JustinOlson Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Well I'm working on taking my car down to bare metal. Last night I started stripping the paint off of the Datsun. I ended up using Mar-Hyde Aircraft Coating Remover 3711. It works pretty well at stripping the paint away from the body. Takes it right down to metal. I ran out of the spray. I think 5-6 cans could do the whole car. I went through 3 cans so far. I started wire wheeling the areas where the paint had flaked and bubbled up. I'm glad I'm stripping down to bare metal so that I can find the rust and bondo. I ended up running into a good amount of bondo on the drivers side fender. Hopefully not to much elsewhere. I'm worried that wire wheeling the car will remove the base metal and leave me with deep scores. Is there a better way to remove the paint/bondo/primer that the chemical stripper isn't removing? Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Get a gallon of the stripper not the cans, your going to be there forever with those and loose money quick. As for the wire wheel if you keep it moving there isnt a problem. Yes if you hold it in one spot for a while it will start removing material but youd have to try to do it. Also what kind of wheels are those? Are they the prime wheels, if so would you sell them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Is the stuff you are using called Tal-Strip? If so, I use that stuff all the time to get coatings/paint off of things. What I've found works best is to liberally spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes and then hose it off...it doesnt get everything off but it gets a lot of it usually. As far as removing paint without using a wirewheel, I use these 3M discs which you can usually find at any auto parts/hardware store. One is more abrasive than the other but both are good to have. http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(uj1n2y45an5atzvhiugs3wzi)/productdetails.aspx?sku=2062339&source=GoogleBase http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1287725&cp=&sr=1&kw=3m+rust+stripper&origkw=3m+rust+stripper&parentPage=search&searchId=36693771254 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Yeah washing it off helps too. It stops the reaction and also removed the paint. I used a pressure washer and it worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 The wheels are 15" X 7". I'm not sure how much they are worth, but I'd be willing to sell them. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Those 3M pads, or the Walter FX surface pads are probable the best solution... after chem-stripping or on their own. The spongy, flexible construction is to help prevent loading up of the surface with waste... and they don't over scratch your metal if used properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Here is what i used. You can get them from Lowes. It worked great and doesnt do any damage to the metal. Its so much faster than using a stripper. I found that when using a stripper that you still had to go over it with the pads to get it all off so why not just do it once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 What brand is that? I've been searching online at lowes and home depot. Just trying to get the right thing instead of spending a bunch of time browsing. Here is what I found at home depot. Is this similiar? http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100553289&N=10000003+90054+524405 Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 Or This from Lowes? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=251036-1069-3876&lpage=none Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 the home depot page didnt work for me and the one from lowes works but is courser than the ones i used and put more scratches in it. It also doesnt have replacable disks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Go to a welding supply and get the Walter version. It has more meat, and doesn't load up as much as the 3M pads. Remove paint and primer until you can just see metal through a haze of the paint or primer, then switch to whatever fine abrasive you want to finish with. http://www.industrialtool.com/categories.asp?cat=111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 After getting it down to bare metal can I just spray a sealer on it? I'd like to have the bare metal look to it for a little while until I do the proper paint job. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 A sealer is opaque, not sure how you intend to keep the bare metal look? That said I'd spray one coat of epoxy. When its time to do a proper paint job you can scuff it and put bondo on top. Then scuff the entire car and spray one more coat of epoxy, some high build primer, then paint. Sounds easy, doesn't it? I like PPG Omni MP170 epoxy. You'd need two quarts epoxy - that's 3 quarts mixed with its companion part. Its inexpensive too... I think a gallon is $100 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 I've been reading about street rods and such. Supposable WD-40 and scotch brite keeps the rust down Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 I wasn't able to get to lowes. I ended up at the home depot right next to my house and I got the rapid strip disc: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100553289&N=10000003+90054+524405 It worked very well! I worked on the car for ~20-30 minutes. I realize now with all the dust this creates, its pretty stupid to do this work without a respirator. I'm going to pick one up tomorrow and get back to work. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboboost Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Make sure you're wearing a dust mask. I find after doing any significant amount of bodywork over a small period of time, my lungs get really sore if I'm not wearing a mask - I can't even imagine what it's doing in the long run. Car is turning out very nice though man. Regards, Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 I found this good link. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-stripping.htm Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grenade300 Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 I found this good link. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-stripping.htm Justin YES, I am using those wheels to stip my car. They are awesome, and if used correctly, they will not gouge the metal. BTW, I made a similar mistake as you once by only wearing a dust mask. I was horking up multi colored lugies the next day. You need to be wearing a full respirator. I know several older style paints used lead. I don't think the Datsun had lead in its paint, but don't chance it. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 Can I have the car sprayed with a clear coat once I have it down to bare metal? I wouldn't expect it to hold up for years, but I think it would be very cool in the short term until I get a nice paint job. Would a clear coat protect the panels from rust well enough? Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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