S130Z Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 as the title says, she won't run with the cold start injector plugged in. even when the car is warm and i plug it in the car shuts off. its an 83 zx and i just cant figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Don't plug it in. Rev up the car abit see if it stumbles and pukes gas. With such a sudden death it might be a short in the injector. At least you live in a rather warm climate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 thats what ive been doing for the past month. it just baffled me for a bit. i guess its not that big o deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Come on where is your sense of adventure? Get that baby fixed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 the thermotime switch is probably busted if the cold start is kicking on when you plug it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Yea. Something's triggering the cold start system. Either that or the injector is stuck open, which is less likely I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 well i ran into a little problem today that is gonna set back my cold start problem for a little bit. i was driving home and my car started missfire-ing real bad, i couldnt let the rpms under 3k without it running like hell. it had good power 4k and up but it would stall out at idle. it was dark when i got home so i couldnt check anything out. im gonna run some tests on it tomarrow and see if i find a prob. i dont know if its the fact that my cam shaft has chunks taken out of the sides of the lobes or the gouges in the contact points of my distrib. cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 You might be correct, however, you have a fuel/electical problem before this problem. I would recromend starting with fuel/electrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 An old cap & rotor can really wreak havoc once they start going out. Get them changed, they're like $20. You have chunks missing from your camshaft???? How would that be good? Where did the missing peices go, into the engine? Those bits of metal could be foating around in your oiling system, and that's not good at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 ill take a pic of the lobes and post them up, its not lookin good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Interestingly enough when my ZXT had a crapped out CHTS and a dead O2 sensor driving the car was pretty crappy. On the freeway getting up to 65 was awful, but once I hit 65 and over my car ran beautifully. I think it had to do with the fact that it was hitting the point where the ECU would kick back to Open Loop and ignore all the sensors. This could be your problem, or something similar. How does the car run when it starts up from cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Good point duowing. The 280ZX ECU will kick out of closed look at above 2500RPM I believe. At least that's where it is on my 83' turbo ECU. I can tell because of how much vacuum I need in order to maintain a given speed on the freeway. 2400RPMs takes much more air than 2600, due to the leaner mixture in closed loop. There's also some other factors. The knock sensor. There's a cut off point that the ECU stops listening to it. So if it's got a bad connection maybe it's going off causing timing cut backs at the lower RPM range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 ill take a pic of the lobes and post them up, its not lookin good. Whoa looking forward to the pic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted July 18, 2008 Author Share Posted July 18, 2008 well i changed the cap and rotor, it still runs rough at idle and misses during free rev up to about 2200 instead of 3k like it used to, and what is CHTS? i just changed the cap and rotor and its dark and rainy so i havnt test drove it yet. it deffinitly sounds alot better though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted July 18, 2008 Author Share Posted July 18, 2008 Cylinder Head Tepmerature Sensor. i did my research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.