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Hyuri

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About Hyuri

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  • Birthday 12/27/1984

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    Apple Valley, CA, USA
  1. Generally speaking... that's actually correct. Most H4 housings seem to work just so, with the low-beam filament directing its light primarily upward to be reflected in a downward-biased cone and the high-beam filament lighting in all directions to produce a (roughly) vertically-centered cone. The different filament locations also change where the light goes once it reaches the reflector, and it's somewhat complicated in ways that I've never taken the trouble to properly understand. Next time you get a chance, look at a standard H4 capsule: you'll notice that there's a shield part
  2. This is better explained by the fact that the imperial gallon has almost exactly 20% greater volume than the US gallon.
  3. I had the exact same thing happen to my car a few years back. The only thing I'd changed recently was to install a new Duralast cap and rotor and a fuel filter from Autozone. After the fire all I did was dig out some old plug wires and get a new cap/rotor from NAPA that I'm still running. I'm still not sure about the relationship, if any, but I haven't bought anything from Autozone since, and I haven't had any problems with new parts since.
  4. One correction: the standard pump is the M90.
  5. I believe the shaft is keyed one way, I know the TPS is (see picture), and I don't think the wire would reach the bottom anyway.
  6. Hyuri

    Seat swap list

    After Friday night, I can also add that this mounting, crappy as it may sound, will hold up to rolling an S130. And that stock seat belts in good shape will also hold up (literally).
  7. 83 N/A. Rock solid past 120 MPH, gets pretty squirrely above 100 with the windows down, somewhat more stable with T-tops off and windows down. All on straight, more-or-less level surface; speeds estimated from digital tach reading (accurate, but imprecise). Pulls pretty well even in 5th once it gets above about 3k. Runs out of go rather abruptly somewhere around 5k in 5th, which should be about 135, which I think is a fueling issue. Even at this point, it still feels steady enough to steer one-handed. (Before anyone jumps, I don't, but it feels that stable.) Only "performance
  8. Seriously? Wow... The little residual oil left from filling has so far been enough for me every time, along with not monkey-torqueing.
  9. Yeah, but how many ... other-than-decent compilers are still floating around, still being used, still being written? Besides, it's just a bad habit to get into, assuming that the compiler will fix any performance hits your coding might induce. Better to code for performance in the first place if possible.
  10. Okay, if you're going to use , printf, and scanf, why not just go back to C? You're using a C++ compiler, but you're writing C code. Also, using pow() to square adds the overhead of a function call (and the overhead of the math library!) without any real readability benefit. And M_PI, while common, is not a standard definition. And heck, wheelman, most of my experience over the last few years has been C#!
  11. Just to throw it out there, RockAuto didn't blink at shipping a Bosal cat ("Not for sale in California"!) to my house in Southern California; it just arrived today along with my new front pipe and O2 sensor. Those magnets are just about my favorite part of ordering from RockAuto. Really.
  12. It is, indeed, related to the type specifier (%f for floats, %lf for doubles, %Lf if you want to get crazy and use long doubles) in your scanf calls. Different types, even of the same variety (e.g. floating point), can be stored in wildly different internal formats. If you're really going to use C++, try using STL methods like cin and cout. They make things much simpler - not having to remember the format specifier for each type you want to use is incredibly helpful. The basic library is also usually , not (canonically in C++, FYI). switch is also generally better than a seque
  13. Okay, so I feel really stupid now. First place I should have looked had them: JC Whitney. Naturally it was about the last place I looked.
  14. I was just hoping to find someplace online (preferably cheap) because my brother's bankrolling the repairs with his credit card and he's about 300 miles away. Otherwise I'll be dipping into my gas funds, and that's no fun at all. Kinda looks like I'll be going that way though.
  15. Like the title says, I need to find a source for 2", 2-bolt exhaust flanges, as on the NA 280ZX. I need and have ordered a new front section, including cat and O2 sensor, but I want to keep the muffler section if I can, and I want to be able to remove my exhaust without cutting it this time. So, yeah. The football-shaped ones, for two inch pipe. Anyone?
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