m4xwellmurd3r Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 from your description, you probably have a slightly bent valve. When the engine is on the intake stroke, the valve opens, but sticks on the bent portion, then when the engine goes onto its compression stroke, the piston hits the valve and it goes "Pop" back into place. DO NOT start that engine back up unless you want to destroy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted March 24, 2008 Administrators Share Posted March 24, 2008 Yes, the L-series is an interference engine. So when this valve “pops†back up, the cam lobe for that valve, (#2 exhaust), is pointing up or at some other point than being in contact with the rocker? Possibly the piston is pushing up enough on the valve as it comes to TDC that the spring can then take over and seat the valve? With the valve all the way up, is the top of it still lower than the rest of the other valves that are all the way up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rad280 Posted March 24, 2008 Author Share Posted March 24, 2008 The valve is up it is the same as the ones that are not compressed. I guess I will take the head off this really sucks. Any one have suggestions on what to do?Befor or After i take the head off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Yes, post viedo! Personally I'd like to see this frist hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Videos and pictures would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rad280 Posted March 25, 2008 Author Share Posted March 25, 2008 I think I am going to take the head off and look at the valves. What kind of valves should I get, or what company should I get them from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rad280 Posted March 25, 2008 Author Share Posted March 25, 2008 The good news is that I got the head off.The very bad news is that 2 head bolds broke. One is in the head and the other stuck in the block sticking out about a inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rad280 Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 Yikes, looks like you made the right call. Seems like a reabuild is in order. You must have the cam still engaged by the pics. Remove cam, keepers, springs and cycle the valve(s) in question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 Just guessing here,, that head gasket dose not look stock. You peeled it away and there seems to be very little residue. Some work might have been done to your rig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted March 26, 2008 Administrators Share Posted March 26, 2008 The only thing out of the ordinary that stands out in your pictures is the rust pitting on the #6 cylinder wall and of course the broken head bolt. The oily carbon in the chambers, etc is typical of any high mileage old engine with God only knows what sort of upkeep during its life. To remove that busted bolt that is protruding out of the block, heat up the block surrounding that bolt with a torch, then smack the top of the bolt like you are trying hammer it back into the block, smack it good and HARD! (Do NOT hit the block deck surface as that will dent/mar that surface.) Next immediately grab that bolt with a pair vice grips and rotate the bolt out of the block while everything is still hot. Or just take the block down to the local automotive machine shop and they will remove it for you. As for the one busted below the deck surface, you are better off taking the block to a machine shop and have them remove that bolt as they will take care in not destroying the threads and if the threads are damaged, they have the means to repair/replace that threaded hole to as good as new. All the other threaded holes in that particular block should also be dressed as well. If you are not into rebuilding that engine, you could try to source a used running engine in known good condition to drop in the car. Good luck, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 To remove that busted bolt that is protruding out of the block, heat up the block surrounding that bolt with a torch, then smack the top of the bolt like you are trying hammer it back into the block, smack it good and HARD! (Do NOT hit the block deck surface as that will dent/mar that surface.) Next immediately grab that bolt with a pair vice grips and rotate the bolt out of the block while everything is still hot. What I did was similar to this. You can find a nut that will fit on the head bolt, thread it on, and then fire up the MIG welder and do a sort of plug weld and weld the steel nut to the head bolt. Be sure to camp the ground to the nut or you will weld the head bolt into the block. Also turn the heat up so that you get good penetration into the head bolt as it is a little hard to weld to. The welding usually puts enough heat into the block to losen things up but if not then you can heat the block with a torch like BRAAP said and that will losen things enough for the bolt to come out. BTW... Make sure the block is stripped completely and clean...you don't want to get any spatter down in the oil pan. That would wreak havoc on the bottom end. I welded 3 head bolts to remove them and one was broken off at the surface of the block. The ones that stick up are easy peasy. Finding a new motor might be a better option though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 Snap on has, had a tool called a stud remover. Saw it in action, pretty cool. Looks kinda like channel locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 1rad280, Why don't you post a picture of the combustion chamber with the problematic valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rad280 Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 More bad news, after cleaning the head I noticed on cyclinder dome had pits and was missing metal between the valve seats this suck really bad any one have a head for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rad280 Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 Will a p90a head fit on my engine?If so what is the differents from it and mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 1.) Yes it will 2.) Search and thou shalt receive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted March 26, 2008 Administrators Share Posted March 26, 2008 Yes, a P-90 will work, though your compression ratio would be VERY low. I found your head. ’75-’76 head, (your car is ’75 so this is the same exact head, N-42 casting) Rebuilt ready to bolt on and at an INCREDIBLE price! Buy it if you can… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130600 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rad280 Posted March 27, 2008 Author Share Posted March 27, 2008 I think it has sold.What will lower compression do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 It'll make your car drive like a pig since it'll have WAY less power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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