Buckv8240 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I have a 350 sbc thats probly making btw 300-375 hp. Im swapping my turbo 350 (forsale) for a WC t5 set up. I'd rather not spend $700 on a clutch because I'm a poor college kid with limited income. Does any body have reccomendations on a good clutch to use? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I have a Ram clutch, I think the pressure plate / flywheel and disk cost me about 500. Loose the billet flywheeel and you're looking at about 300+. I think mine is a 'stock upgrade' which means stock peddle feel but a bit more pressure at the disk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Bill what is your engine set up (HP/TQ wise?) Which Ram clutch are you useing the one from Summit? I'm considering the Center Force DF clutch or the Stage II, haven't yet made up my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8ZRACER260Z Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I ran the centerforce D/F on mine for several years with close to 500 hp and had no problems. I have the 11" set up from Jegs with the billet flywheel also. I think it was around 500 incl the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I had good results with a the 10.5 inch ram clutch setup. I used the bronze 6 puck and a flywheel from an old 67 nova (153 tooth). Held up pretty well to my 450hp/425ftlb (362 sbc). Even did ok with a 200 hp shot of n02 (600+hp/600+ftlbs). The clutch finally burned up because of the way I was slipping it off the line at the drag strip. But it lasted 3 years of very heavy drag racing and street pounding. I later switched to a ram sintered iron clutch but it's quick engagement makes it hard to drive on the street. The bronze disk was a good street clutch. Using the bronze disk, ran mid 11's at 120 without n02 with MT drag slicks and a T5. mid 10's at 135 with n02 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 V8ZRACER Are you limited to the the size of the disk you can run? My tranny is out fo a 91 Z28 it's a WC-T5. Would I need to upgrade the flywheel to a larger diameter (ie 11"?) and or would the stock bell housing accomdate a larger clutch/PP and flywheel? (I'm ignorant about clutches) The Ram clutch I'm running seem to be OK but going with the stroker set up I want something that will hold the power (est 500 hp + 100 HP NO2) Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8ZRACER260Z Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Yes the 11" will fit the stock bellhousing however you definately want to run a scattershield if you're planning a 500-600HP setup (Lakeland & McCleod both make them for your set up) . Safety first!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Can I forgo the billet flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 David, I'll have to look up the PN's. I'm pretty sure it's their 1 step up from stock 10.5" disk and pp. I went with the Billet flywheel because 1. I needed a new one and 2. didn't feel like I needed a scattersheild w/ my HP, but wanted a little piece of mind. Power ratings from my motor are in the low 300's, torque should be close to 400. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 I'm using a scattershield on my car. However, i had to cut the bottom lip off the shield for ground and exhaust clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I have a 350 sbc thats probly making btw 300-375 hp. Im swapping my turbo 350 (forsale) for a WC t5 set up. I'd rather not spend $700 on a clutch because I'm a poor college kid with limited income. Does any body have recommendations on a good clutch to use? thanks I'll be the odd man out here--I'm using (have in a box) a stock replacement clutch for the WC T5 and a V8 rated at 350 hp. I know 73BOTIZ (Mike D) was running one in his Non WC T5 and at least at 375 hp. He bought his clutch for $75 delivered from ebay. He even drag raced his car and it still held up (at least until he eventually sold the car) but was using street tires. Unless you are shocking the drive train at the strip on a normal basis, the stock replacement should hold up fine for a long time. The T5 came in a Camaro that weighs a lot more than the Z car and they seem to hold up fine for the most part. I suppose it all depends on how you drive the car. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 going along with DavyZ, I made a lot of low 13 second passes on a stock clutch. Hickl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Glenn McCoy went with a stock replacement T-5 clutch setup. A few thousand miles later with not that much heavy use and the 450ish HP 383 is causing it to slip. Don't skimp - R&Ring a clutch is no fun, and you might over heat the flywheel and possibly make it unsafe to use again. I'm running a CFDF clutch with my 407ci engine - barely broken in. It held up to a bit of WOT use not even the 500 street miles into the use of the clutch that they warn you to be easy with it. The reason the JTR book says to use the 153 tooth flywheel is the starter placement issue and the T/C rod bracket. I am not sure that an 11" clutch can fit on a 153 tooth flywheel, but if it can, definitely go with an 11" unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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