Pharaohabq Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight! So What's the top Speed you've hit in it so far? Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 You guys also have to keep in mine these vq's use a close ratio 6 speed....the 6th is NOT a overdrive. It can take advantage of using the taller gear. i am running 3.7's and it is the shortest gear i would go thats for sure. Are you sure? I believe 5th is 1:1 and 6th is 0.7something:1 I almost never hit 5th in my track car. At 1:1 with a 3.9 I'm doing around 120MPH at 6500RPM. Only on really long straights to I get it into 5th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 I had my shift light set at 6700RPM and I came out of turn 9 (last turn before a 1/2 mile straight) in 5th gear so it didnt take very long for the engine to wind up to redline. I don't have a speedo but im estimating I got up to around 135 on the front straight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I had my shift light set at 6700RPM and I came out of turn 9 (last turn before a 1/2 mile straight) in 5th gear so it didnt take very long for the engine to wind up to redline. I don't have a speedo but im estimating I got up to around 135 on the front straight? Sounds about right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I should have clarified, its not an ADDITIONAL overdrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I don't doubt the awesomeness of the nicely packaged VQ-in-a-S30, but I am curious if you think this newfound handling isn't something that could be dialed in with tire choice and other suspension adjustments/modifications with another engine (2JZ, SBC, RB, etc) or a variant mounting of the VQ? I'm thinking of what it will be like with my 2JZ (heavier and longer than VQ) in a low, setback position, as compared to the stock-mounted L28. Update: So far the new engine / drivetrain has been running flawlessly even after the resent track event I attended at WSIR. After being out on a high speed track mostly dominated by high HP cars I'm glad to report back that the car holds it's own even in the long straights. The balance is very noticable. When the car is pushed to it's gripping limits it tends to slide evenly and smooth rather than the car rotating or pushing. Even on some off camber downhill sections the car held firm without trailbraking. I'm very pleased with the results. Not once did I have to pop the hood, it helped the overall balance of the car, I couldn't have asked for more power (for now), and I drove the car to and from the event without a problem. Hopefully next time i'll be able to get someone to get some good pics and vids. Just a side note: I got rid of my 4.11 welded diff and slapped my open 3.54 rear end back in. The lack of traction sucks at low speeds. So far I've softened the rear by removing my sway bar and decreasing my rear rebound dampening. I'm really leaning towards a 1-way diff so tuning my suspension/chassis with an open might pay off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I think if you do a vq swap for handling alone you would definitely be misdirected. IMO thats not the reason for the swap, but a perk... you can set up any car to handle great no matter the weight placement (to a certain extent) just take a look at Porsche! The reason for swap for me was a new reliable engine that makes great power in stock form and has alot of aftermarket and potential. You are starting off with the same power as a most fully built L28's and it starts right up in the cold or hot and is smooth, and you can beat on it without a worry. Through a turbo into the mix and it would really get fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 I don't doubt the awesomeness of the nicely packaged VQ-in-a-S30, but I am curious if you think this newfound handling isn't something that could be dialed in with tire choice and other suspension adjustments/modifications with another engine (2JZ, SBC, RB, etc) or a variant mounting of the VQ? I'm thinking of what it will be like with my 2JZ (heavier and longer than VQ) in a low, setback position, as compared to the stock-mounted L28. I drove the car exactly how it is now with the RB25DE setback as far as possible and I can say there is a difference in the way the car behaves. It's nothing spectacular and most people probably wont even drive their cars hard enough to know but their is difference at the limit. Cars that also have their engines entirely behind the cross members behave in that similar manner ( RX-8, S2000...) I actually have a lot of feedback/ impressions of the car since ive made some Major changes to it in the past year, but I just thought I'd post here since it is my most active/recent thread. I don't want to mislead anyone into thinking the car handles great now because of the VQ alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAce Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 So this thread has convinced me to do a VQ swap when I have the money for it I saw earlier that the front was riding a tiny bit taller, did you just leave the suspension as is or change anything to get it riding a tiny bit lower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRATTON Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 great build thread. car/engine/bay look awesome ! stratton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismo512 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I think if you do a vq swap for handling alone you would definitely be misdirected. IMO thats not the reason for the swap, but a perk... you can set up any car to handle great no matter the weight placement (to a certain extent) just take a look at Porsche! The reason for swap for me was a new reliable engine that makes great power in stock form and has alot of aftermarket and potential. You are starting off with the same power as a most fully built L28's and it starts right up in the cold or hot and is smooth, and you can beat on it without a worry. Through a turbo into the mix and it would really get fun. Agreed if your looking for a track car you would have a lot more into the suspension and braces and such. But like was said earlyer it has a good power boost and weight drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 What is the total height of the VQ35 from oil pan to intake manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 What is the total height of the VQ35 from oil pan to intake manifold? He's probably got better numberts than me, but My VQ35HR weighs about 375lbs sitting on the pallet. but that's w/o my cats or flywheel installed. phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcheeze36 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 He's probably got better numberts than me, but My VQ35HR weighs about 375lbs sitting on the pallet. but that's w/o my cats or flywheel installed. phar He's asking height, not weight. The VQ35HR uses the VQ40 block, so its a little taller blockwise, but I'm not sure by how much. I believe the intake manifold on the VQ35HR sits lower, but again not sure by how much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 What is the total height of the VQ35 from oil pan to intake manifold? I'll have to check for exact numbers but, I do know that the intake manifold barely touches the hood when the lower oil pan flange is level with the bottom of the cross member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 He's asking height, not weight. The VQ35HR uses the VQ40 block, so its a little taller blockwise, but I'm not sure by how much. I believe the intake manifold on the VQ35HR sits lower, but again not sure by how much. Oop! you're right, Somehow I really thought he asked weight... I'll have to get out the tape tonight and see, it'll be interrsting to see what the hight difference is between the DE and HR Vq35's. I'm expecting to have to put a good skid plate on my 280Z after I get it put in, since the HR is supposed to be a taller block, tho shorter heads/intake I guess we'll see. though the top of the intake on my HR is all plastic. I may be able to sand down the ribs a little if I have clearance trouble. I'm also planning on mounting my HR a little more forward than you and Austin did. though that'll mean really modifying my crossmember. I was thinking about getting a plate cut in sort of a "U" dogbone shape and welding that below the steering rack, boxing it in and bolting it in front of the crossmember and to the crossmember fame mounts. Then modify the crossmember so that It's mostly under the steering rack which should hopefully give me enough room to keep my hood latch. Unfortunately I don't yet know what spacing I'll need for the shifter to be in more or less stock position. I was going to buy one of Austin's adapters, but until I know the fit on this I may need to wait. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Myron, Do you have your crossmember moved forward for increased caster? Just curious, as that seems like it would make the rack/crossmember interference issues less of a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I didn't want to move mine forward, only making it more U shaped for better fit. another idea is to "U" it lower so it fits under the front of the engine, this would also give me a good surface to mount a skid plate for the oilpan. I don't want to move it since I don't want to change the steering geometry. Myron, if I remember correctly you did something similar to how Austin did his. Cutting and notching then boxing in the remaining parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Moving the cross memeber forward 1.25" will improve the caster getting it to ~7 degrees. I'm doing this on my swap soon.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Im assuming your are going to change out to a monoball on top to provide the needed flex? 1.25" would definitely allow you to clear the motor, might just need to do a tad bit of trimming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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