Oddmanout84 Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 Ok, I know I'm probably beating a dead horse with this one, but sometimes the horse just isn't quite dead yet... If you're like myself and are working on a project car (or anything in general) and have decided on the do it yourself method, at least do it right. One of the best ways to reduce your margin of error is to use the right tools for the right job. I'll keep this thread short, but at least it should give a general idea. First, if you're going to do things yourself and have the pride of doing so, one of your greatest investments is a set of quality tools. I understand that a lot of us are on a budget, but there's no use going out and getting yourself a cheap set of tools that's going to break on you the first time you use it. Case in point: Grandma was very kind in giving me the toolset that this came in several years ago, so I'm not going to knock on her. But if you're the one spending the money, get something that at least has a good name. This 17mm socket was practically brand new when I first used it to remove the nuts on my transverse link. I hadn't even applied very much torque on the breaker bar before it shattered. Not only did this suck because I would have to buy a replacement socket, but I was lucky that the shrapnel that flew off didn't go in my direction. After stomping around and cursing I let anger get the better of me and applied a 17mm wrench to the same nut, then stomped it to break torque. The wrench was from a small higher quality duralast set and did not break or deform. I understand that not everyone (including myself) can afford to go out and buy a craftsman or snapon set, but the least you can do is buy something from a reputable hardware store (or if you're lucky, borrow some tools from someone you know who has a good set). I firmly believe that a good toolset is your greatest asset, and it will save you money and frustration in the long run. Next, for the sake of your project, use the right tools for the right job. This means using them for the jobs they were intended for. Use wrenches and sockets for bolts and nuts. Using a set of vice grips or channel locks is fine when you have no other option, but unless you want to strip and replace every piece of hardware you work on, use sparingly. Don't substitute this for the right sized wrench or socket just because you don't have one... If you're working on your brake system, this will be one of your best friends. It's usually called a flare nut wrench. When I started on my brake system the other week, I was working out of a Haynes manual. After having a hell of a time removing the fittings for the ridged lines I took a break and found a Factory Service Manual online (This will also be one of your greatest assets. Get one). In it is displayed a note that states clearly "DO NOT USE OPEN FACED WRENCHES ON BRAKE LINES." Had I seen this before, I wouldn't have almost stripped my fittings. Back to the transverse link. See the threads on the pivot bolt? As you'll find in some other threads the S30 spindle pins are one of the least fun things to remove. I tried to take this on without searching around to see why it wouldn't budge (yes, I removed the lockpin first). I started off mildly enough but once again I let frustration take hold of me and ended up hitting the ends with a hammer. Now I have a mushroom that I cannot eat. The FSM and Haynes manual both show this picture for the removal process: Yeah, right. Once again I searched the forums after the fact and found there's an interesting device that someone fabricated called a spindle pin puller. Its expensive, but from what I gather several users from this website or zcar.com have them and loan them out. I'll have one too, shortly. Two more bonus links for a couple of people removing coil springs off of their struts. The first one is impressive, but I'd have to say its an isolated case that shouldn't be reattempted: Hopefully those links work. I know a lot of this info may seem pretty redundant for most people here, but it can't hurt to repeat useful information. Especially for relatively new mechanics such as myself. The bottom line? Use common sense, and do things the right way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 Now I have a mushroom that I cannot eat. LOL. BTW, I completely second his statement. I would add that, as you get older and continue to buy tools, go for Craftsman or equivalent. Autozone brand isn't terrible (I have some, too), but they will break. If Craftsman breaks or wears out, you get it replaced for free at any Sears outlet. Oh, and... :beatdeadh:beatdeadh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 I agree entirely. Not only will good tools make the job that much easier, but they are also such a joy to use. I am sick of junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 man, I'm glad I got a 170 (?) peice craftsman set for x-mas. also, flare wrench's are your friends. I even used it to take off my fan to make sure I didn't screw up the little nuts holding it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serx93 Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Never have more true words been spoken. Screwdrivers are one of the most abused tools ever. They arent scrapers or prybars or chisels. When the proper tool is used it will make things so much easier. When I was a kid I was using a screwdriver to pry on something and my Grandpa stopped me and handed me a prybar and showed me how to use it. I have 3 sets now in differing styles and sizes. They came from Harbor Freight and didnt cost that much but when they are needed they are invaluable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 In NZ, I find PowerBuilt and Sidichrome are two nice brands for socket sets. Never had either break on me yet, but some no-name ones did. the Powerbuilt sockets have survived a 100Kg guy standing on a 5 foot pipe slipped over the ratchets handle! However, the Powerbuilt ratchet was a different matter, the locking pin in the head that determines which direction if ratchets in snapped, the no-name ratchet stripped the interior spine ring the ratchet pieces brace against when turning the handle. the Sidichrome one is still going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 When I cant afford Snapon I use Repco. They are nicely built and will replace them when they break (wont swap as easily as snapon, but they will swap when you hassle them). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted August 30, 2008 Author Share Posted August 30, 2008 Something I forgot to add: regardless of what company makes it, never use a ratcheting tool to break torque. This will severely reduce the life of the ratchet, and those things are damn expensive. Also, these rules apply to using chemicals. Never use a cleaning chemical on a component without first researching what kind of effect it has. As the FSM states, if you use mineral oils to clean out your brake system, you will have to replace all the rubber seals inside your MBC etc. Mineral oil breaks down rubber. I'm also not sure, but I believe those nice little headlight covers that you can get for early model Z's are made of plexiglass. If you care about their long term life, don't use alcohol based substances (like windex) to clean them. Alcohol will actually dry out the plastic, eventually causing hairline cracks. A product called Plexus will do the job on any plastic glass. The stuff works wonders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 I thought windex was AMMONIA based, which is why you shouldnt use it on plastics. for paintball masks, you basically have to throw out a lense if you ever use windex on it due to it being a safety risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted August 30, 2008 Author Share Posted August 30, 2008 Bah... Thanks fo the correction. Well i guess I might have mixed those two up when it comes to windex... But if memory serves me right, alcohol based substances will also degrade plastics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyuri Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 General rule I follow is: any driver exerting greater-than-normal force (impact gun, breaker bar, cheater pipe, etc.) requires impact-grade sockets. I also prefer them for torquing fasteners, when possible, for the same reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 I've never had a problem with Craftsmen tools. Personally I've used them on impacts, for whatever reason my impact set doesn't have certain metric sizes. The older you get, and more projects you work on, you will accrue more tools than you know what to do with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 The older you get, and more projects you work on, you will accrue more tools than you know what to do with. Thats pretty damn accurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Every tool in my hand is a hammer, except barrowed ones. Kitchten knifes make for great screwdrives untill you twist the tip, however if it breaks, your in better shape. Wife dose not let me use them anymore. I know screwdrivers are not ment for prying or chilseling that has not stopped me from going through tons trying:). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 For the record, Sears will only replace Craftsman hand tools, they will NOT replace anything that runs with electricity or air. It's their new(ish) policy of saving their asses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.