Horatio Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 Can someone tell me how much of the "strap" i need to cut off in the trans tunnel to clear the T56. I busted off the "ears" but have read that the passenger side clearence is really tight. There's a "strap" that's about 1/2 inch off the trans tunnel that the ears were attached/welded to. I'll assume that I have to take some of this off as well? Can someone tell me how high I need to cut this off in the trans tunnel to mount the T56? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwwisnesky Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 I did not cut any of the "strap" on my 1978 280Z. I only ground the ears down flush with the strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 I only had to cut off the ears as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Me also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 That's good news! Looks like ya'll are running 280's. Don't suppose you know of any differences between the 240's and the 280's that may force me to cut the "strap" in my 240? Final fit with engine will tell but I don't have the drivetrain yet and want to have the underside ready to go. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Unless I'm mistaken, the JCI mount for T56 in 240Z is quite different than the 280Z, since the frame rails are no where near the same dimension....? Am I wrong on this one? Also, what is the 'strap' that you all are referring to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 I didn't cut off any strap on my 240Z. Only the ears. What Strap?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 240z2nv is correct, make sure you receive the mount for a 240 Z versus a 280 z. I have a 280 and I am using a 4L60 E, so I can not find a picture of a 240 tunnel to reference from. Take a look at EvilCs photo gallery, my members photo gallery and those who photo documented the LS1 or 2 install. Photos and PMs to several of the members here made getting the engine/tranny in the car easy. With the photos you will know if you have the right parts and did enough prep work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share Posted April 15, 2008 Here's a pic of what i'm talking about. I have only cut away the "ears" so far. Yeah, I was aware of the differences in the trans mounts between 240's and 280's. Still got the wrong one from JCI though. He fixed things pretty quick for me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 24TZ, I have a 77-280z and 4L60E-- The 240 and T56 Hybriders need to chime in, but I cut those ears down as close to the tunnel as I could cut and then grind them down. Primed and painted after cutting and grinding. The area the ears were welded to is still intact. before after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share Posted April 15, 2008 No grinding necessary for me. I cut the welds on the engine side of the "ears", used an air hammer to cut through the spot welds, then beat the $#%^ out of the "ears" with a 4lb sledge till they popped off. Worked pretty well! Here's what I have now. Question is whether or not I have to cut any of what the ears were attached to to fit the T56? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share Posted April 15, 2008 Dudeboy, Your engine bay looks nice and clean. Is that rattle can black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 The battery area is some high heat /rust proof rattle can stuff from Eastwood. But, the rest is sprayer !!! I could have prep a lot better, but it came out alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 The metal even in my 280 is then, I left the "meat" of what the ears were welded to in place, pounded were I thought I needed to pound. EvilC , 1tuffZ can probably tell you better than me because they have a 240/T56 set-up. But, where I thought I needed to pound was not a factor, it was more forward (for you the bell housing area in the trans tunnel) about 7-10 inches forward of were the ears were mounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 Dudeboy wrote EvilC , 1tuffZ can probably tell you better than me because they have a 240/T56 set-up. But, where I thought I needed to pound was not a factor, it was more forward (for you the bell housing area in the trans tunnel) about 7-10 inches forward of were the ears were mounted. Though I am neither of the above, I can confirm this: T56/240 interference is at the back of the bellhousing, top, a few (4-8?) inches aft of the firewall. This is for the JTR mount position. You'll have to determine the exact point upon trial install. Note that the sides of my tunnels were "persuaded" previously for a T-5 install, so you may need to do some work there as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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