stony Posted January 9, 2002 Share Posted January 9, 2002 I'd like to hear opinions on backhalving a Z positive and negative assuming im getting the most traction i can now with the irs, what kind of performance will i see after the backhalve is done. Assumming it is also setup right. will it reduce or add weight to the car. im pretty sure 60 foot time will come down. Im thinking with big meats in the back and a good set of hi 4 or low 5 gearing i could see as much as a 1/2 second improvement in 1/4 times. Am i dreaming???? Oh by the way im running a 3.90 rear gear now. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 9, 2002 Share Posted January 9, 2002 Positives IMHO: Far less squat, posi and a huge gear ratio selection, hella big meats and the rear end strong enough to take much more throttle/boost off the line without breaking something. Your 60' times will most surely improve. Whether you'll see a .5 sec that I don't know that might be pushing it, but even a .25 will have you in the 10's and from what I remember of your setup you have more boost available, so maybe .5 sec is reasonable. The car will be more structurally tied together which should also improve the cars reaction off the line. NHRA legal once you get into the 10's. Negatives: Some handling loss (although personally I think its far less than people think), perhaps more weight (although a R230 with big CV's ain't no lightweight either), that may be able to be nullified if you use like aluminum coilovers and light rims. The extra 2x2 or 2x3 framework back there will be heavier for sure no getting around that. Lastly expense, but really with a car with as much horsepower as yours either IRS or solid is going to be expensive if its to live behind that skyline motor. Those are the ones I can think of, as you might note I'm a bit of a advocate for a solid rear in a car used mostly for drag racing, its tried and true and used by the majority of everyone that seriously drag races a high HP car and doesn't want to go broke replacing things all the time or have the money to go with alternate IRS rears which is usually a wash pricewise. (no flames here please, thats a general statement and my own opinion) Good luck with it. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 10, 2002 Author Share Posted January 10, 2002 Lone... agree 100% on everything.... I dont pan on scca or fast driving in the mountains;> all i wanna do is go straight as fast as i can for a 1/4 mile. and not spend a fortune doing it. i want a vertually indestructable rearend that will handle the future build up of the motor. the weight has got to be very close to the same as all the components of the irs setup includeing struts and everything. comparing all the frame work to all the stuff that will be cut out should be pretty close also. thats a good idea. im gonna weigh all components that come out and go in including frame and sheetmetal work and see if i gain or lose. car should get heavier with the cage install though. we will see ;> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 Cool Stony I'll be watching your progress with great interest. Good luck with it. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 You know...... I have ridden in plenty of Camaros and Mustangs that have the straight axle and they hanlde like a dream. They also womp ass off the line. I know that the car's handling will ever reach full potential with a straight rear.....but when was the last time you laid the wood to a nice mustang 5.0 and the curves. They rule ass. GOooooo Straight Axle!!! Hooray Dana44 and 12" wide rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 A simple 4 link may not be the cat's meow for handling, but add a Panhard rod, etc. and it won't be HORRIBLE, IMO. Try to keep the rear and the linkages, brakes, wheels, tires light, and the unsprung weight won't bite you so bad for cornering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 them danas have spline shafts as big as a susan b !!! a nine incher should hold good though. but you cant go wrong with a dana dane.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dp351zcar Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 A idea I had is can a solid rear end be put in without backhaving? I know that it would need torque boxes and link hookups but the idea I had is a solid axle could be taken out with taking out four bolts and undoing the brakes. The IRS can be taken out as a unit also. Could a Z be built that would be able to be switched back and forth depending on the event that is going to be run? I would like to have my cake and eat it to. To bad I can't convince my wife to let me have a girlfriend Just a thought. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 11, 2002 Author Share Posted January 11, 2002 Oh by the way moser 35 spline axles were my choice of axles. will be running a full spool with hi 4 or low 5 gearing with a 31 in tire on 15x15 wheels ;> Im thinking this will get me out of the box alot better then the BFG's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 And, will get you standing on your bumper . Better add a set of wheelie bars to that list of parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 19, 2002 Author Share Posted January 19, 2002 now that would be fun ;> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Russ240z Posted January 20, 2002 Share Posted January 20, 2002 If you need leg room I would stay away from ladder bars. Especially if you want a low ride. The average ladder bar is 33 inches long. Pull a tape from the centerline of the rear hub and you will see the ladder bar crossmember is well into the seating area. For big/tall men it is a tight fit. A four-link will cost more but give you a wide array of setup choices and more leg and head room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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