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SIGh k time to find somehting that will live under the beast


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Well after turning a best of 9.72@142.9 with the stock 280 Z halfshafts and probly 30 + 9 second passes ..

 

They are toast..

 

I put a 26.5 x 9.5 slick on it instead of the 24.9 x8.5 i had and i upped the nos shot to a 325 from 225..

 

BOOM soon as I left the line both half shafts blew the inside u joints to shit..

 

I need somthing stronger.. I fully believe the r-200 strong enough to take 750+ rear wheen horses when set up right with a automatic with no transbrake..

 

however the half shafts just snap the ujoints now the instant i blast them with 850 foot pounds of torque from the bottle ..

 

How strong are the CV shafts? I see that scoties GNZ broke a couple .. so it would seem to me they are not even as strong as a properly setup stock half shaft if the u joint angle is kept in check ..

 

I am desperately seeking something that will live under about 900 horses and 850 torque..

 

I DO NOT want to stick a solid axle in it..

 

the r230 is looking good str wise but cost a ton and needs a ton of custom fabing done and i dunno how strong the mounts some people have made for them are..

 

SOMEONE HELP ME

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I experimented with VW bus (and one Porshe) CV joints early on before narrowing my choice down to the Datsun CV joints. What I found encouraging was they were narrow, and a simple adapter plate would be all that is needed to bolt these joints up. The bug axle (don't know their strength) is very close to needed length, but I was focused on shortened Porshe axles. Keep in mind that even with the Datsun Turbo CV halfshafts, the stub axles may then become the weakest link (tried to say those last works fast)

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The CV shafts from the Q45 (R230) are very similar to the Porsche units (same spline etc) and there was a post about some very high HP Q45s using the standard rear setup without issues. These alco hava bolt up flange which are very easy to adapt to the stock Datsun hubs.

Tim

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The CV shafts from the Q45 (R230) are very similar to the Porsche units (same spline etc) and there was a post about some very high HP Q45s using the standard rear setup without issues. These alco hava bolt up flange which are very easy to adapt to the stock Datsun hubs.

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

I am fully aware the cv half shafts are strong enough on a q-45 rear and the ring and pinion because they take 900 horses in modified 300zs

 

BUT here is the problem all the mounts people are useing adapt the front of a r-230 bolt to the limiter strap bolt holes in the front..

 

with 900 horses slicks and a hard launch it would only be a matter of time before i ripped the soft sheetmetal that those little things are tack welded to ..

 

I know scoties gnz has turbo half shafts but he has broken a couple runign only 11s..

 

I have a year of trouble free high NINES with my half shafts it was simply the added power of the 325 shot and the taller tire wich makes them take more force on launch that put me over the limit..

 

I am desperately trying to keep it looking like a stock rear end setup as i street race this car often and the sleeper aspect is one of the things i love most... A big honking nine inch back there just screams speed.

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Guest Anonymous

far to exspensive.. not to mention the r-200 is strong as any vetter rear enxcept the dana 44 .. but the 34 and 36 are no stronger then the r200 .

 

and i doubt the half shaft u joints are much stronger .. its the U joint im breaking NOT the shafts or rear end.. I honestly belive the rear can take the power fine with a limited slip unit ..

the CV in my opinion are not as strong as the u joint shafts they just deal with angle better under squat .. well my car doestn squat much .. and i raised the rear end 2 inches so the half shafts are almost level under load..

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Guest Anonymous

Not efective..

 

i doubt would creat enough os a increase in str to warrent the cost..

I was imply asking basicly if anyone knew how strong the cvs are would they live Or is there someone who makes a cusomt halfshaft that has larger U joints on the inboard/outboard sides..

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I think max scarb is on the right track. I think

that some adaptors similar to scotties that will

bolt some small drive shafts in place of the half

shafts. With this you run spicer 1330 or 1350 u

joints! Go with like .120 wall tubing...

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  • 2 weeks later...

8.8IRS in DOHC Cobras fail often - with slicks even more often! Can you say broken carriers? And broken CV shafts too (sigh). Anyone building a serious DOHC Cobra these days ends up with Raxles halfshafts and then if they go further a full-on 8.8! The older SuperCoupe rears might be worth looking at but I wouldn't bet on it. Dunno' what the solution to a 9sec IRS is going to be...

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1fstz,

 

I hate to break this to you, but if you want to launch the car with slicks and NOS, I recommend you go with a Ford 9" or a built-up 8.8. 142+mph is an indication that the car can go quicker if you can launch it like you want. I stayed with the IRS because I still consider my car a street car and still like to go around corners (yeah, I know, everybody thinks I am just a drag racer). I know I can get my 60' down to mid-1.50s with DRs and I am happy with that and anything else is gravy.

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Give these guys a call.web page. I was going to go this route, but the 'tech' guy said that the BMW units wouldn't be able to handle the power. I find that hard to believe. They can also change the % lockup for you if you go that route. I just decided that the Q45 stuff was more easily available and I wanted to get going with the conversion, so I cocked the BMW idea.

Tim

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Is the r230 mounted in any 300zx cars? and that type of rearend gears are available. As far as i can see the q45 was only sold in america an japan and i live in europe.

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Guest Anonymous

the r 230 is PLENTY strong it was available in any 300 zx twin turbo late model and or q-45.. it is larger and stronger then a 9 inch ford as far as the internals go ..

 

the problem is how to adapt one to my car strongly enough that i dont jsut rip the center carrier out from under it ..

 

i curently run low 1.5 60 foots.. and the car is capable now of 9.60 at almost 150 mph .. meaning i should be able to run 9.10 or so with that mph..

 

I am leavieng on the motor cuting a 1.57 60 foot then i spray it about 150 feet out and stand on the bottle the rest of the pass. Problem is i still kill a half shaft every now and then and its NO FUN breaking one when your already doing 50 mph.. vs breaking one right at the line..

 

 

If i could simply get the halfshafts to survive the spray out of the hole I would be happy.

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