BillZ260 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 Yesterday after my last post I decided to quite whining and make a decision! I received another comment from Kevin with kind of backed up my decision based on what had happed durring re-assembly. I took the smaller clip, which was tight to get on, but it went w/ out haveing to exessivly extend it. (Terry I liked your idea to re-measure it to ensure it didn't extend past it's yeilding point, but I didn't do it last night cause I hadn't read your thoughts yet!). Anyway, I installed the ring, and was cleaning off old silicone and stuff and decided to double check that the ring had set into place. It had not, even though when I slid it in place there was a definit solid "SNAP", but when I looked closely, it wasn't fully seated, so I lightly tapped with a punch and it went ahead "SNAPPED" in place again and I then verified that it was in fact seated. SO, I now believe that the larger ring is fine, it just wasn't fully seated. I'm guessing that one tip 'snapped' into place and sounded good enough, but it wasn't. Kevin's note reflected the concern above from the beginning, and said I could use the smaller ring if I really wanted to but he felt it wan't necessarry. Tommorrow I'll attempt to jumble the trans back into the car and get it all put back together and if it fails again. then I'll look into the G-Force set up. This go-round is only going to cost me a new Gallon of fluid and the down time, but this is what a hobby is about right? Thanks all, I'll let you know how it turns out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Wow, it takes alot of man to admit that you made a mistake to the rest of the world. Hats off to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 No kidding, I would have assumed that the snap would of ment it is seated. Have to keep that in mind when dealing with snap rings. I help my bother in law put what appeared to be key rings that you had to put in on the wrist pins of the pistions. Two a side, that was tough and was difficult to see if was seated. Still running after a bunch of low 9's qurter mile passes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 Terry, those are BEEFY. If I have anymore problems, looks like G-force has the solutions for me, albeit a bit pricey. Dr_Hunt, Thanks! I appreciate the compliment! Personally, I'm totally fine with making a mistake, as long as I gain something from it. Sometimes it MAY take me a little longer to admit than others, but it is what it is I'm just glad I came to a conclusion I can live with, and hopefully helped out fellow enthusiast along the way. I'll through out a couple things that hopefully encourage some of you guys that are afraid of tackling a project, simply because you have never done it before. 1. DON'T be afraid to take stuff apart. This may seem over simplistic, but in reality, someone put it together before you, there is no reason you can't. 2. READ the manual, if you have one. If you don't, take pictures and notes. 3. ASK for help if you needed it. If you get stuck, it's ok to ask for help and chances are someone on here has gone through the same issue. 4. Have fun! NOW, I need to run and see if I can get that T-5 back into place. (I did ask my little bro to help out with the maneuvering of this thing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 The race is on. Stayed up until 0230 last night assembling the t-5. Contrary to any other time that I've R&R'd something, putting it back together was actually easier than pulling it all apart. Obviously generic assembly instructions did not apply completely, but none-the-less, it is together, sealed, and appears to shift fine (a little tight, but fine), LIKE NEW! BTW, I want to put in a premature plug in for the guys at G-Force. Their main shaft had a hole in it for a pin, and the hole was a little too tight to slide the pin in (it was machined prior to the hardening process). I tried to force it (yeah, I know...1st rule of mechanics), and the pin snapped (extremely hard and brittle). Anyway, I explained the situation to those guys, and they sent me a new shaft (no cost) with the stipulation that I needed to send the original one back to them. Great customer service (answered a bunch of questions as well). If the gears hold up as well as their service, I'm set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 The whole reason I went down the G-Force path is because I shredded 5th gear in my Datsun 5spd (non-T5) on a WOT blast down the freeway. Great, you are giving me cause for concern now! I have a non-T5 in my car and do the occassional 5th gear, uphill, full load blast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Trans is in, took about 3.5 hours or so of JUMBLING that 100 lb hunk of metal around. Man it is really tight when you swap the trans and leave the motor. Just FYI, I ended up placing the jack on the bell housing and lifting it up until the input shaft was close to lining up with the hole, then I picked up the tail and suspended it through the shifter hole. Once I did that I could easily jiggle it directly above me and got it to engage. So once I figured out how to do it, it was really about 45 min Couple of loose ends to tie up tomorrow, but hopefully I can fire her off and test my snap ring Thanks guys! Good luck Terry, G-force sounds pretty stand up, compared to some other stories that have been posted, or maybe that was another company... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Bill, here is a little tip for next time you have to drop it with the engine in the car. Buy four (4) 100 mm long M10x1.5 studs. Thread those into the block where the four bolts go. These act as guides for the bell housing when you are re-installing the tranny. Get the bell housing onto the four studs and you are golden. The input shaft will be lined up correctly, all you have to do then is rotate the output shaft so that the splines line up while you push on the bell housing. After the tranny is in place, remove each stud one at a time and replace with the appropriate bolt. I learned this trick after my 6th swap in 2 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 Bo-Thanks for the tip, but that's for dropping the trans and leaving the bellhousing on the block correct? I wish I could have done that, as it would have been mucho prefered to what I had to do. Unfortunatly, with the Tilton HTOB's threaded input collar, the HTOB and hydralics had to stay on the trans, and I couln't pull the hydralic's through the bell housing. That Bellhousing is what created all the headache, but now that i've done it once, if I every have to, it should go pretty smooth. The key was getting the bellhousing up first and then pulling the rear up. Got the car back together yesterday, started it up and rowed through 5th, everything seems good for now. Oh, accept I just I confirmed what's been noted before on the Toyota Caliper swap, I have ZERO rear brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Oh, accept I just I confirmed what's been noted before on the Toyota Caliper swap, I have ZERO rear brakes. I think you're an attention whore. I put the bellhousing up in place last night, measured for the HTOB, and will be putting the transmission up in the car this week some time. I put longer AN-4 lines on the HTOB to make it easier to pull/push the lines through the bellhousing hole while simultaneously stabbing it. And yes, I bought some M12 x 1.75 5" studs (actually bolts which I've cut the head off) to assist in this endeavor per KTM's post. While I have the transmission out, I'm replacing the reverse switch, and the other switch (another reverse related switch) with short M16 x 1.5 bolts to get rid of the switches and wires associated with them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 I think you're an attention whore. Whore might not be the right term.... more like BIMBO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Bo-Thanks for the tip, but that's for dropping the trans and leaving the bellhousing on the block correct? I just realized (doh moment) that you do not have an L-series motor. However, the concept is the same but the bolt/stud size will be different. Nope, for dropping the entire transmission. You drop the transmission first. When the tranny is out, thread in the studs all the way until refusal (finger tight). Clearance may be an issue so you do not want them too long, but they need to be long enough so you can pull them out when the transmission is mated to the block. Once the bellhousing is seated on the studs, you are 80% there as the bellhousing alignment is set. No more lining up holes in hope of getting the input shaft aligned. Also, the sutds help to stabilize the transmission and act as guides. You simply need to keep the tailshaft supported with the jack while you push the transmission forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 13, 2008 Author Share Posted February 13, 2008 Short test run to the Z meeting this evening. Trans did just fine! I didn't really put any power down, but I was freexing my arse off and really just wanted to get home. 5th works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 Hard pull through 5th and over a certain high rate of speed (since my speedo's not quite working right yet) last night and all is good. I guess that little clip CAN hold! Man this car is bad ass, and it's so mild compared to MOST of your guy's cars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Update: I finally got the 6.3L running with the upgraded T-5 using G-Force gears and mainshaft. The gear noise is very noticable (but the transmission is solidly mounted to the chassis) compared to the OEM gears. I've not pushed hard on the new assmebly (new motor and transmission) as yet, but so far, my observations are in line with the gear manufacturer's anticipated characteristics of the new gears. The transmission is very tight (per their suggested assembly instructions) until the transmission warms up. After warm-up, the transmission shifts great. If I had to comment on anything unexpected, it was the noise from the 5th gear. It is cut straighter than the first 4 gears, and much coarser than the OEM gear, so it has quite a bit of whine to it, almost too much. I don't know if this is normal, so I'm going to be cautious in this gear for a litte while and let it break in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Update: I finally got the 6.3L running with the upgraded T-5 using G-Force gears and mainshaft. The gear noise is very noticable (but the transmission is solidly mounted to the chassis) compared to the OEM gears. I've not pushed hard on the new assmebly (new motor and transmission) as yet, but so far, my observations are in line with the gear manufacturer's anticipated characteristics of the new gears. The transmission is very tight (per their suggested assembly instructions) until the transmission warms up. After warm-up, the transmission shifts great. If I had to comment on anything unexpected, it was the noise from the 5th gear. It is cut straighter than the first 4 gears, and much coarser than the OEM gear, so it has quite a bit of whine to it, almost too much. I don't know if this is normal, so I'm going to be cautious in this gear for a litte while and let it break in. Terry, You very accurately summed up my experience with the G-force T-5. 3rd gear down shifts can really scream if you are at just the right RPM. 5th gear cruising can be a little irritating if you are going long distances. The notchy shifting is normal when cold. However, I was able to fix it with a 50/50 mix of G-force GF2000 lube and Royal Puple Synchromax. Overall it was a the best solution for me. I don't worry a bit about the transmission. Drag racing has been no issue. If I was a really good fabricator I might have tried to make a Tremec TKO 600 work but that would have been a more serious undertaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Terry, If I was a really good fabricator I might have tried to make a Tremec TKO 600 work but that would have been a more serious undertaking. I was too lazy for that. Unfortunately, the money spent rebuilding T-5 was almost as much as a new TKO, BUT, I could simply bolt it right into place where the TKO would need some conversion work. One thing you said that I must agree on in the shifting experience: I've got to be patient, and shift cautiously for the first couple of miles until the tranny box warms up, but by then the assembly is in perfect specs due to the case expansion, and shifting becomes better than it was when the tranny was OEM and new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 Glad to see you go your new box together Terry, Glad it's working for you Mine is holding together, I'm well through break in milage and I've got new fluid in it now, I've had no problems with notchy shifting, but I don't have the Gforce gearset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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