EverRude Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 I'm a moron. Had starter disconnected for troubleshooting the pump. After reconnecting I shoulda known to check starter wires first before assuming the worst. I accidently disconnected the small starter solendoid wire while hocking up the main battery wire. Duh. Fuel pump now working and motor spinning. Starter fluid in the intake it will fire off. So now it's the EFI system for sure. Back to the bible.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EverRude Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Ok so now 3 steps back. Decided to hook up the ground from that condensor at the coil. Took the wire from the ZX condensor bullet connector since I didn't have any to make a new wire. The ZX had it hooked to the distributor bolts so I tried to do the same. Went to loosen bolt. Turned twice no problem then snapped off. No warning and I wasn't twisting very hard. It's the adjustment bolt. I'm just going to drill it out and use a bolt and nut setup to fix it for now. But... To get room to drill out the bolt I removed the upper radiator hose. Alot of corrosion around the water neck on the block but still solid. It's all flakey and white as expected from corroding aluminum. What wasn't expected was the sand I found in the water neck. Sand! Like someone took a bunch of sand off the ground somewhere and just poured it into the neck. I can feel the thermostat still in place. If all goes well the car didn't run after that and the sand has just been sitting in the neck. I'll pull the lower hose and check for sand there. It'll be there if it circulated at all through the system. Now it raining again so I have to wait. Here's a tip. Never buy a car a guy retrieved from his divorced wife.... Did I mention yet that this was fun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EverRude Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Ok. Forgot to mention that as I continued to troubleshoot using the EFI bible I found the following problem. The Air Tempeture Sensor Ohm came in extremely low. Like it should be reading somehwere in the neighborhood of 1000 Ohms. Mine is reading 57.1 Ohms. I did the other checks. Like the Air Flow meter resistance checks and they came out fine. Did it several time. With my reading of 57.1 Ohms it would mean the air temp would like to be like 180 to 200 F... ouch. Could this bad sensor be part of my no starting problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 I do not think that the air temp sensor would cause a no-start issue, but I MAY be wrong. If I am not mistaken, unplugging it (introducing infinite resistance in place of low resistance) should at LEAST rule it out as the cause for no start. Are you certain you don't have an auto-ranging multimeter? Some meters only have the one switch position for resistance, and will automatically adjust the scale according to the measurement it receives. Just checking on that. The next step is to inspect the injectors to make sure they are firing. You can do this by either simply pulling a spark plug to check and see if it is soaked with fuel after cranking, or by listening to the injectors for a clicking sound to indicate operation while you are cranking. This is done by putting the tip of a large screwdriver at the base of the injector, and putting the butt of the handle against your ear. With a no-start, it is frequently easier to just check the spark plugs; too many other noises going on (plus you need the assistant at the key to listen with a screwdriver under the hood.) Can't believe the sand in the rad on the other car. Hopefully Karma bit her back on that one. Sounds like time to pull the thermostat and the heater core hoses, and flush that block with a garden hose hooked up to hot water, switching directions and entry ports about 546826105 times I am off to consult the bible myself, since you've reached the limits of my "off the top of my head" ability to advise One other thing I will mention now is to eyeball the quality of the spark coming out of the plugs. I've seen a perfectly assembled electronic ignition system on a Z-car before that had one crappy wire that we hadn't noticed yet, and it all tested right... but that crappy wire kept it from getting enough amperage into the coil to really provide adequate voltage for a blue spark out of the plug. I am not the ultimate source of information on troubleshooting these cars; FAR from it. What I am is talkative, fairly diversely experienced with different L motors, rather experienced with DDing and keeping a stock 75 up and running, and rather more willing than the average hybridZer to talk stock repair. What I am saying is, as helpful as I may be I AM just this guy.. you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EverRude Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 The sand was in the 75 Z. When I removed the lower hose chunks of white sludge came out. Like slimey soap balls. No sand though. I think I could flush it but I'm not going to bother. I managed to get more of a start but it didn't run. However that start was enough for me to decide it's time to do what I was thinking of doing in the first place. There was a loud knock on the bottom end. The PO wasn't lying about that. I'm swapping motors. I'll be installing the 81 ZX Turbo motor complete. Including doing the alternator upgrade since I need one anyways. I already have eveything but the driveshaft, motor mounts, and transmission crossmember disconnected or removed. Although not sure about the engine ground. Can't find one. My Mitchel manual mentions one but I don't see it. I'm used to seeing a copper braided strap on US muscle. No idea what this car would have if anything. I do need to know the best way and place to hook the chain to the motor for hoisting out the motor and tranny. I'll probably wait till tommorrow to actually do the pull. Meanwhile I be getting the ZX ready for pulling. Both cars are parked beside each other on the small slab in front of my shop. Too bad the Mustang is on a rottiserie and can't be moved. Would sure be nice to do all this in the wonderful shop I own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 The negative battery cable bolts directly to the bellhousing with one of the starter bolts, and the chassis is left to ground itself to the battery from that. Not sure how I read that the sand was in the ZX, oops.. still crappy. Make sure you investigate the "swap" to the internally regulated alternator, as all of the alteration must be done to the vehicle itself.. In stock configuration, both of the wires in the T-plug on the back of the alternator connect to the voltage regulator. Off the top of my head, I am not 100% on how you bridge the wires at the old regulator plug.. but IIRC you basically jumper one connector to another, and then run battery voltage to a third connector on the original voltage regulator plug. I think the end result is that alternator output voltage is seen at one plug on the T, and the other plug on the T gets battery voltage to indicate battery level. Are you going to swap the 75 to an automatic? I would HIGHLY recommend against that, but I can't honestly tell you that the auto is crap because I know next to nothing about it. I would just leave the stickshift in the 75 I can't, for the life of me, recall lifting points, either. All I can see when I picture the engines I have seen hoisted out of the Z-cars is a pair of appropriate "loops" on opposite corners of the firing deck of the engine... Check both motors to see if anything like that exists, because I can't believe that those loops are something thats just been sitting in the toolbox at our shop... I KNOW they aren't something like that, because I have seen them on other L engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 on my 78, for lifting, the front passenger side has a bracket bolted to the head to hook a hoist to. the other side doesn't have anything like that, but I assume you can bolt the hoist to the intake manifold bolt and be ok. but the lifting points aren't some sort of tool. it's a bracket that's already bolted to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 on my 78, for lifting, the front passenger side has a bracket bolted to the head to hook a hoist to. the other side doesn't have anything like that, but I assume you can bolt the hoist to the intake manifold bolt and be ok.but the lifting points aren't some sort of tool. it's a bracket that's already bolted to the engine. perfect, I had to be careful b/c I couldn't specifically recall where they were bolted to, stock... Any engine that goes IN to a car in my family, gets one of those brackets from the front, bolted to the back side of the head as well. You have two engines, so you should have two brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EverRude Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 Actually I don't. I noticed the bracket on the ZX but the Z doesn't have one. I'll fab something. No the Z currently has a 5 speed and I'm sticking with that. As far as the alternator goes. I followed the other links listed with the EFI bible. There's a guide posted there. Guys I appreciate all the help. Gonna let this post die and start updating the engine swap in the engine section. I'm sure I'll be asking a few more questions there and probably coming back here when I complete the swap but find it aint gonna run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 The white sluge chunks could be from a bars leak product. I pull the water pump from my 82 and it was 50% full of that crap. Yes I was the one to put it in my car, never again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetGlide07 Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Hey Man!!!!! If you need a running Z to compare to you are welcome to look at mine. I could come over sometime. I finally got mine running, still have a couple of things to fix: 1) Short in the ECU main plug, have to take apart and repair 2) Not charging the car, guessing it is the voltage regulater/charging relay, gonna swap one from my 77 and see if it changes. Found the short today during FAY, hehehe, gotta love and awning, anyway send me a pm or email if you need to see mine to trace wires and maybe we can work something out!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 If your oil pressure switch (which is internal to the oil sending unit) is not working or you have no oil pressure when starting the car, it will not allow power to the fuel pump and also not allow power to the injectors. In looking at the wire diagram for your car, the injectors will pull power from the fuel pump circuit but only if the oil pressure switch is detecting oil pressure. Check the oil pressure switch. It is part of the sending unit that drives the oil pressure guage. Its internal to the sender. I believe that if you have a good switch but no oil pressure, the car will start and then turn off. If the switch is bad, the car will not start. Just turn over. I would just replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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