dr_hunt Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 You mean the head bolts won't budge I assume. Yes an impact gun is the correct tool to remove those along with a 6 point impact socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 print out several copies of the bolt lay form out that I posted and carefully count/verify and check off EACH of the 17 bolt locations ....YES IM fully aware your 100% sure you got them all. but IVE seen more than one guy crack a head while trying to pry un a head with one bolt still in place!, and generally a couply good whacks with a rubber mallet on both sides of vthe head is all the force thats required to free a head from the block once all the bolts are removed and WHILE prying a head loose with a hammer handle in a port is not unheard of its looking for trouble to PRY any head loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse OBrien Posted August 17, 2008 Author Share Posted August 17, 2008 You mean the head bolts won't budge I assume. Yes an impact gun is the correct tool to remove those along with a 6 point impact socket. You assume correctly. Forgive me, I have a tendency to use the wrong terms when I really don't know what I'm talking about. I have a buddy with a nice snap-on electric impact gun that he'll lend to me for this project. I'm planning to get a compressor sometime down the line, so buying an electric impact gun doesn't make a whole lot of sense at this point (also, I don't have many other uses for it currently). print out several copies of the bolt lay form out that I posted and carefully count/verify and check off EACH of the 17 bolt locations ....YES IM fully aware your 100% sure you got them all. but IVE seen more than one guy crack a head while trying to pry un a head with one bolt still in place!, and generally a couply good whacks with a rubber mallet on both sides of vthe head is all the force thats required to free a head from the block once all the bolts are removedand WHILE prying a head loose with a hammer handle in a port is not unheard of its looking for trouble to PRY any head loose I don't have a printer, but I drew up a couple copies. Just so we're clear: you're saying that a torch is a bad idea for loosening the head bolts? I was going to heat them a little (I've had good results heating stuck bolts before to loosen them up) then impact wrench them. I've removed two sets of heads so far (from the 327 that didn't pan out and the 350 that's going to be the block for this build) but these heads seem to be on much tighter. I didn't have any kind of problems with the others, I just yanked on a ratchet and they came loose (some took more persuasion than others, but they all came off by hand). I'm also wondering how much these might be worth. The casting # says they're from a 68-69 High Output Corvette motor, so maybe it'd be better to try to find a collector/restorer to sell them to and get some nice shiny new heads (or an LT1 or LSX). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 carefully re check EACH of the 17 bolt locations and find the bolt that still stuck,yeah! an impact air ratchet will generally work as will a 24" breaker bar, and sears sells sockets designed to remove rounded off bolts if THATs a problem and heating a bolt is rarely going to work on cylinder heads simply because the head of the bolt your heating is a long way from the threaded area on the bolts and most of the heats transfered to the cylinder head long before the threads get hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z48LT-1 Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Hah. I missed the point that the head bolts were what were in the way, not stuck heads. Duh. I'll second Grumpy's recommendation for a 24" breaker bar (and the 6 point socket). Good luck. Cheers -- Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 I just hope the previous installer didn't use loctite on the headbolts. I worked on an old Toyota 4cyl. once long ago, yes the guy used loctite on the headbolts and wondered why they wouldn't come off easily! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Especially if you are running a manual trans, but even with an auto, I'd strongly suggest running a double-pumper carb. Much better throttle response on a light car, and if you train your foot, you know WHEN the secondaries open up and can save on gas - with the vacuum secondaries there's no telling.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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