Austin240Z

Agreed, I've dealt with hundreds of dead batteries, bad cells, bad alternators and the like. For a battery, especially a new battery, to be so messed up and so dead that it will no longer even register to a battery charger would require backwards flow that you'd get with a blow diode. I've also seen a bad voltage regulator do similar things to a battery, but typically it'll boil itself out, blows most of your fuses, and fries a lot of your bulbs in the process. Most Auto parts stores have free alternator testing, on the car and off it, that will be able to tell you if the diode is blown.

Here's some info from AtlanticZ: The different colors indicate different amperage Here's the link to info about upgrading from fusable links to Maxi fuses: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html I did this recently on my Z, pretty easy and straight forward. Hardest part is finding the fuse blocks, had to get mine at the audio section of walmart, none of the parts stores in town carry maxi fuse blocks anymore.

I dont have engine specs, but I do have chassis specs.

I saw one of these in person here in Austin a few months ago, really cool car. The tail lights are the only Civic parts on the car btw.

I am also curious to hear the results

Yes it is a 2+2, and it's got the MSA poly airdam for the 240Z plus the 240Z turn signals. The grill that's in that picture was just place holder chicken wire until I have a chance to relocate the headlights and make a new grill. That previous pic was taken a few months ago, the only other pictures I have right now are from last November and back. Which was back before I did the blacked out headlight covers and removed the stock turn signals. I like the way it looks with the blacked out headlight covers VS stock buckets or clear covers personally. I did have one other semi recent one, but was not specifically of the car by itself and it's not a very good picture. It's a little too dark outside to go take any pictures of it right now, but here's some older ones: *EDIT* for giggles, here's what it looked like when I got it: *END EDIT*

I've seen identical symptoms on a lot of cars. Including one case where someones kids put dirt and marbles in the tank. So, Same diagnosis here, however, every instance I've seen has been on tanks with an internal sock filter. Dirt would get stirred up and block up the sock, and once the car stopped, it had a chance to settle again. Usually this would happen in 10-15 minutes, only needed a minute or so before the car could start up again, but then would die out again 5-10 min after that. The S30's dont have an internal sock filter, but it could very well be that a big chunk of rust or dirt(most likely rust) got loosened up and is blocking the feed line that's inside the actual tank on the 260. If it were in the line or filter already..... odds are it would probably stay clogged or clog again within a few seconds to a minute. There's a chance some crud made it's way past the filter and got into the actual carbs, but I'd look more toward the tank for the problem first. I've had 2 Z's with super rusty tanks. Both of which did not allow any flow out of the tank itself. I've sold and used SeaFoam on dozens of different types of cars for a number of years. It wont affect the carbs themselves in a negative way. But it can stir up a lot of dirt and grime gremlins... I personally use the Brake booster line method rather than putting it in the tank 99% of the time mainly because I'm concerned with the oil/carbon build up in the intake manifold and combustion chamber. It's a lot more effective on the carbon build up that way. (sorta like the old water through the carb trick) S30 tanks are great in that they have a drain plug, I'd suggest getting a container, pullin the plug. See what comes out first off. Once it's empty, you can take the fuel level sender out and take a better look inside without having to drop the tank. That's of course if you're not sure that you actually want to drop the tank.

I've left my airdam unpainted on pretty much every Z I've had.

Masking tape will not save parts from accidental contact with a sander. O_o

I've seen two in person a few years back here in Austin. They're definitely interesting. Would love to see them being reproduced, but wouldnt hold my breath.

For steel, there is a very large machine, which has a punch in that shape, they just move the metal down the line and punch a hole. So I wouldnt be surprised if you could find something that shape, or you could just make a mold of a louvered hood I suppose.

Looks great!!! I just wish there was one for the 2+2

lol, thanks. It's also going to say "ZOMBIE" at the very front of the hood, I've just been lazy about the paint.

Few pictures of mine

Autozone's parts in general are really low quality, Have a few people I know who work there and come buy parts from me when they work on there cars. Talked to a few of them, and yeah, there isnt much they can do about it. Good info btw, I'll try to pass that along as well. In addition to issues with parts, there's also a TSB on the 240SX hydraulic clutch system. The front end of the car needs to be higher than the back, between a 30-40% angle to proper;y bleed the clutch. This isnt really a problem if you're working in your driveway with a jack, but from experience, I'll tell you that trying to bleed it on a lift when the car is level proved to be an hour long failure, until we checked the TSBs.

I've used the same clutch master cylinder on my 72 240z and my 77 280Z with no problem. HOWEVER I will say that I've been in the parts business for a number of years, and I try not to buy from AutoZone for two reasons. First, more than half of the S30 parts I have asked them for over the years have been completely wrong. So wrong in fact, in trying to find a backup/neutral safety switch on 240Z 4speed, the part they had listed was for a BW T5 transmission. The other reason is that the quality of there parts is terrible. So assuming you got the right part from autozone. When you installed the master cylinder, did you unscrew the piece that connects to the pedal to match the distance of your original one? That determines the amount of pedal travel to engage the clutch, and to me it sounds like the problem.

there should only be a total of 6 nuts per shock mount. Three are hidden behind the trim panels on both sides. Had to use a hammer to get mine to break loose after all the mounting hardware was off... keep in mind, they've probably never been removed before.

Since you're having a series of electrical problems, start with the source, the battery. If your battery is a year and a half to 3 years old, take it to the local parts house and they can check it for free. Bad batteries cause 50-75% of electrical problems (usually on newer cars though) and most people dont bother to have it checked. A battery with a dead cell will act like someone severed your battery connections intermittently, and can cause literally all the problems you have described. Also check the main cable connections at the battery, and where the attach to the starter and engine block. If they're rusty, broken or corroded, replace them. Once that is eliminated, check the alternator and voltage regulator connections. Just because the interior gauges show 14 volts, doesn't mean that's actually what you are getting. The S30 volt gauges aren't exactly reliable, especially after 30 years. (have a buddy who's gauges read 15-17 volts, but alternator puts out approx 14 when checked with the alternator tester) In addition, the fuseable links a very common source of problems, which it seems like you are already aware of. I had a fuseable link with a broken connector and the headlights stopped working, but running lights still worked. Fixed the connector and everything worked properly again. Just because they look ok, doesn't mean they are, however I would be surprised to see them all fail at once unless your alternator was putting out upwards of 15 volts. Your gauges are run off of the main harness rather than the ECU harness, so in my personal opinion, I think you either have a battery problem, an issue with a main power or ground cable, or Maybe the connections for the main harness under the passenger side of the dash.... but if you are able to get your main electrical power back, and the fuel system still isnt working, then you may have additional problems in the Fuel Injection side harness. The fuel pump and injectors run off a single relay, which the Bosch FI manual suggests checking in pretty much every diagnostic procedure, mine does not work, they are available from most parts stores for around $120, but since that's a lot of money and I hate wiring issues, I just dumped the FI entirely and went to a pair of round top SU's. Also check your ECU connection as I have noticed that on about 4 or 5 280Z's here from our Local Z club, the clips that hold the main ECU connection on have stretched slightly over the last 30 years causing a slightly loose connection resulting in a whole slew of problems. The most common problem being complete loss of (horse)power after reaching normal operating temperature on a hot texas summer day, this includes the vehicle stalling out completely and not being able to start back up until the connections have cooled down (usually 10-15 minutes)

wow, very nice piece of info Alan! Saving that to my archives.

Did some testing on mine, I didnt have a proper testing area, so didnt get to test them over 40 mph... but up to 40 mph with the Toyota 4 piston fronts, 280ZX master cylinder, and the 200sx caliper/280zx rear disc setup, the I was able to brake properly during hard cornering. I'm still not sure about anything over 40mph, or during "panic braking" but that setup seemed to work properly so far without a proportion valve. I still suggest finding a big open unpopulated parking lot and checking yours out very thoroughly. Good luck with your swap!

This is why an adjustable proportioning valve is suggested with the rear disc conversion. I've got the 4 piston toyota calipers up front, 15/16ths 280zx master cylinder on my 280 2+2, and I'm actually in the middle of installing the rear disc setup I used to have on my 240Z. (280zx rear rotors and 200sx calipers if i remember correctly) I have an adjustable proportioning valve on the shelf, so once the rear brakes are done, I'm going to a parking lot and see if she wants to spin. If she does, I'm going to be putting the valve in. But yeah, I definitely agree with testing out the brakes. The required pressure for a wheel cylinder to actuate the brakes vs. a caliper is very different.

Really? No comments on my bedlinered Z?