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Clutch won't engage....slave cylinder adjustable?

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Hey folks, as I said, this is just the first of MANY posts begging for help. Hopefully I won't make too much of a nuisance of myself.


As I said, I inherited this project from my dad and lots of things still need doing. It needs so many things, if I stop and think about it I'll never get it done so I'm trying to focus on one thing at at time. Now it's the clutch.


The clutch won't engage, but supposedly it would when my dad first did the swap but only when it was almost all the way down. The engine is a 60s era 350 chevy and the transmission is a more modern 5 speed out of a 85 camaro.


We bled the system the other day and nothing. He then said we could try and adjust a screw on the slave cylinder to get it to travel further and hopefully engage then.


Here's a pic of the slave cylinder from top and bottom.




Only see two bolts holding it together so is that adjuster accessible only when I remover the slave cylinder? I know my dad would know, but I only have access to his help on weekends and I want to do as much myself as I can.


Appreciate any help.

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Oh please no.....


Supposedly the slave cylinder is new. Also my dad had heard you were supposed to replace the stock master cylinder with a "bigger" model so he did, but then he read you were supposed to use an even bigger one. Not sure the exact one, but it's the size just smaller than what people recommend. Something about 5/8 vs 3/4 and I think he went with 5/8.


Could that have anything to do with it and is there any adjustment to the cable on the pedal?

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Slave cylinder is none adjustable. The master cylinder is. The suggested bore size I have seen here is 13/16 and the car has a 3/4. You'll have to crawl under the dash to see the adjusting rod between the pedal and the master cylinder. Don't remember exactly but you might have to loosen one or two nuts and then turn the rod or just turn the nuts and then re-tighten. I'm guessing the lock nuts are loose and they turned by themselves.


Another possibility is that the pressure plate and clutch disk are stuck. That sometimes happens when cars have been standing around for a year or two.

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That strap stays on permanently. It is supposed to be there.


This is the same issue I posted an answer to in another thread.

You need to pull the bellhousing and check ball stud height and fork position.

You state that the clutch won't engage. You really mean the opposite, the clutch won't release. It is perpetually engaged.


Here is my other post about this issue.


You mean it won't release... right.


That looks like plenty of movement to me. It only takes 1/2" at the TOB on the other end.


You could remove the slave and actuate the fork by hand and see if it is pressing on the TOB. You won't be able to disengage the diaphram spring by hand, but you could confirm the clearances.


A broken pivot/ball stud or a worn out fork and stud combination can leave too much slop in the system for the TOB to release the clutch.


With everything adjusted properly in the bellhousing...

The outer end of the fork should angle towards the front of the car by about 5-7 degrees. This is with hand pressure to remove any slop.


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