RH inner tie rods

[deja]

I managed to hit something huge the other day and now my car is pulling slightly to the right. So yesterday I took it to Kauffman Tire for a front end alignment. They told me my tie rods need replaced and doing an alignment would be a waste of money. WTF a different Kauffman Tire store did the alignment less than 4000 miles ago and didn't notice that, hmmmmmmmm. Anyway they could not locate the parts from their source. I have been searching on-line and have found nobody that has an inner RH side tie rod. Everyone had the LH side and the tie rid ends but not the inner RH side, including Black Dragon and Courtesy. What's up with that? Some searching here seems to indicate the same thing. Any ideas where I can get parts? I figured if I'm going in there I might as well replace everything.

[dsommer]

Get in the Zone...Auto Zone. They can order all the parts you'll need. L&R tie rod ends and ball joints.

 

right tire rod part # ES2109R

left tie rod

ES2110L

 

ball joint you'll need 2

FA1044

 

Normally you don't need to replace the inner ones did you bend it???

[deja]

I don't think I bent anything, the front spoiler and wheel took the major hit. It already has new ball joints so maybe its just the tie rod ends, that would be nice. Like you said I can get them local from any parts store. I guess I need to get under there a look closer at what all is really bad.

 

 

Get in the Zone...Auto Zone. They can order all the parts you'll need. L&R tie rod ends and ball joints.

 

right tire rod part # ES2109R

left tie rod

ES2110L

 

ball joint you'll need 2

FA1044

 

Normally you don't need to replace the inner ones did you bend it???

[zcarnut]

The reason that there is a difference in the left side tie rod (both inner and outer) is because one side had right-handed threads and the other side has left-hand threads (between the inner and outer tie rod). This is just tradition. It just makes for a convenient method of adjustment. Most (if not all) American cars built before 1980 had opposite threads on their tie rods. Hence, Nissan just copied this configuration.

 

However, with its metric threads, the left-hand threaded inner tie rod was only sourced by one aftermarket vendor, Moog. When their stock ran out in the mid 1990’s, your only choice was Nissan, and it sounds like their supply is gone as well.

 

The solution is easy: Just use a right-hand threaded inner (and outer) tie rod on both sides. The treads where the inner tie rod screws on to the rack are the same on either side.

 

Even Nissan themselves stopped using different threaded tie rods on the 280ZX's with rack and pinion, i.e., both the left and right sides of the ZX use right-handed threads.

[deja]

OH, so its only the threads where the tie rod end goes that are different?

So if I get 2 of these I'm good?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=48630-S30Z

 

The reason that there is a difference in the left side tie rod (both inner and outer) is because one side had right-handed threads and the other side has left-hand threads (between the inner and outer tie rod). This is just tradition. It just makes for a convenient method of adjustment. Most (if not all) American cars built before 1980 had opposite threads on their tie rods. Hence, Nissan just copied this configuration.

 

However, with its metric threads, the left-hand threaded inner tie rod was only sourced by one aftermarket vendor, Moog. When their stock ran out in the mid 1990’s, your only choice was Nissan, and it sounds like their supply is gone as well.

 

The solution is easy: Just use a right-hand threaded inner (and outer) tie rod on both sides. The treads where the inner tie rod screws on to the rack are the same on either side.

 

Even Nissan themselves stopped using different threaded tie rods on the 280ZX's with rack and pinion, i.e., both the left and right sides of the ZX use right-handed threads.

[zcarnut]

OH, so its only the threads where the tie rod end goes that are different?

So if I get 2 of these I'm good?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=48630-S30Z

 

Yes. However, with your total cost of over $275 you may want to consider getting a re-man rack:

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ280ZQQA1_CardoneQQRack_And_Pinion_AssemblyQQ19751978QQA1242603.html

 

Just make sure the re-man rack comes with the inner tie rods! Some do not. You can get outer tie rods from several aftermarket vendors.

[deja]

Good idea, my rack is probably original. Thanks for your input.

 

Yes. However, with your total cost of over $275 you may want to consider getting a re-man rack:

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ280ZQQA1_CardoneQQRack_And_Pinion_AssemblyQQ19751978QQA1242603.html

 

Just make sure the re-man rack comes with the inner tie rods! Some do not. You can get outer tie rods from several aftermarket vendors.

[Mike kZ]

OH, so its only the threads where the tie rod end goes that are different?

So if I get 2 of these I'm good?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=48630-S30Z

 

That's what I did, but I bought them local, and paid much less that Courtesy. I think around $90 ea.

I don't think the reman racks come with inner tie rods.

[deja]

Hey Mike, do you remember where you got them?

 

Dale

 

That's what I did, but I bought them local, and paid much less that Courtesy. I think around $90 ea.

I don't think the reman racks come with inner tie rods.

[Mike kZ]

Yeah, I got them at Gwinnett Place Nissan a couple of years ago.

[deja]

That dealer moved about 2 miles from my house, I'll run up there and see what they can do. Thanks.

 

Yeah, I got them at Gwinnett Place Nissan a couple of years ago.

[NZeder]

So to clear this up - if Courtesy Nissan and others only currently stock the LH inner this is the one with the right hand thread yes or no?

[deja]

Just to follow up on this:

 

I picked up a new rack with inner tie rods from Auto Warehouse in SC, some new poly rack mounts from reddat off EBay and two LH outer tie rods from Oreilly's Auto Parts. I needed to get one locking-nut to match the LH tie rod since my old rack still had the original reverse threaded one.

Getting the old rack out wasn't too tough. The balancer on the engine was a little tight but I was able to slide the rack toward the drivers side to get it out. Getting the new one in by myself was a bit of a challenge. The only hard part was getting the steering shaft inserted in the rack. In hindsight it might have been easier to remover the shaft at the coupler but once the rack was out that just wasn't going to happen. That was much easier to remove before I installed the engine! I finally figured out if I removed the rack mounting bushings I had enough room to slide the shaft into the rack. Then I installed the bushings. It took me a while to get the wheels reasonably straight so I could drive it to the alignment shop. Man what a difference this new rack makes. The inner tie rods on the old rack were shot, that was pretty obvious after the rack was out. There was so much play in these it was ridiculous. One of the rack boots was ripped as was one of the outer tie rod boots. Both rack mounts were rock hard but didn't show any signs of excessive ware. There were no grease fittings on the old tie rods, there is on the new Moog ones.The steering in now much easier and that 60 - 80 mph shimmy I have been unable to get rid of in finally gone.

Thanks to everyone for your advice. I never would have thought to use LH tie rods on both sides.

[theBrit]

I'm glad your re-man rack was better than what you had before.

I had a very different experience sending the rack back twice as it was noticeably notchy around center.

I erased from my memory where I got the rack, but it was the biggest most reputable vendor I thought I could find at the time. To their credit they happily sent replacements.

 

In the end I got a second hand rack from an automatic (I think they get an easier life) and was stunned - its perfect and I also got rid of a vague feeling at highway speed.

[deja]

The rack seems fine. But it seems I have the wrong bushings (see my post today). At least I hope thats all it is.

 

 

I'm glad your re-man rack was better than what you had before.

I had a very different experience sending the rack back twice as it was noticeably notchy around center.

I erased from my memory where I got the rack, but it was the biggest most reputable vendor I thought I could find at the time. To their credit they happily sent replacements.

 

In the end I got a second hand rack from an automatic (I think they get an easier life) and was stunned - its perfect and I also got rid of a vague feeling at highway speed.