grumpyvette Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 now Im sure most of you guys have seen or used both types, (the old cork 4 pice sets and the newer synthetic one piece design oil pan gaskets) in my opinion the newer synthetic one piece style is FAR superior! if you read the instructions they say to not use a sealant, Ive found that use of contact cement ONLY on the surface between the upper gasket and blocks lower edge to be a better idea as you can slide the gasket in place then install the oil pan, especially if your under the car, but I also advise the use of STUDS in the BLOCK whenever you can use them as its so much more precise and keeps the gasket from moving as much durring the installation procedure. BTW the 4 corner studs are a differant dia. (larger) so keep that in mind and you don,t want the studs to extend to far below the block as it can cause clearance and installation problems if your sliding the pan on/off under the car with the K-member, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D38350&autoview=sku your oil pan seal thickness /type, and blocks rear seal type , the year and dip stick location will determine the correct gasket ASK QUESTIONS , and KNOW THE ANSWERS BEFORE ASSUMING ANYTHING and remember the oil pan will only clear that K-member with the crank counter weights in a single location,on some cars so if your having a nervious fit trying to get it to clear the K-frame the counter weights more than likely in the wrong rotational location, SPIN IT OVER A BIT TO CLEAR :thumbsup: THERES OIL PAN GASKETS DESIGNED for EXTRA stroker clearance , USE THEM! ONE PIECE OIL PAN GASKETS HERES A BASIC LIST SMALL BLOCK FELPRO http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_746664_-1_10197 TWO PIECE REAR SEAL OS34509T: Thin seal OS34510T: Thick seal http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_47050_-1 one-piece main seal blocks use this one: OS34500R Which type you use is dependent on your oil pan, not the block or timing cover. BBC LISTED ALSO http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_746664_-1_10197 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=oil+pan+gaskets&searchinresults=false&N=700+115&y=8&x=43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Grumpy, what should you torque the bolts to and in what pattern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Nice write up there . I used a 1 piece once before worked good easy to install. This time for my oil pan i didnt use a gasket !!!!! Yes i said no gasket except on the ends of the pan , at work " i work for Hyundai " we dont use gasket on the engines except for the valve cover and intake manifold . We use what we call " ultra grey " a fancy rtv silicone gasket goo . So after man many oil pans and many many trans pans with no gaskets and no leaks i figured id try it on my oil pan . Only time will tell as i havent put oil in the engine yet . Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 As usual grumpy, this is priceless information! I only wish you would have posted about 4 weeks ago! I re-used my pan when i did my SBC rebuild, only to find it had a small pin hole in it. So I bought a new Summit pan, painted it black, and picked up the Felpro dual dipstick gasket shown above. But I didn't know whether to get the thick or thin, and through frustration of trying to explain which gasket i needed for a Datsun that had a Chevy V8 I forgot to ask about thick or thin. So now, after re-torquing my pan bolts at least 4 times, i've got the leaks down to drips but still at the front and rear of the pan. I can only assume that I bought the thin, and needed the thick...I'll check the part numbers on the box, and if need be, I'll grab a new one this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Nice write up there . I used a 1 piece once before worked good easy to install. This time for my oil pan i didnt use a gasket !!!!! Yes i said no gasket except on the ends of the pan , at work " i work for Hyundai " we dont use gasket on the engines except for the valve cover and intake manifold . We use what we call " ultra grey " a fancy rtv silicone gasket goo . So after man many oil pans and many many trans pans with no gaskets and no leaks i figured id try it on my oil pan . Only time will tell as i havent put oil in the engine yet . Jason My OEM nissan gasket kit came with red silicone stuff for the pan. I am pretty sure I don't even need bolts its so hard to get the damn thing removed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I swear by Permatex #2, very thin coating on both sides of all my paper/cork gaskets. Silicone/Polymer gaskets are definitely superior and would not need an additional coating or sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 Grumpy, what should you torque the bolts to and in what pattern? this should help, (I generally snug the bolts up on the oil pan by feel and don,t over tighten them, and I generally use a small 1/4" drive ratchet to do so, not a tq wrench, (I think its 14-15 ft lbs or 165-170 inch lbs if you want to get technical) Im sure theres a specification, your supposed to use but Ive seldom had any problems just snugging them up by the feel with a short 1/4" drive ratchet.) I generaly tighten in stages and constanly circle the pattern, I think the main problem occure when guys OVER TIGHTEN and crush the gaskets, snug but not tight works, if the gaskets being squished out noticably between the block and pan lip, your more than likely over tightening the bolts, heres where experiance comes into play, if your not sure use a inch rated tq wrench at 170 inch lbs http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81323 http://www.small-block-chevy.com/assemblyspec.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 ok thanks grumpy. I'm actually about to do an oil pan gasket on a car I just bought. I did a trans pan on my truck and tightened the piss out of it only to find the new one leaked worse than the old one so I knew I did something wrong. I didn't do the tighten in a circle thing either... I thought tighten from inside out... why circle? I thought you wanted to work the slack in the gasket out(wards). Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rytherwr Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Many thanks, Grump...very timely...just so happens I needed to pull my pan to re-weld the turbo drain-back fittings that I screwed up the first time by being lazy and I used your info to get the gasket. I appreciate! Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 ok thanks grumpy. I'm actually about to do an oil pan gasket on a car I just bought. I did a trans pan on my truck and tightened the piss out of it only to find the new one leaked worse than the old one so I knew I did something wrong. I didn't do the tighten in a circle thing either... I thought tighten from inside out... why circle? I thought you wanted to work the slack in the gasket out(wards). Thanks. Hey man, make sure you didn't bend the flange up real bad. I have had massive oil leaks due to my excessive use of force LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Grumpy, Just checked my gasket and it is the thick OS34510T you mentioned above. When I installed it, I only used gasket at the CORNER's mentioned in the instructions where the tabs of the gasket slide up into the block. It's still slightly dripping, maybe a quarter sized puddle or more now after a drive. I've done several re-torq's after the build. Motor has 100-200 miles on it. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 "Any thoughts?" ID check the oil pan rails are not bent/warped and if you need to use some black silicone sealant, but Ive never yet had that be necessary, most leaks are the result of EITHER the gasket not being seated correctly or over tightening the bolts bending oil pan. you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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