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hood pins or not


Guest chevsun

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Guest chevsun

I have a set of hood pins I am considering using. After a summer of removing the JTR setup every time I wanted to make an internal distributor adjustment I am thinking this is a better option. I have just made many mods to my engine so I know tuning will take a while. Any reasons I might not want to do this? Or alternatives. Also I need a right front directional now due to carelessness(73 240)anyone? I should have the book on big chevy buildups concerning the 377 this week. I am hopeing to have some of my concerns about overheating addressed. As it looks right now I will be building the 377 for next winters installation.

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Guest Fast Frog

Do it!!

 

Mine are phoney. I drilled a hole close to edge of the hood so I'd miss the double sheeting of the hood. Then I cut the pin down so it would fit thru the hood and fastened it with a nut and washer.

 

For a real setup, some guys attach two "L" shaped brackets (one on each side) just below the top of the cowling. Then, they attach the pins in the appropriate manner to the top of the bracket. Then, drill the hood holes to match.

 

[This message has been edited by Fast Frog (edited April 04, 2001).]

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I did it on my 'glass hood. Instead of making new holes for the pines I simply had the bodyshop pull the stock hood bumpers out in back and put th epins in there. I used Sparco aluminum pins that don't have those goofy lanyards or crappy chrome to rust. When I bought those Sparco pins I also picked up some of the standard chrome "hooks" to replace the missing one's on the Mustang. The darned chrome ones are RUSTING on the 'Stang after sitting out over the Winter. The Sparco's cost more but look better and there's nothing to lose at a show - they can't be stolen. I'd do it over using the JTR bracket.... Do realize though that there's no inside th ecar latch to keep jerks from popping th ehood one night while you're sleeping. An alarm at the least would be a good idea if not other steps too.

 

Speaking of JTR latches - I'm not going to be using mine if anyone wants to buy it smile.gif

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For another way to handle this problem, you could always move the latch over to make the access easier. You have to mod teh hood as well, of course. It takes a bit of playing with the hood hinge adjustment to make it come down on both sides and meet the bumpers, but the distributor is not covered. Here's the info/pic URL from my site on it:

 

http://members.home.net/pparaska/Enginemount.htm

 

 

------------------

Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project

pparaska@home.com

Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

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Guest Anonymous

I used a locking hood pin thats nearly flush on the hood. It uses barrel key type locks and has a stainless scuff plate. Got them through JC whitney for like 18.00. They work, and lock OK. Quality is average, not the best, not the worst.

 

Lone

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Guest chevsun

So much for my "good deal". Ya gotta love this site though every question seems to get refined so that the last person doing the job gets the best info.

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I removed the JTR bracket and installed hood pins where the rubber stops were.I am not sorry I did it. I once had a hood release cable break on a 62 vette and i didn't think i was ever going to get my hood open.Do you just need a lens or the whole assy? I think i have an extra assy.if your interested.

Mike Dennis

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Has anyone thought of doing dual latches similar to a vette. One on each side. You could take and drill out the spot welds on two center latches and reweld them in on the sides. then mod the hood for the atachments... Just food for thought ???????

 

------------------

Remember it is only a piece of metal.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Anonymous

Dzus fasteners are used by a lot of racers to attach body panels that need to be easily removeable. They are a 1/4 turn, spring-loaded fastener that fits nearly flush with the body panel. I don't see any reason why they wouldn't work on a hood, but I've never installed them myself.

 

Here's their web site: http://www.dzus.com/default.html I'm sure you wouldn't have trouble finding a retailer by doing a web search. Good luck!

 

Jim

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I'm sure there's a "fobia" labeling those of us (myself included) that feel their hood release cable is going to break as the most inoportune time!

 

It happened to me once on a 73 Cutlass I had a 455 in. I had to break the bottom horizontal piece of the grille to obtain access to the hood latch bolts; once those were removed the hood popped up. You didnt notice the broken grille unless you knew it was there....& yes since I broke it I knew it was there/talk about an eye sore!

 

As far as hood pins...I've thought about it; havent really gone any furhter than thinking about it. Next time you find a 70-71 Olds 442 w/the W-45 Ram Air Hood...ask the owner to show you their hood pins & mounts as their pins are recessed into the hood & are reversed-in other words the point of the pin goes down into the bracket mount instead of the pin popping out above the hood...it creates a flush appearance. Year One sells the entire assembly in their Olds Catalogue-might give them a call for current prices.

 

Still you have the worry of someone breaking into your car at night.

 

What if you relocated your latch & used the pins....the pins would keep the hood in place & the relocated latch would keep the hood closed to those who dont need to be opening it(?).

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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  • 3 years later...
I'm sure there's a "fobia" labeling those of us (myself included) that feel their hood release cable is going to break as the most inoportune time!

 

It happened to me once on a 73 Cutlass I had a 455 in. I had to break the bottom horizontal piece of the grille to obtain access to the hood latch bolts; once those were removed the hood popped up. You didnt notice the broken grille unless you knew it was there....& yes since I broke it I knew it was there/talk about an eye sore!

 

As far as hood pins...I've thought about it; havent really gone any furhter than thinking about it. Next time you find a 70-71 Olds 442 w/the W-45 Ram Air Hood...ask the owner to show you their hood pins & mounts as their pins are recessed into the hood & are reversed-in other words the point of the pin goes down into the bracket mount instead of the pin popping out above the hood...it creates a flush appearance. Year One sells the entire assembly in their Olds Catalogue-might give them a call for current prices.

 

Still you have the worry of someone breaking into your car at night.

 

What if you relocated your latch & used the pins....the pins would keep the hood in place & the relocated latch would keep the hood closed to those who dont need to be opening it(?).

 

Kevin' date='

(Yea,Still an Inliner)[/quote']

 

 

That's a pretty good idea, I am going to look into doing that.

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I "mistake proofed" my hood latch by attaching a little cable to the same location that the stock hood latch cable goes to and routed it over and down below the vacuum booster. If the stock cable ever breaks, I can just reach up from underneath the car and access it. In addition, if you can weld on the nuts that hold the JTR latch assembly in place (essentially making a nut plate), it makes for a much quicker assembly/disassembly process.

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson, AZ

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