'96 LT1 into '71 Z

[Redwear23]

I am looking for as much info on doing this swap as possible. I will admit that I do not have that much knowledge when it comes to engines and because of this I am going to have someone do the work for me. The JTR book, Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual, only talks about using older engines. I have also read the JTR book, Chevrolet TPi & TBI Engine Swapping, and it also talks about engines that pre date the one I am going to use. The Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual is a more in depth manual but if only it was about using the LT1. If anybody can point me in the right direction or offer any insight, I would appreciate it.

[Bartman]

What specific information are you after since your having someone else do the work for you? The LT1 is still an SBC so most of the information in the JTR manual still applies.

[Redwear23]

The guy doing the work for me isn't that familiar with this type of swap. I am wanting to get together a parts list and information I can get back to him with and also possibly help myself learn a little about in the process. You mentioned that the LT1 is a SBC, what does that mean and which manual would apply?

[Trevor]

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

[Bartman]

The guy doing the work for me isn't that familiar with this type of swap. I am wanting to get together a parts list and information I can get back to him with and also possibly help myself learn a little about in the process. You mentioned that the LT1 is a SBC, what does that mean and which manual would apply?

SBC = Small Block Chevrolet. Both of the JTR manuals apply with the Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual giving you the installation basics and the Chevrolet TPi & TBI Engine Swapping manual giving you more detailed information specific to issues such as wiring. The JTR conversion parts will work on your engine:

https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Datsun_Order.html

[Redwear23]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping that I could use the JTR parts. Is there any special insight that you learned from doing your swap that might not be in the manuals?

[Bartman]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping that I could use the JTR parts. Is there any special insight that you learned from doing your swap that might not be in the manuals?

Nothing major that I can think of off hand. If you run into problems you can probably find answers by searching this site. There are plenty of LT1 swaps completed by users here, so we've run into just about everything.

[deja]

There are several of us here that have done the LT1 swap. Most are much more experienced with this sort of thing than I was. The JTR manual is very helpful, read it well and do EVERYTHING they say even if you don't think you need to, trust me on this. If I did this you can do this. I had never really attempted anything like this before and got though it without too much difficulty. I changed the entire 280Z harness to a Z28 engine and chassis harness but you really don't need to do that. I started with a pretty messed up chassis harness so it was just easier to gut it. You will need to reprogram the LT1 computer to match your new setup. Things like EGR, emissions, VATS removal if you doing that, tire size and gear ratio will also need to be changed. I bought almost everything I needed for the engine install from JTR, his prices are very competitive and in many cases cheaper. I got the engine and tranny mount adapters, headers, driveshaft flange and radiator from JTR. Motor mounts you can get from the parts store. If you're going to run AC you'll need to move the compressor to the driver's side so you'll have to make a bracket or buy one like Batman and I did. You'll also need to gut the power steering pump or make a delete pulley (nobody makes one). Another tip, if you are going to change the water pump anyway get one for a Corvette, it has one less hose fitting you don't need in the Datsun setup. If you don't you'll need to plug that fitting. Custom exhaust is pretty much left up to you and your exhaust shop. You'll need an electric fuel pump capable of supplying a FI engine at 40psi and a tank with baffles and a return line. I used the Z28 fuel tank with the internal pump, but it was one of the more difficult parts of the project to get in the car. Fuel lines need to be at least 3/8" up and 5/16" return. I did no modifications to the engine wiring other than removing the stuff (don't need it in Georgia). I lengthened the knock sensor wiring and moved the knock sensor to the other side of the engine. You can mount it on the JTR passenger setback plate but I didn't do that. I also had to lengthened the O2 sensor wiring on the driver's side. I did not use the Datsun gauges or ignition switch so you'll have to get that information from the JTR books. It really wasn't that hard to get the engine/tranny mounted and running. What took me a year was all the "while you're at it" projects, LOL. If you need information about the LT1 http://shbox.com/page/index.html has a wealth of information, schematics and locations of stuff and GM part numbers. Its basically for a '95 Z28 but I have a '94 and not much changed. There are some references to the '96 too. I have a diary of my progress at http://www.dejavideo.net/280z8/transplant.html . It gets a little long winded at times, but it might be some help in some areas. At least you can see the mistakes I made and problems I had and how I got through them. Good luck, if you have any questions drop me a PM I am happy to help where I can.

[wheelman]

One question nobody has asked yet is what transmission are you using?

If you stick with the 4L60E or T56 the stock PCM harness that comes with the engine will connect to it. If you run a different transmission like I did (I'm running a T5) you'll need to figure out a way to provide the PCM with a signal for the vehicle speed sensor input. I tried to run without it but found the engine would regularly die when coasting down to stop, especially if I used the engine to slow the car.

If you search for LT1 swap threads you should find one where I describe why this happens so I won't go through it again (thats my way of encouraging you to use the search function).

One other thing nobody has mentioned is that the 96 LT1 is OBDII so make sure you account for that if you buy a program like TunerCat or LT1Edit.

 

Other than that most of the things you run into have been covered already in this thread.

 

wheelman

[Redwear23]

I am using a T56 transmission. What do you mean by a OBDII?

[Bartman]

I am using a T56 transmission. What do you mean by a OBDII?

OBDI and OBDII are two standards of On-Board Diagnostic Systems. Having OBDII will limit the amount of reprogramming that can be done to your system. Here's some references:

 

http://www.akmcables.com/obdii.htm

http://www.obdii.com/background.html

[Michael]

Questions of this type (and consequent answers) all seem to miss the two most critical problems in doing ANY type of swap:

 

1. Is there something fundamentally wrong with the recipient chassis? I mean, does your [presently] stock Z run well? What about rust? What about the condition of the suspension? Many swaps fail not because of the swap itself, but because the project morphs into a restoration along with the swap.

 

2. Is the donor engine itself in good shape? I don’t mean how to splice wiring harnesses or how to get the Z tachometer to work with the Chevy distributor. I mean things such as why are the cam lobes wiped, what’s that knocking sound coming from the oil sump, why is the oil pressure fluctuating, why are the carb fuel-bowl floats stuck, and so forth. The basic mechanics of my swap were done by professional; he did the roll cage, the sheet metal work, the exhaust, and so forth. But I was unlucky and ambitious with my engine - and have spent the past 8 years trying to “fix†the engine!

 

So my point is: good donor engine + good host chassis = successful swap, even if you are unfamiliar with the LT1. But questionable engine and/or questionable chassis = nightmare, even if you’re skilled and well-funded.