mikeatrpi Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 For the first time in 4 years of ownership, my Z left me stranded. I couldn't put the car into gear, like the clutch wasn't disengaging. The pedal was a little wet at the shaft, so I did a parking lot clutch master cylinder replacement. I bled it and bench bled it several times, no air, clean fluid. The slave "does its thing" and actuates the lever. I adjusted the clutch almost as far out as it would go, at the pedal, excessively far in my opinion... Still, can't get the car into gear. I had the car towed home, 33 miles. So, what's next? What do I check? Car is an 82 280zx NA. I appreciate any advice you all might have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooks240z Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 sounds like the throw out bearing has gone out in the clutch " The slave "does its thing" and actuates the lever " which pushes the throw out bearing in to the clutch and releases it drop the trans and replace the bearing but it could also be that the fly wheel bolts have come loose which has happened to me before and i dropped the trans 3 times and changed the entire clutch before i noticed that the bolts had worked loose for having a bad harmonic balancer . check that first before you replace the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Even with the engine off, it still would not go into gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 With the engine off, it does go into gear. It doesn't seem as smooth as before, but, perhaps thats just my imagination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 With the engine off, it does go into gear. It doesn't seem as smooth as before, but, perhaps thats just my imagination.It's not your imagination. It could be a rougher engagement on the stick shift because you are "turning/nudging" the whole drivetrain to engage the synchro teeth if the clutch is engaged. Normally with your foot on the clutch, the stick will engage smoother, even when standing still. I am going to say possible broken/bent clutch fork, assuming the hydraulics are working correctly. The T/O bearing would have, or probably would have given you a warning before total failure. A bent or broken fork can fail silently. I drove my Z from Central Avenue, Yonkers to Putnam Valley, with no clutch pedal. 35 miles, mostly highway. Roll start and shift very, very carefully and infrequently, don't stop, roll to red lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooks240z Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 It's not your imagination. It could be a rougher engagement on the stick shift because you are "turning/nudging" the whole drivetrain to engage the synchro teeth if the clutch is engaged. Normally with your foot on the clutch, the stick will engage smoother, even when standing still. I am going to say possible broken/bent clutch fork, assuming the hydraulics are working correctly. The T/O bearing would have, or probably would have given you a warning before total failure. A bent or broken fork can fail silently. good point looks like the transmission needs to be dropped but its not to bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Blown clutch disc? Thats how mine went. Fortunately I was 1/4 mile from my house, I had some kid on a four wheeler push my rear bumper while I started the car in first, and just awkwardly worked my way home like the guy who couldnt get the rambler outta second gear. Picture the disc shattering, and a piece of material getting wedged in between the pressure plate and the remains of the clutch plate. Blammo, permanently engaged clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 What would be a warning with the throwout bearing? I really thought it was the clutch master cylinder - the rod was a little bit damp. As far as warnings - I did have a little bit of a chirp noise that I though was a leaky exhaust flange. Its difficult to explain without a picture. It would also grind a little going into 1st and 2nd early in the mornings, which cleared up after a few miles of driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 I will try to pull the trans this weekend. As long as I have it out, what kind of seals and other things should I rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 What would be a warning with the throwout bearing? I really thought it was the clutch master cylinder - the rod was a little bit damp. As far as warnings - I did have a little bit of a chirp noise that I though was a leaky exhaust flange. Its difficult to explain without a picture. It would also grind a little going into 1st and 2nd early in the mornings, which cleared up after a few miles of driving. A failing throwout bearing typically gets noisy everytime you press on the clutch pedal. It can sound like an old, metal, roller-skate wheel. (now I am dating myself). The wet rod at the cylinder is certainly a sign that you should rebuild or replace the hydraulics but you said that the slave was actuating fine. A small, slow, fluid leak won't cause your problem. Before you drop the trans, confirm that the slave cylinder moves through a full stroke, and returns, when the clutch is depressed and released. If it does, then your problem is downstream; somewhere in the fork or clutch throwout assembly inside the bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I will try to pull the trans this weekend. As long as I have it out, what kind of seals and other things should I rebuild? Order a trans rear seal, a front seal and gasket if your going for it. Usually they don't leak but why not replace them. While you're at it, I have a short shift kit for your trans, if you are interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil280zxt Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Alright Dave, cough up the information about the short shifter....is it really made to fit the 280zx? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 Update - got the transmission out yesterday. The clutch itself was broken. I found a piece of metal in the bellhousing, and then the spot where it went in clutch disc. So - what kind of clutch should I buy? I see Rockauto sells a centerforce and a beck arnley. Considering I'm planning to turbo this NA engine very soon, I'm leaning towards the centerforce. But, its over 2x the price of the beck arnley. Will the "BA" hold at 7lbs of boost - on an NA engine that's what, about 190 - 200 hp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil280zxt Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Mike, my stock 240mm clutch started slipping around 9 psi. This was a new (forgot the brand name) clutch with less then 3,000 milies on it and a resurfaced flywheel. I've since upgraded to a ACT street performance clutch and it seems to be holding fine. I would suggest upgrading to the 240mm flywheel and clutch now since you plan to move to the dark side soon. One thing I seem to find with my Z is that I tend to buy everything twice. The clutch is a good example. A cheap clutch the first time around and then a more expensive clutch later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Ouch, sorry to see that. Per chance did this happen while "dropping" the clutch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 Nope. I was driving to work nice and calm. Phil, ACT and a flywheel = $$$. I better do some shopping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 So I found this on EBay. 2+2 means its got the 240mm flywheel, right? Is "spec" a decent clutch brand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil280zxt Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 You are correct Mike, the turbos and 2+2 came with the bigger 240mm flywheel. I bought mine used from Roger at the Zbarn, resurfaced for $85. Search on the Spec clutches, if memory serves me right, they were considered one of the better brands. The Centerforce clutches seemed to get a real mix of good and bad experiences. The Ebay sale looks like a good deal with the flywheel already turned. Just do a little research on the clutch. 395 lbs of torque should be fine for a while LOL!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 hey, I called it! (cool points for me) Sucks about that, but at least its easy work to replace. bent shift forks are a different order of repair from a clutch disc replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Mike, how old was that clutch? The stuff on ebay looks like a good deal but research that brand of clutch. Also, I would have the flywheel checked even though he says it was turned. Peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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