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240Z L28ET swap


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Hey guys, we just bought an '83 L28ET with ~78k miles on it. It included just about everything but the transmission, distributor, and crank pulley. We have stripped off all manifolds and accessories and are looking to get 300-350 hp with megasquirt, injectors, Holset (HY35 I think?), MSD, and intercooler. We have many questions though! First off, to install an intercooler on a 240z, what modifications need to be done? For the turbo, I know Big Phil uses a Holset HY35. Is this just the compressor side or is it both hot and cold side? How much is this turbo? Does it just bolt on? Also, this manifold is the EGR version, obviously, and I was curious as to if it is possible to remove the system or if it should stay. Is there a diagram of where all the piping/lines go? Also, should the exhaust manifold be heat wrapped or is it fine? And how about the injector cooler fan (or whatever its named), should that stay?1046500ru7.jpg Let me know what you guys think, thanks!1046496ca1.jpg

 

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Hey guys!

 

I noticed that I posted this topic WAYYYY back in August of '08 and I chuckle at my first post now, lol!

 

At any rate, I'm going to continue updating this thread as progress resumes.

 

Right now, I am just finishing reassembling my rear suspension. Unfortunately, one of our Tokico Illuminas seems to be shot. I say this because it is no longer returning to its full length after pushing down on it (while it is out of the car, of course). The strut has not made any noise or showing and leaks (that I know of), so I will be reinstalling it as is until I can afford to snag a new one.

 

I am currently trying to trace my rear end clunk. I have discovered two things while the suspension was out of the car:

 

1) The nuts on the inner and outer transverse link (control arm) were both out of spec. The inners (24mm) are supposed to be ~115 ft/lbs and the outers ~70 ft/lbs. Most were tight, but some were not. I went ahead and corrected the issue.

 

2) My gland nut on the passenger side (same side as the bad strut) was loose. This could very well have been the reason my strut failed, due to irregular movement. I tightened it back up and now, the suspension is back in the car.

 

Hopefully my clunking will be gone after correcting these issues. I am running a 3.7 VLSD from a 300zx with CV shafts and MM adapters on 27 spline 280z stub axles. Additionally, I am using Dave's (AZC) mustache bar and brace to run the finned cover. I just filled the rear end unit with LSD additive and Valvoline 80W 90 synthetic gear oil and used Permatex's "The Right Stuff" to seal the rear cover to the differential housing opposed to the gasket. I am anxious to see how this works because I know it worked VERY well by using it on my oil pan with the gasket. I was having a small leak coming from the very bottom-most point on the differential, but I filled it up and so far, so good (no leaks)! So all in all, a lot of improvements have been made to the rear suspension and differential.

 

On the other hand, we are trying to prepare for the Midwest Z Fest here in Omaha, NE (YOU should come!). I need to mount/secure my Megasquirt ECU and power board, as well as wait for my LC-1 to return from Innovate (stopped functioning). As of now, the car is still just street tune, and most likely will be that way for the track day (assuming we make it!). I would like to tune the car a little more before the event, but only time will tell. I will update this thread with more photos, but in the mean time, here is my YouTube channel in which I make many update videos. Enjoy!

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/jacob80

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  • 7 months later...

Did you end up with the power you were looking for? What are your engine specs? I'm building an L28ET and I'd like to get similar power without stroking it. You should post more pics as well, it looks like your project has come along quite nicely?

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