Gritz Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 Yah Gritz, you are right, I am doing exactly what you are talking about, and spending too much time and money doing my bushings, suspension,rear end, ect. when I should be concentrating on getting the thing running and drivable. I will Get to everything else in due time..I am thinking long trem though....Im thinking about rear ends...Should i foot the bill now and buy a $800 r200 or just use what i got now and enjoy the smell of burnt rubber and metal as the rear end explode...hummmmm......might take the ladder:twisted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted October 20, 2008 Author Share Posted October 20, 2008 Well i was working on the fuel system today and i got some good news and bad news...bad news is my fuel tank is garbage, good news is I'm Glad i took my dads advice and pulled the tank and found the problem before it found my fuel system....It's funny the L26 ran very well with this fuel tank. which is the reason i had no intension to pull it...Boy was i wrong, this is the rustiest gas tank i have ever seen..I has spots so rusty it looks as if you can poke right though i have no idea how it didn't leak.. Also i alway thought that this isn't the stock fuel tank, can anyone confirm my guess? What are some low cost alternatives for a gas tank? I thinking about going with a 10gal cell.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I am running a Summit racing plastic 12 gallon tank with sump and foam. I am running a bosch 044 pump with stainless fuel lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 I am running a Summit racing plastic 12 gallon tank with sump and foam. I am running a bosch 044 pump with stainless fuel lines. I thought your tank was 16gal??? Any way i had no other choice but to buy a fuel cell, cause I'm not paying $300 for a gas tank...I got a 12 gal cell sump/foam $54 from ebay:biggrin: I have a 255 walbro and will prolly run standard gas lines. Today i finished the front of the engine...New water pump(2jz) new timing belt, alum pulley set..etc looking like it's going to be a clean swap...Next week I'm going to work on the down pipe, and hopefully start the wiring.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted December 8, 2008 Author Share Posted December 8, 2008 Guys, need some help..I have a supra 1jzgte( i believe) my ecu and harness has 2 rows..the problem I'm having is the ecu pinout is not matching my harness on the 4th plug http://www.jzgte.com/images/tech/ jzecu_diagram.gif My harness 4th plug is missing a few wires , like (2) BATT, (3) M-REL..ETC My brother and I, manage to get spark and ignition and got the engine to hit..but were not sure why my fourth plug is missing the wires...We had to find the missing wires else where in the harness, and were not sure it's right... I was hoping i could just follow the pinout and hook up everything that need to be hooked up, and get rid of the other half of the harness(main plug) 1jz is going into a Nissan '74 260z.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 The pic on page 1 of this thread shows you have a manual ECU, diagram of pinout on jzgte.com is showing one of the pins on the 4th plug(plug T) as neutral start switch , so this is (probably) a diagram for an auto. If you have got the engine to start and run, don't worry about additional wires .-it works, don't fix it. I'm running an auto ECU with manual transmission, when it was rewired, probably eliminated about 20 wires, a lot from plug 4. can't do pic of what is not used, as 1) different ECU 2)wires still running to plug- disconnect was done by simple un-plug at auto end. 3)Beware! Toyota also changes colour codes of wires,regually! so be prepared for total chaos when trying to follow wire diagrams. first thing to do is get the part number of the ECU, (not visible in your pic) and identify the EXACT model car it was out of. (throttle body, and gearbox /shifter indicates it is early Mk3 Supra) looking at pin outs for other cars will only lead to total frustration.There are a heap of different ones out there for 1J engined cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted December 8, 2008 Author Share Posted December 8, 2008 The pic on page 1 of this thread shows you have a manual ECU, diagram of pinout on jzgte.com is showing one of the pins on the 4th plug(plug T) as neutral start switch , so this is (probably) a diagram for an auto.If you have got the engine to start and run, don't worry about additional wires .-it works, don't fix it. I'm running an auto ECU with manual transmission, when it was rewired, probably eliminated about 20 wires, a lot from plug 4. can't do pic of what is not used, as 1) different ECU 2)wires still running to plug- disconnect was done by simple un-plug at auto end. 3)Beware! Toyota also changes colour codes of wires,regually! so be prepared for total chaos when trying to follow wire diagrams. first thing to do is get the part number of the ECU, (not visible in your pic) and identify the EXACT model car it was out of. (throttle body, and gearbox /shifter indicates it is early Mk3 Supra) looking at pin outs for other cars will only lead to total frustration.There are a heap of different ones out there for 1J engined cars. thanks, for the info....i'll search a little more...where did you mount your ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 thanks, for the info....i'll search a little more...where did you mount your ecu? Once again, different model Toyota's different applications, The ECU in a Chaser is located in the centre console under the stereo, this gives enough harness to mount left side easy(remember,I'm right hand drive) behind the glovebox, probably just enough harness to make the same position on a LHD.I never tried as my steering is on that side. It was a tight fit up there, drilled a hole through from inside the wiper cavity to hold bracket to mount it, it was impossible to access, but as my dash had been reskinned by an idiot(previous owner)the box lid never fitted in the closed position anyway,I've since eliminated the glovebox, going to make up a plate /cover to fit where plastic box/insert went, maybe use the face to mount some gauges. Easy to get to at the moment, no cover, and will only have 4 screws when I fit a cover. Now the glovebox has gone, heaps of room in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 This weekend i hope to have her up and running...I still got to finish the fuel system and oil lines for the turbo...I think i might mount my ECU in pass kick panel..i might have to extend some wires, but thats ok..i plan to pull the dash and Rewire a lot of stuff..the previous owner did a lot of hacks and half a** wiring... Has anyone tried any of the ebay FPR on a 1jz? i have two im not using... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 nice! keep us updated, and make a video!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted January 4, 2009 Author Share Posted January 4, 2009 Well today my brother and i got my car up and running...and to my surprise the engine started the first try and ran pretty good...Im running an open down pipe right now..I still have to finish running all the wires neat for a clean install...Hell i didn't even have the o2 sensor pugged in, most of the vac lines are not hooked up..still ran fairly decent..im filling pretty good about the project now and where it's going..i just need more time to work on it.. In the coming weeks i need to finish the wiring and mount the ecu...have my drive shaft sent off, make a custom exhaust, weld up the custom intercooler pipes i made some time ago ( I'll take pics of them soon) Finish mounting the gas tank...and project s30 should be driveable..for under $4000... cost of car included i might add!!! So far that is....... Here is a crappy vid..enjoy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 very nice job. Its good to know that the motor is good. Can't wait to see it running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Thought i would do a little update..I'm about 90% done with the wiring..just trying to figure the charging system and all that jazz...also I'm trying to use the stock 260z fuel relay system on the 1jz harness, but thats not working out to well, so i might have to run the fuel wiring separete...the person that had this car before me really was a hack..i mean nothing is making sense with wiring..lol...It's kinda like he was thinking.."oh my horn doesn't work..i'll straight wire it.." "oh I'm not getting any voltage to the fuel pump...ill straight wire it.." ......lol So trying to do everything right is taking a little longer, but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel..so it's all good.. I bought a 30amp fan relay control kit from advance auto.. It seems pretty good it comes with the probe and eveything... The sensor can be adjusted to come on from 160 to 215 i believe...it was easy to wire up..paid $26 so i didn't expect much but i think it might work fairly well..As long as it used on the low speed (Taurus Fan) My drive shaft is at the machine shop getting modified..pretty good deal the shop gave me..only $40-$60.. should have that install this week.. I'll try to take more pics.... half the time i don't even have time to work on the car, let alone take nice detail pics like timbo does, my hats off to you bud, great job Oh crap, i still have to fab up an exhaust and modify me a throttle cable.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Got my drive shaft today looks pretty good & strong and cook's only charged me $50 bucks to modified it, can't beat that...well see if it will hold 400+whp.... Also thought i would take some pics of my exhaust pieces.. 3" n1 style muffler, 3" resonator and 3" flex joint, which is awesome looking piece.. Got my AEM 6 in 1 wide band in yesterday..got a deal on it..$189 shipped (new) SAFC 1 also pictured...these supporting mods should support my power goals....if not then I'm thing about maybe going with MapECU... My stock s30 drive shaft is modified with a Toyota yoke on the front..it works!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 looking nice Gritz! Yah its getting harder to find time to finish mine too. By the way, I like the Titan wheels on the Mighty Max, it looks sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted February 4, 2009 Author Share Posted February 4, 2009 looking nice Gritz! Yah its getting harder to find time to finish mine too. By the way, I like the Titan wheels on the Mighty Max, it looks sweet! Thanks!!! i paid $170 shipped from ebay for the titans..cheap way to have nice looking 18's...I wish it was that easy with the s30's...Im looking for two more supra MK II 14X8 wheels..man are they hard to find..you don't see many MK2's in the junkyards...I'll run those for a while..then ill look at going with 17's or 18" wheels... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 hey grits, i just noticed you crank bolt position or maybe its just the pics. the center looks to be dead on center position but the datsun engine and rear diff face is offset 3/4 to the passenger side? did you make sure it was positioned 3/4 towards the passenger side as factory positioned? this will make it straight from crank to tranny shaft through drive shaft to diff a dead on straight balanced position. my concern now is vibration issues while in motion! wait, stupid me, after looking at the other pics of when you first put the engine in, it looks like you already got it handled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gritz Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 hey grits, i just noticed you crank bolt position or maybe its just the pics. the center looks to be dead on center position but the datsun engine and rear diff face is offset 3/4 to the passenger side? did you make sure it was positioned 3/4 towards the passenger side as factory positioned? this will make it straight from crank to tranny shaft through drive shaft to diff a dead on straight balanced position. my concern now is vibration issues while in motion! wait, stupid me, after looking at the other pics of when you first put the engine in, it looks like you already got it handled. Yeah position is pretty much dead on...however i did almost do what you said when i first started with fitment...either way the engine shouldn't vibrate cause thats what u joints are for..aslong as the drive shaft is balanced shouldn't be a problem...i think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1jz Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 you'll be fine Gritz. I've seen trucks with way more driveshaft angle than you will ever have making huge power with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 hopefully. my lt1 was a little off more to the pass than suppose to and it kinda vibrated a bit. i dont know, some people get away and some dont. do the laser alignment with the lasers and that should give you a less chance with vibration issues. cant wait to pick up another z and a 2jz. just waiting for income tax. lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.