radiator. Pick up any book on LS motors and see what I mean. I've read the how-to install on the LS forums already and I wasn't sure if it'd be the same in our car since the motor sits so low in relation to everything... ie bumper etc and wasn't sure if the cam would clear everthing even with the rad removed from a Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 I think it will be a straight shot through the radiator opening. Maybe someone has done an in car cam swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LZ1 Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 I had a 98ss and did a cam swap, and compared to the old style sbc it is a breeze. Don't even have to pull the intake or fuel rails off the car. Pull the valve covers off. Take the rockers off and pull out the pushrods. Take the front cover off along with the timing chain. Turn the cam over a couple of times.This will push the lifters up into the lifter trays and the tray will hold the lifters in place. Lube up your new cam and slide it in carefully. Put everything back together. I would go with the beehive springs as long as your cam is not over .600 lift. Which most 224 cams are around .580. They are cheaper and are damn good springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 This won't apply directly to the LS1 as my engine is the LT1 but if the engine sits as low as mine you will not have a problem clearing anything once the radiator is removed. My own personal preference would be to do the swap while the engine is out of the car. Why make things harder than necessary. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 The concern I had in my past was; does the car have a condernser (can the condenser be moved enough to remove the cam w/out breaking the A/C lines. Do you have to remove the grille, can you do so w/out breaking it. Basically, how much do you have to remove in order to pull the cam out and can you remove those items w/out breaking their plastic retainer ears. W/this engine's position to the front of the car - would the cam be able to come out thru the grille area, core support area w/out hitting any other body parts? If you cant w/out a shaddow of a doubt give a yes to those answers then you are probably better off just pulling the engine. I've done cam swaps w/engines in the car in other vehicles; but never a late model Camaro. Go to your local GM/Chevy dealer or your local speed shop that has their own garage; ask to speak to one of their engine line techs. They should be more than happy to answer your question. I've always had good luck talking to local shops if/when I didnt have an answer to an automotive queston. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 when you have the pushrods out and you rotate the cam, put dowl rods in the two holes on either side so the lifters dont fall down,if they fall down you will have to remove the heads. as for cam selection. do a big cam. i have a 240/242 .600 .610 on 110 LSA. car is an auto. drives great. you just have to make sure you have someone who is really good tune it. ive put 12k on my car this year after i did the cam. my 2 cents is that you either put in a big cam or leave the stock cam in there. do cam, dual valve springs and hardend pushrods. pacesetter long tube coated headers are also a must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iflyfast1 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I did a cam/head swap on my LS6 on my 260Z a few months ago. Yes, it can be done in the car. Yes, it is a PITA. The radiator and grill need to come out. Maybe the bumper as well (My bumper was already off so I don't know for sure). I have an aftermarket condensor and had enough hose slack to get enough room to clear. It took a full days worth of work. The cam/head swap itself is easy, but it takes time to get everything pulled off and my back isn't what it used to be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick56289 Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 Around how much would a good tune cost if you upgraded the cam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68birdls1 Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Around how much would a good tune cost if you upgraded the cam? Depends on if you go to a big shop or if you can find someone that does it on the side. A big shop will cost you about $500 for a dyno tune and street tune. The guy that did my car, does tunes on the side and he did it for $300.. straight street tune but anytime I want to go to a dyno he said he would go and the tune is a lifetime tune for the car so I won't have to pay again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.