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Non JTR Trans Mount


Tim240z

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A couple of guys had asked to see the trans mounts I made up. I decided not to use the JTR one, if for no other reason than feeling that if I didn't make it myself, it was a copout, nothing wrong with the JTR unit icon_rolleyes.gif .

If you want to see it mounted in place:see here

Tim

Thanks Andrew, this worked:

Trans+Mount+in+place.jpg?bczDLJ8A8ggQ1ICo

 

 

Trans+Mount.jpg?bczDLJ8AlUdGueEP

 

[ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Tim240Z ]

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Hey, that looks pretty beefy. Lots of room for exhaust too. I'm also looking at a similar kind of mount arrangment - up into the tunnel instead of bolted to the floor.

 

What kind of trans is that - 700R? Which tail shaft housing are you using?

 

[Edit: Nevermind, I just saw you're other post alluding to the fact that you've got a 200R.]

 

[ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: jeromio ]

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Tim, you just described my tool kit for fabbing things. Other than files, a dremel, vice grips, hammers!, and a vice and a bunch of tubing and steel plate scrap, that's exactly how I go about making brackets and stuff.

 

Love to have a drill press, cut off saw, plasma torch, oxy-acet kit, TIG setup, band saw, mill, lathe... You get the idea icon_biggrin.gif. Money and room dictate that I don't have them!

 

But I learned long ago what hand tools do for you. They give you a real sense of accomplishment when you're done. Articles on John Buttera did that for me.

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"Ross,

One day when I'm big, I'll buy a drill press, oxy acet torch, lathe, cut off wheel etc., but for now all I have is a hand drill, wire feed welder and 4" grinder"

 

Tim, did you cut that plate etc with your grinder? You have more patience than I or better zip disks. I bought a $13 cutoff (air) tool from harbour freight I've been v. happy with. So what's a decent wirefeed to buy? I love making stuff and not having a welder has held that back icon_sad.gif Something with decent capability but naturally of an attractive price? I'd love to seam weld some portions on my ZX and lots of other parts..

thanks

 

[ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

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Ross,

Yes I cut it with my little Makita grinder with a 4"cutting disk. That lil' ol grinder has been such a pleasant work horse.

I bought my welder from Harbor freight about 2 years ago. It's a Chicago Electric 230volt gas/gasless unit. I bought a factory reconditioned unit (about $300 or so). I have been very happy with it (except very thin material, cannot adjust it low enough to prevent blow through, so it's very slow going).Anything thicker than 20 gauge is fine. When I was welding in the new chassis legs and using max amps, the wire feed quit working. I overheated the IC board. This is where it gets interesting:

NO-ONE wanted to even look at this thing (off brand, made in Italy).So not knowing what was wrong, I ordered a motor and IC board for the wire feed from Harbor Freight. Installed the IC and all is well.

Anyway, long story shorter...I'm happy with the unit, and as long as parts remain available it's OK. If you can afford it, go with a name brand like Lincoln or Hobart just for the warm and fuzzy feeling that if it goes wrong, someone locally can repair it, but like I said I have ZERO complaints on my el' cheapo welder.

Tim

....sorry to ramble on icon_rolleyes.gif

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Ross,

I don't really know about the amperage ranges. Usually the specs on the welder will give range of material thickness welding ability. IMO if one was going to weld material thinner than 20 gauge, then a oxyAcetylene torch would be better. The mig welders that can weld the very thin stuff (22-25 gauge) are usually VERY expensive (like $1500+). Since it is rare that I will weld even 20gauge, it's a waste.

The only significant advantage to having the shield gas (argon etc) instead of flux core, is the lack of 'slag' on the weld which needs to be chipped off. That's why I have never bothered getting a bottle of argon. Although, with shield gas and aluminum wire, my welder can weld ally, which is cool. I know that's an art in of itself, but that's my next schooling experience...I'd like to make up a custom airbox for the carb. out of ally, so....

Tim

This is what mine looks like, but doesn't have the spot weld timer

This has the same options as mine (&price), but no picture

 

[ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Tim240Z ]

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Tim,

There is a little secret to posting yahoo photo's. Yahoo and other photo host like to encrypt your own pictures to make it harder to post those images from other hosts. But alas, it can be done (right click on the pictures in Yahoo for the Photo's "real" properties)

 

Trans+Mount.jpg?bc2SH17A5EYVueEP

 

Trans+Mount+in+place.jpg?bcSaH17ANLfL1ICo

 

Almost got it Tim,

Some times they (meaning Yahoo) actually splits up the name in the proerties menu. The name is listed in the top of the menu, but the address is shown below. Those Sneaky Son's of B*#$^es!

 

[ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Andrew Bayley ]

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I have had a Lincoln for about 10 years now. Must've run at least 2 miles of wire thru it by now.

 

As to the drill press thing - if ever you do get one, make sure you get one that can turn really slowly. Most of them that you find at Sears and Home Depot are meant for woodworking and spin too fast for metalworking. My friend gave me his Delta benchtop and it just eats up the drill bits.

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"As to the drill press thing - if ever you do get one, make sure you get one that can turn really slowly. Most of them that you find at Sears and Home Depot are meant for woodworking and spin too fast for metalworking. My friend gave me his Delta benchtop and it just eats up the drill bits."

Yup, I've used one with an extensive speed chart on it, material dependent. You can also use a machining 'lube' (like a tube of jewellers rouge) that does wonders on the drill bit life and cutting speed. I've found a specific temp. at which a friends press would cut very well with minimal to no where on my cobalt bits, with the 'rouge' on it.

 

thanks for the wirefeed info.

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"]Hey, that looks pretty beefy. Lots of room for exhaust too. I'm also looking at a similar kind of mount arrangment - up into the tunnel instead of bolted to the floor."

 

I have one similar to that pictured, not as beefy or near as nice though (1/4" plate, ends bent up same as pic to go up in tunnel, bolts pass thru my tunnel ~10" below my shiftern/console).

 

I'm making a new one (or using a Z JTR one I came across) to go across the floor....I want it to be a LOT easier to drop/lower my trans...I'll either section the flat one so a centre section unbolts or have the top nuts welded into my floor/sole plates so I can just unbolt from underneath. Not as much a factor with sticks likely, but I've wanted it to be easier to yank my 700 in the car or even just lower it for governor changes etc.

 

PS if I could weld or fabricate half as good as Tim, I'd be making it all myself too

icon_eek.gif , now where can I fit a welder.....torch...drillpress...great stuff Tim icon_smile.gif

 

[ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

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Ross,

One day when I'm big, I'll buy a drill press, oxy acet torch, lathe, cut off wheel etc., but for now all I have is a hand drill, wire feed welder and 4" grinder. I'm sure that with the right equipment I could do this stuff much quicer and neater (it took me the better part of a day just to finish this sodding trans mount) icon_mad.gif

But that's half the fun, or so I keep telling myself icon_rolleyes.gif

Tim

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I have had good luck with Homier Distributing www.homier.com on various tools. They set up a big tent around here about once a year and sell out of it. Most of what I have bought has been small stuff, but I bought a remanufactured 12" Dewalt miter saw a couple years ago for $239 (at the time, they were $399 at Lowes) and have not had any problems with it. A lot of their power tools is rebuilt stuff, but since I am not a professional woodworker/mechanic it is fine for me.

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quote:

Quote from Pete:

Tim, you just described my tool kit for fabbing things. Other than files, a dremel, vice grips, hammers!, and a vice and a bunch of tubing and steel plate scrap, that's exactly how I go about making brackets and stuff.

Pete, how utilitarian are those little Dremel jobbies? I have a pneumatic die grinder, with a bit for slotting holes etc, but it really sucks air and the compressor has a hard time keeping up. I've wondering about those dremels (many a late night watching infomercial icon_rolleyes.gif ).Can they be used for head porting?

Tim

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Tim, the dremel is the die grinder's little, little sister. Not really good for too much. I use it where I should be using a die grinder most of the time. I did use it the other night to enlarge a bearing tab slot in a con rod cap. That was o.k.

 

Verdict: My next tool purchase is a die grinder.

 

BTW, don't the 110V MIG's usually have better performance on lower voltages for the thin (20/22 gage) stuff? My little Daytona Mini MIG is what I used to do floors. Worked pretty well, even doing but welds from the 18 gage new floor metal to the 22 gage OE stuff. Man, that OE stuff is like paper.

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Guest Anonymous

I bought some vises from a place called Cummins Tools. Actually it was a travelling tool truck -- they rent out a local warehouse or hall and unload samples of all their stuff and you go through and make a list of the things you want. You go to the register and pay for it and go outside and they haul it all off the truck for you.

The vises I bought were $20 and $30, and seem very stout. They also had some name brand power tools and some that were 'Cummins' brand. Lots of extremely inexpensive stuff. Most looked to be of decent quality, but the reeeeally cheap hand tools seemed a little cheap.

 

www.cumminstools.com

 

[ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: dewzenol ]

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