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my new 77 280z project in texas needs help


Guest klinc

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I picked up my z last week from the orig owner. thought it was a pretty solid car until I jack up and look under.She didnt know much. it sat for over a decade. PO told me it ran why dont I belive that now. after trying to start it I found out the fuel pump was dead. I had to make a run to 2 Autozone cost me $112 for a new pump. Now I have fuel. Took the plugs out they were black and the cables were hard. So back to AZ at 9pm. bought all new plugs and wire cap/rotor just to be safe. I forgot to get a new coil. So today going back to AZ. i read the EFI bible and still motor doesnt Start. It cranks and wont turn over. I dont know what else to look at. check over the vacuum lines. I do see some vacuum lines missing next to the idle control on top and bottom (will post pics). if anyone has pics of that area would be great. I will also post pics of the project soon. any help would be great

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Ok, you are going to need this:

 

1) Can of starter fluid, disconnect the rubber hose going into your throttle body and spray into the intake manifold, make you open the butterfly on the throttle body!

7928.jpg

 

If the car starts and runs for a few seconds until all the starter fluid is burnt off that confirms you are NOT getting fuel.

 

2) If you are not getting fuel, then you have clogged fuel lines from sitting for 10years and you will need an air compressor with a fitting to blow the lines out with 100psi of air. Disconnect the line at the fuel filter in the engine bay to blow the air through it, did you replace the fuel filter?

 

3) If you are still not getting fuel, drop the tank and get the tank boiled and cleaned, here is a good opporutnity to re-new all the old rubber lines while you are in there.

 

4) If you have fuel now and the car still does not start then, buy a Bosch noid light ($5 from any parts store), stick it into any injector plug and crank the car, the light should illuminate..if it does not then you may have an issue with your injector dropping resistor located adjacent to the brake master cylinder or EFI relay or possibly the ECU (but that is *RARE* that the ECU will go bad).

415PJ774QFL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

188069_Noidlight_1.jpg

 

5) If still no luck and you have fuel and the noid light is illuminating, check

your spark by buying a spark tester and putting inline with any plug wire, should be nice and bright as you crank the engine.

spark-test-light.JPG

 

6) Check all your engine and body grounds and clean them up surgically with sandpaper. If you can get a spare AFM to try as yopu trouble shoot as well.

 

That should get you going, the best part all these trouble shooting tools are inexpensive and handy to keep around.

 

Good luck and report back.

 

Yasin

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guys thanks for the info. I got it running late yesterday. It was the injectors. someone had bent the terminals in the injectors. so they weren't getting any current. now the next problem. i have to drop the fuel tank. it reads below E on gauge.

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guys thanks for the info. I got it running late yesterday. It was the injectors. someone had bent the terminals in the injectors. so they weren't getting any current. now the next problem. i have to drop the fuel tank. it reads below E on gauge.

Good to hear that you were able to figure out the injector issue. Out of curiosity, what part of Texas are you in?

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  • 2 weeks later...

where at specifically in dallas? im in arlington, between ft. worth and dallas. right off of i-20 and park springs. i have a 78 that ive been working on, thats sat since 1991 lol. have had some problems similar to yours but have gotten just about everything worked out. still havin issues with frontfire, but i need to clean all connectors(like mentioned above) and do the efi bible tests, and hopefully can get that worked out. if youre not to far from me maybe we can meet up sometime, help each other out if possible.

 

jeremy

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