280zx_sliding Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 its good they got it running. i was going to suggest the same thing that roger said. the battery being slightly loose could cause the one pop and no start thing. as far as cleaning the grounds go just get some electric parts cleaner and a wire brush spray a little on the contact surface and the contact itself and clean it a little. with the cig lighter thing u might wanna check the fuse for that also. if the fuse is a little loose or the wrong resistance it could possibly cause that. if all else fails we will just say there were 85 different police officers with different radars all around you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 Lately my car has been having a sort of issue. My idiot lights ie: Fuel, Door, Brake, stay on when I start the car and while I'm driving. This is something that just recently started. I checked my belt and found that it was a little loose, tightened it up and the problem seemed ok, but I guess it wasn't the problem. Tonight on my way back from a friend's place, eventually my dash lights eventually got dim, my radio would no longer work and my fan motor stopped working. My headlights got really dim and everything. After a little while everything just suddenly lit up bright, the idiot lights went off, and my headunit and blower motor were working again. This seems like a symptom of a crappy alternator to me, I'll have to go get it tested. Can auto parts stores test your alternator in the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted March 7, 2008 Author Share Posted March 7, 2008 make sure someone didn't cut off the ground cable. The ground cable should go to a bolt just below the battery box and then to the starter. If that bolt gets corroded some people go straight to starter. this can cause insufficient earthings as the limeys say. Also not a bad idea to run a couple of grounds to either side of the engine compartment. I use 10 gauge wire to a convenient 6mm bolt on either side of the frame. There are plenty to chose from. Just a follow up - I checked the grounds in the engine bay last night (while drying out my TPS after an engine degreasing gone awry - another fun story...). The grounds all seem really good - no rust and no corrosion. I still need to check the cig lighter ground, and look into my non-functioning hazard light switch. Think I'll also check into adding grounds from the battery to other parts of the engine bay, just to be safe for later. Thanks again all who chimed in here! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunD Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 "Automotive electrical and computer systems are designed to tolerate up to 100% noise on their input lines. Meaning, for instance, if the ECU is expecting a 12-volt input signal, the signal may vary in the range of 0 to 12 volts. Fluctuations in signal are due to noise and resistance in the system. Noise is generated by spark plugs firing, discharges through the tires to the road, alternator turning on/off, etc. Resistance is the inability of the system to conduct electricity properly. One of the best-proven ways to compensate for noise and resistance is with proper grounding. Engine grounding has been used in the racing industry for years. The benefits have been proven and documented. The Custom Engine Grounding Kit allows for cleaner data transfer to the ECU. The result is more accurate measurements by the ECU and therefore more accurate performance, smoother idle and better acceleration. On carbureted Z's, it will help with all of the other electrical systems from the often dim headlights to the ignition system". -Quote from, Motorsport Auto MSA sells grounding kits for $80 70-78 Z's and 03-06 350Z's, but i don't know i'f their is a simalar kit for the 1980 Z? anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 alternators don't have brushes you are about 20 years behind this car. My 240z, 280z and 87 4runner had brushes, changed them out and saved a bunch on instead of buying a rebuild alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 "Automotive electrical and computer systems are designed to tolerate up to 100% noise on their input lines. Meaning, for instance, if the ECU is expecting a 12-volt input signal, the signal may vary in the range of 0 to 12 volts. Fluctuations in signal are due to noise and resistance in the system. Noise is generated by spark plugs firing, discharges through the tires to the road, alternator turning on/off, etc. Resistance is the inability of the system to conduct electricity properly. One of the best-proven ways to compensate for noise and resistance is with proper grounding. Engine grounding has been used in the racing industry for years. The benefits have been proven and documented. The Custom Engine Grounding Kit allows for cleaner data transfer to the ECU. The result is more accurate measurements by the ECU and therefore more accurate performance, smoother idle and better acceleration. On carbureted Z's, it will help with all of the other electrical systems from the often dim headlights to the ignition system". -Quote from, Motorsport Auto MSA sells grounding kits for $80 70-78 Z's and 03-06 350Z's, but i don't know i'f their is a simalar kit for the 1980 Z? anyone know? Wonder if this is something that can be done on your own - if you just buy the wires and DIY? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunD Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 From what the pic's look like it is DIY however, the grounding kit is only for the engine bay. Meaning multiple thick gauge wires going from your motor to the chassis from multiple points. Take a look- http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP/12-4168 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilbertZ Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 Looks good. But doesn't include ZX models And there are no mounting screws included - not a deal breaker, but interesting. I like that it's color coded - would match great with some blue Taylor plug wires! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver280zx Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Lately my car has been having a sort of issue. My idiot lights ie: Fuel, Door, Brake, stay on when I start the car and while I'm driving. This is something that just recently started. I checked my belt and found that it was a little loose, tightened it up and the problem seemed ok, but I guess it wasn't the problem. Tonight on my way back from a friend's place, eventually my dash lights eventually got dim, my radio would no longer work and my fan motor stopped working. My headlights got really dim and everything. After a little while everything just suddenly lit up bright, the idiot lights went off, and my headunit and blower motor were working again. This seems like a symptom of a crappy alternator to me, I'll have to go get it tested. Can auto parts stores test your alternator in the car? Your problem sounds like the ignition acc relay, mine did the exact same thing for so long. Doe your tach, blinkers, radio, backup lights, wipers, blower, voltmeter, thermastat, and oilpressure guage not work? mine would work, then randomly stop, then start working again. The more i drove it the more often things would not work, till finnally nothing worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmyZ Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 hey ya'll...i saw a voltage stabilizer thingy on ebay for about 10 bucks. said it does a lot to help out the system. i dont know anything about it....anyone ever use one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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