Would this alternator work? 165amp

[big-phil]

this is for a jeep I'm not worried about the modifacation to mount it. But would it wire up?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/165-Amp-Alternator-for-Jeep-YJ-Wrangler-2-5L-4cyl_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33573QQihZ001QQitemZ110225186503QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[Evan Purple240zt]

In my experience, if you can mount it and figure out which wire is which it will work fine.

 

Evan

 

BTW, you will need to bypass any stock voltage regulators (not sure if your car has an external)

[ktm]

I am only seeing three wire connections. Unless you go one-wire, the Z has a 4 wire connection: Sense, Lamp, Battery and Ground. Also, the pulley is setup for a serpentine belt.

 

To be honest Phil, just do the GM alternator mod and pick up a 90 amp from Autozone. They come with a lifetime warranty and are only $90 if you have a core. If you do the bracket mod and decide to upgrade later to a Powermaster for instance, all you have to do is swap alternators.

[Six_Shooter]

Mounting that one looks fairly straight forward. Mounting tabs at 6 and 12 o'clock.

 

I usually use GM alternators for upgrades, as I know that they have internal regulators, and are easy to wire up. You can also find them in quite a few different mounting configurations, one of which is the 6 and 12 o'clock mounting tabs.

 

I get mine from a local builder here, SVA Power products. The guys that builds them is realistic about the overall output. He can get max amperage, and will do so, if you have another smaller alternator to keep up with idle speed charge.

 

I believe the newer Chryco alternators are also internally regulated, but I haven't had much experiance with them.

 

I would do some checking around, just to make sure that alternator is what the seller says it is.

[bjhines]

Ground is easy enough to change.

The chg and V-sense wires are easy to figure out with a volt-ohm meter.

 

One wire alternators have some disadvantages, especially in a street driven car with multiple electrical accessories and a need to run lights and other things while at idle.

 

Don't do a ONE-wire system. That is not acceptable for street use.

[Six_Shooter]

Ground is easy enough to change.

The chg and V-sense wires are easy to figure out with a volt-ohm meter.

 

One wire alternators have some disadvantages, especially in a street driven car with multiple electrical accessories and a need to run lights and other things while at idle.

 

Don't do a ONE-wire system. That is not acceptable for street use.

 

I think this is too blanket, as I know of a NUMBER of street cars with one-wire alternators and they charge just fine at idle.

 

I would assume here that maybe the pulley ratios were not correct, as in too large of an alternator pulley or too small of a crank pulley., or maybe a little of both.

 

I see far too many people blame "bad alternators" or low idle charge current on the alternator when it turns out that the alternator is just not spinning high enough to excite the regulator and actually charge the battery.

 

On an L series, as far as I know there isn't many options for crank pulley size, not something I've looked into, but also something I haven't seen mentioned, so if there are more choices than one or maybe two diameters, let me know. But this is lead up to where I know there are a lot of choices and that is the alternator pulley. Using a smaller alternator pulley will spin the armature at a higher RPM for the same crank RPM. The only draw back to this is at high crank RPM, might over spin the alternator, and put it out of a safe RPM range, this would have to be determined by the actual pulley ratio.

 

That being said, I do agree that it's not difficult to connect a conventional internally regulated alternator in place of the existing OEM externally regulated alternator, provided the correct tools and that includes wire diagrams.

[hughdogz]

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/31?osCsid=1a8c066c167c56fdbae298603eee4753

 

I bought two of the 105 amps (one for my 260 and one for my ZXT). I used to replace my Optima battery once a year. I've never had one fail yet with one of these babies.

 

They already have the correct bushing for the adjuster and the correct pulley.

 

Knowing you BigPhil, you would want the 120 amp model.

 

I know it is a little spendy, but it is totally plug-n-play!

 

HTH, -hughdogz

[bjhines]

I have a Moroso 5" V-groove Pulley in a metric size. I made a small spacer in the lathe to space the pulley properly. It is one-to-one on my track car.

 

I am using a late model 300ZX alternator I adapted to use on the L-engine.

 

1. The CHG light wire helps to exite the coils at low RPM.

2. The Voltage sensing wire keeps the voltage higher at the fuse panel.