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COMPLETE Re-Wire Of 240Z / LS1 / T56


240Z2NV

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The shell that I bought for my project was just that...a SHELL. I have had to acquire all of the little bits & pieces that we take for granted.

 

My question to those of you who have a fully operational LS1 hybrid that is street driven, with most/all normal conveniences is:

 

How many total circuits do you have on your fuse junction?

 

How many relays/switches?

 

Any Maxi fuses [50A +]?

 

I already have the engine compartment/PCM harness [thanks mas280]; but, I will have to create a complete harness for EVERYTHING else. I know where to get the materials, and have an idea of which terminal I will be using [thanks Tim240Z]; but, still not entirely sure how many total terminals [gangs] that I will need.

 

Based upon the books that I have been reading [thanks Owen], some of the items can be joined on a single circuit; but, I'm not clear as to which ones.

 

So, any of you with daily-type drivers, could you please count your circuits and give me an email or PM? I will be laying the entire system out fastened onto a 4'x8' piece of leftover veneer to check everything.

 

Thank you in advance. Any pics would be GREAT, as well.

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While buulding your own harness may seem like the way to go, a better way would be to use some of the existing offerings from companies like Painless, Speedwire, Spaghetti Menders, etc.

 

In many cases the wires are prelabled and even pre loomed for the wires that have common termination points.

 

I usually buuld my own harnesses as well, but I'll be using a pre assembled fuse panel/harness, in my S30 (once I get one and to the point of wiring). Reason being is that for the price that I can get them for, it saves so much time just assembling something similar.

 

For circuit selection, find these offerings and they will list the number of circuits and what those circuits are. A basic street car seems to need between 12 to 14 circuits, one with more options such as A/C, power Windows, power locks, etc, can need more, some compaines offer 18 circuit panels (maybe more). In a Race car 8 Circuit seems to be what is common, again sometimes more depending on the amount of electronics, such as dataloggers, EFI, controllers, etc.

Also just because that circuit says "radio" doesn't mean that it HAS to be used for a radio, it could be used for another accessory that only needs power in the accessory position.

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I did this over the last 6 months but I started with a cut-up Z harness (35 years of hacks does that) plus an f-body engine harness. I ended up using the f-body harness and fuse block for the engine power / starter relay / ignition relay. Seems you already have a complete stand-alone harness for the LS. How many other circuits depends on how you wire it really. For example will all the gauges be on one circuit? Power to the low power side of relays on one circuit? Power to starter relay? Power to ignition relay? Power to fan relay? Reduntant left and right separate headlight relays? Etc. T56 back-up switch requires power into the ECM for it to work. F-body fuel tank (if your using it) requires power to the pressure sensor which is used for the evap system. In addition to the engine fuse/relay block I have a generic 10 fuse block, a fan relay, and two headlight relays. That's it and I'm out of fuses and need more for the wideband, additional gauges, fuel tank pressure sensor, etc. I've tried to avoid splicing a bunch of stuff together so the fuses get used up real fast. Need to decide what you will be splicing together to really say. I also have the most stripped down possible configuration with no horn (shh dont tell anyone), no wipers, no heater or blower just basics to make it marginably streetable (lights, brakes, flasher, turn signals, gauges, power outlet for G-tech).

 

If I had to do it again I think I would have just gone with a Painless or equivalent or at least used some type of either screw terminal fuseblock (if they exist) or a terminal strip to be able to easily splice multiple circuits together. I dont really like twisting several wires together, solder, wrap and would rather use terminals only so I can easily see the connections and are not buried in a harness somewhere.

 

Cameron

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Thanks to the both of you for taking the time. The "painless" system isn't really so painless at nearly $500. I've looked at others as well, even eBay. One of the things that I really dislike is the fact that so few of those 'stand alone' set-ups come with covers. I want my terminal covered and very clean.

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if you want to save money I suggest you go to a junk yard and buy a complete fuse box panel from the latest car you can find. It should have plenty of circuits, relays, Maxi fuses you will need for the entire Z. It's just a matter of finding the schematic diagram for that fuse box and then you can splice in what ever function you will use for your Z. I have this Service Information software which I have the wiring diagrams for all the GM cars. If you decide to go this route let me know and I will try to dig up the wiring diagram for the fuse box you plan to get.

 

I used the underhood fuse box from a C5 Vette in my LS1 swap. I could have wire the whole car electrical system thru this fuse box but I didn't have time. So I only used a few relays for the fan and starter and fuel pump. Good luck.

Vinh

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