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rear diff disaster


Guest kevbob75

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Guest kevbob75

i have been runnin a welded rear end for quite some time and never had any problems with any car i have ever had it on.

 

i changed the fluid but i put the wrong weight gear oil in

not realizing what i did i drove it for a cool 5 minites and then the rear started making a really bad grinding noise.

i parked it for a while and came back a few days later and limped it to the shop

 

almost all the oil was gone and some pretty big metal chunks were in it

i am forced to buy a new diff now but i am wondering what caused all this in the first place as this would not happen again to anyone

 

and any recomendations on a new diff to buy and control arms while i'm at it

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Guest kevbob75

1975 280z w/stock rear

 

i have been runnin a welded rear end for quite some time and never had any problems with any car i have ever had it on.

 

i changed the fluid but i put the wrong weight gear oil in

not realizing what i did i drove it for a cool 5 minites and then the rear started making a really bad grinding noise.

i parked it for a while and came back a few days later and limped it to the shop

 

almost all the oil was gone and some pretty big metal chunks were in it

i am forced to buy a new diff now but i am wondering what caused all this in the first place as this would not happen again to anyone

 

and any recomendations on a new diff to buy and control arms while i'm at it

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sorry bout that i'm a rookie

75 280z

stock rear

i put 70 wieght but i think it takes 90 yes?

 

Was it an automatic or a manual car? The automatics had the weaker R180, manuals have the stronger R200 if I remember correctly.

 

I believe 80w-90 to be the specification if I remember correctly. Could the metal chunks be welds from the spider gears breaking off? 70 weighs doesn't seem THAT light.

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Guest kevbob75

any recomendations on another aftermarket diff to buy or should i go with a junkyard R200

 

and where can i find some nice control arms (tubular maybe)

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Arizonazcar.com

Modern-motorsports.com

Zraceproducts.com

 

All offer control arms, the second two are tubular steel. The first is billet 6061.

 

I would just go for a junkyard R200 if I were you (provided your car already has an R200, if it has an R180 it will require additional componentry to swap), or put a wanted ad out. If you want to go LSD now is probably the time also.

 

Alternatively you could find out what went wrong in the differential. It may be cheaper/better to start with fresh bearings and such.

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