vqpwrd240 Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Well, if any one has any ideas as to what happened please let me know. I was in 5th diving about 55 mph. It just suddenly lost all power and started to coast. I pulled over. Tried to start it up but it will only crank. Wil not start. No fluids were leaking from the car, no smoke, or funny smells other than a bit of the fuel smell. I also noticed the the battery was very hot and looked as if the fluid was coming out of it. The battery is a new Optima red top. Any help would be great. Thanks. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duder280z Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 If I had to guess by that description, I'd say a voltage regulator malfunction. Voltage goes out of control high, causes battery melt down and probably other electrical damage. Maybe burned up coil. Do 240's have fusable links? If it does, check those for signs of meltdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 How would I check to see if that is the problem? Any other possible causes? Thanks. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin240Z Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 If I had to guess by that description, I'd say a voltage regulator malfunction. Voltage goes out of control high, causes battery melt down and probably other electrical damage. Maybe burned up coil. Do 240's have fusable links? If it does, check those for signs of meltdown. no, does not have fuseable links. I was thinking alternator at first, but since it is cranking and not firing it shouldnt be an alt problem. If that were the case it probably wouldnt crank at all or you would hear the classic tired starter sound. SInce you said their was a fuel smell and it is cranking but not firing, I'd lean toward a fuel problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 How much fuel was in the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 16, 2008 Author Share Posted May 16, 2008 I put in about $30 dollars of fuel before driving it. I know I have to get the timing set too. The distributer was loose when I was checking under the hood. Other than behind the center console, where else are fuses that I can check? Thanks guys. Keep the info coming. I am about to go out to work on it now. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 16, 2008 Author Share Posted May 16, 2008 Well I replaced all the fuses that I cound from under the console. There are a few that I cannot since I don't know what amp they are. Anyone have a picture of the fuse box cover that show what the fuses are? I did an oil change and put in all new battery and groud cables under the hood. I can get the car started but it is not running well. I will be changeing plugs, wires, and the distributor/rotor as well. I will also buy a timing light to check the timing on Sunday. Where should the stock timing be? Well here is the other problem. I got the car started but once it is running, you can not shut it off. I can pull the key out but the car keeps running. The previous owner had told me about this but I have no idea how to fix it. Lastly, there is one wire in the center console that is getting really hot. Not sure what it is to. It is white with a red strip. I think it screws right into the fuse box. Any reason why it is getting so hot? Thanks again. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 19, 2008 Author Share Posted May 19, 2008 I can use some help guys. Please. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundmasterg Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 It sounds like your timing is way off since the distributor was loose. Maybe other things like carb mixture could be off too. If you're still using points, then the point gap and dwell could be messed up. The distributor shaft could be worn out, in which case a new distributor or electronic ignition module like Pertronix could help. Stock timing should be between 5 and 10 degrees BTDC from what I've been able to ascertain. The fact that you can pull your key out while the car is running means your ignition switch is worn out. You can have it retumbled for your key code at a local locksmith for around $80 or less, but you need the code off the doorlock cylinder to give to him. The white/red wire is the main wire that powers the fuse block. The way those fuse blocks were made, the power ended up going through rivets in the fuse block, and after all this time, they rust and oxidize, which increases resistance and causes the current draw to be more and more as time goes on. You may be able to clean up some of the contacts on the backside of the fuse block, but you may also have to replace the fuseblock with a new one. MSA sells one that uses modern blade fuses and mounts in the same spot. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 Thanks for the response. I have determined that the voltage regulator is faulty. It continuesly charges the battery. I will be replacing it. I have just finished a complete tune up today. I looked up the timing and it should be at 0. Anyways, changed points, plugs, wires, air filter, and cleaned up the fuse box. NOW THE CAR WON"T START! What is going on? Thanks in advance. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Timing should be around 10 degrees BTDC at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 Thanks. I cannot set the timing until I get it running. It cranks but will not start. Any ideas as to what happened from before the tune up to after? Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundmasterg Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 There is such a thing as static timing, and dynamic timing, and they are both different. If you had disassembled the engine, then you would be wanting to make sure the top and bottom halves of the engine are correctly timed to each other so that nothing will hit internally, and so everything is timed correctly for the engine to run right. This is where they are referring to setting the timing to 0, which is known as top dead center, or TDC. Since you haven't disassembled your engine, and it was assumed to be running moderately well before the issues, then we can assume that part of it is ok. If you loosen the adjustment bolt on the distributor, hook up a timing light, and get a helper, then you can crank the engine over while turning the distributor slightly while shining the timing light on the marks on the flywheel, and try to adjust to around 10 degrees before top dead center, also known as BTDC. It helps if you paint the timing marks on the flywheel beforehand. I used white model paint and painted the 0, 10, and 20 marks on mine. When the engine is cranking and the timing light is flashing, you should be able to see the marks and see where the engine is timed currently, and by moving the distributor, you should be able to get the car started, and then set the timing. I would make sure you set the point gap correctly so that at it's widest point as the engine turns over and the distributor shaft rotates, it is at .0018" to .0022" as they recommend in the book. It would help to have a dwell meter too as they are more accurate than just setting the point gap. Personally, if it was me, I'd switch over to an electronic ignition of some sort such as the E12-80 distributor from the later Z's, or put in a Pertronix unit in place of the points. I did this on mine and it runs a million times better than it did previously, and starts easier too. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 21, 2008 Author Share Posted May 21, 2008 I used the Chiltons manual for setting the point gap. It said to set it at .4 to .5 mm at the highest point. Would that be about the same as you stayed? I will double check that. I just bought all the stuff for a tune up so I really do not want to buy a new setup. I will have someone crank it while I check the timing later. Thanks Greg. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clsatt Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 that same thing happened to me. I had a hunk of crap come loose in the tank when I refueled and it blocked the line just before the filter. lost all power and had to coast onto the shoulder. try checking that out... chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundmasterg Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 I'm not sure about the metric vs the standard measurements, but if you set it to what the book says you should be ok. If your distributor shaft is worn down, then you will never get a good setting on the point gap or dwell, making the timing be off, and the car will run bad, unless you go to an electronic ignition setup like I mentioned, or go with a new distributor. Something to keep in mind for the future.... I would still suspect the timing being off and turn the distributor while cranking to get it started at least. It should start if you have fuel and spark. I am assuming you got the plug gap set correctly and you have all the plug wires plugged in all the way and on the correct terminals on the cap? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 21, 2008 Author Share Posted May 21, 2008 Just got home. I have doulbe check all the plug wires and connections already and the firing order. The plugs came gapped at .034 thousandths, I checked before installing. I will work on it now and see what happens. Lastly, I noticed that the owner before me have removed the fuel filter. I have one to put in but I need to know which line is which. The filter is the "L" shaped one made of plastic. Please let me know how is it hooked up. Thanks. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 I got the car started. Thanks to everyone. Have a question. Once I got it started, I noticed the white wire on the stater was smoking. It was the positive 8 gauge wire right where the battery is attached to the starter. Any ideas as to what is happening? I will be changing the voltage regulator once it arrives. Will that solve the problem? Thanks. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundmasterg Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Congratulations on getting it started. So messing around with the distributor while cranking did the trick? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vqpwrd240 Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 I had to put the point pretty close together to get it to fire. I believe that it is misfiring because there is a slight stumbling. I am still working on my voltage issue. I replaced the V.R. but my voltage is still increasing above 16 volts. My wires are heating up and the white power wire off the starter smokes after a minute or two. Ferhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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