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450+hp proj and I'm overwhelmed, advice


intuitdriver

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I am looking to make a 450hp drag car, and at the moment I want to see what I can do on budget so Im not looking for the greatest setup out there just fairly strong and LOTS of power. I am going into this expecting to break alot of stuff, but want to stay safe as well. Alright so far this is what I have and it is not that much, I won't go into the tiny details...

 

82zx GL with l38et, 83 t5 borgW

forged internals,

fully rebuilt balanced motor (spreen racing san antonio), rebuilt t3 (majestic turbo),

13lb flywheel with a crappy ACdelco OEM clutch for now

no emissions

no AC

Interior stripped

pretty much stock everything else.

 

Very soon upgrades:

Megasquirt fuel and spark

intercooler boost controller

electric fan

electric water pump(the jeffp CSR)

exhaust including DP - 2.75" mandrel bent straight pipe

solid rear (no idea what to go with for cheap and strong)

don't know if i should tub it with 450hp??

one of those super light uncomfortably hard plastic race seats

maybe a cage (dunno yet... ideas?)

upgrade to a gt35r turbo

bigger injectors (dunno what CC is appropriate yet)

better fuel pump (dunno what is hi press and cheap)

rising rate FPR

 

As with my last post I know all of this seems vague:hs: and probably a little "newbie", but this is a serious project of mine and I have been sneaking around on here for a couple years now and have read all the threads about solid rears, cages, injectors, fuel pumps, megasquirt (even though all that is another language to me), back halves, LSD, transmissions, diffs, etc. And I am actually building this car with a Z mechanic buddy of mine, but he is a little new to building track cars, and I have been a mechanic only long enough to know how much I don't know. I guess I am really trying hard to figure out what is appropriate for my application (450+hp turbo drag car) because this will be my first true drag car. Really appreciate the help guys.

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IMO you won't need a solid axle for that HP.

Thanks for the reply. My only concern is that right now I basically have a one wheel drive car. Going LSD can be done with certain 300zxt diffs and aftermarket LSDs, etc but it seems so much cheaper to go solid, and less breakage. Is that valid? Im kinda aiming for cheap and dirty numbers =)

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Guest 280ZForce

was your engine rebuilt to oem spec besides forged pistons? still a 2.8L? any head work? cam upgrades, etc? I know your on a "budget" but head work and a good cam will surely help you achieve your goal much easier.

 

you won't need a solid rear axle, you'd be surprised the abuse an open r200 can take. jnjdragracing was or still is using an open r200 on their blown v8 drag car that pops wheelies and runs mid-low 9s with over 700 hp.

 

to help achieve 450 whp, you will definitely bigger than 2.75" exhaust as not to retrict flow of especially a gt35r. try using a 3-3.5" from turbo back.

 

injectors you should be good using 550-570cc and get a pallnet fuel rail.

 

fuel pump... look into a walbro gsl392 I believe for your goal.

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was your engine rebuilt to oem spec besides forged pistons? still a 2.8L? any head work? cam upgrades, etc? I know your on a "budget" but head work and a good cam will surely help you achieve your goal much easier.

 

you won't need a solid rear axle, you'd be surprised the abuse an open r200 can take. jnjdragracing was or still is using an open r200 on their blown v8 drag car that pops wheelies and runs mid-low 9s with over 700 hp.

 

to help achieve 450 whp, you will definitely bigger than 2.75" exhaust as not to retrict flow of especially a gt35r. try using a 3-3.5" from turbo back.

 

injectors you should be good using 550-570cc and get a pallnet fuel rail.

 

fuel pump... look into a walbro gsl392 I believe for your goal.

As for the exhaust, I knew i was going to small :oops:

 

I have a pallnet right now for the stock barbed injectors, dunno if I upgrade to 550's if i can still use the rail, if not Ill definitely get another one from him, i hate the stock rail more than onions.

 

As for the rebuild, there was a mild port and polish, mainly to remove rough areas and casting marks other than that, machined the gasket surfaces, valve job, and forged internals

 

I was under the impression that the stock turbo cam was fairly good for the application...?

 

I could afford to go better than the r200 open, just not something too rich for my blood, what would you recommend if i wanted to go stronger and put the power down more evenly? Oh and I would prefer to keep my axels in one piece =)

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are you aware that some R-200 open diffs are 2 pinion and some ar four pinion? I am not 100% positive I fully understand the difference yet (i still havent reached a point where I can see a differential spinning and functioning in my mind, but its just because ive been too lazy) BUT I know it makes a HUGE difference in the strength of the unit. A welded, four pinion R-200 is "strong enough" to at least get you onto the track and started, and its a junkyarders special, so it barely matters how many of them you break.

 

just a thought.

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