Challenger Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 How do I do this? I need to disconnect the tie rod from the spindle so I can drop the strut out for new shocks and springs. The fsm shows a little tool that looks like a valve spring compressor. Is there any other way to get it off without the tool. Can I just pound it out from the top? Thanks, archives didnt really show anything, just how to remove the inner tie rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Take the two bolts out of the bottom of the strut and you can pull it right off of the steer knuckle, no fussing with the tie rods necessary. If you were going to remove them and replace or something like that and needed to get them off, then you would not want to pound from the top. You'll mushroom the threads and then you've got real problems. You can use a pickle fork but it will tear the boots, or the tool that you described, either of which you can buy at auto parts stores or online. A pickle fork on an air hammer works great. I've never had much luck at this but some guys will whale on the side of the piece, in this case the steer knuckle right where the tapered section of the tie rod goes through with a BFH. If you do this right the vibration will pop the tie rod loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 OK thanks, I actually just got back from Shucks and got a pickle fork for $10.85, pulled it right off. Im going to go look now for the two bolts you mentioned. But I will be replacing the tie rod ends. -- Were the bolts you were referring to the ones holding on the bar that goes diagonally backwards to a mounting point on the frame? (dont know what its called ) I did remove those but it wasnt enough clearance to get the top of the strut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 No, they mount the strut to the steer knuckle. You would put a bump steer spacer in right between the steer knuckle and the strut if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 An old mechanic once told me, loose the nut, and hammer the metal piece (not the tie-rod) same goes for Ball joint. Your paint might take a hit, but it will work and you can reuse them. Don't put grease either in them, they will start turning and you are in a new set of problem Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 Can anyone give me a link to the faq/sticky on bump steer spacers... I heard it referenced in a few older threads Ive been reading but I cant find it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 There are only 3 pages of posts in the FAQ forum. Here it is (it was on p.2): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103886 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 Oh Im an idiot, didnt even see there was a second page in the FAQ. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 Got another question, Ive got all the struts out where I can work on them. Looking at the base where the knuckle attaches to the control arm it looks like there is a joint there. How do I know if this needs replacing or if it does is it a replaceable part? Edit- http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SSSC01A02/23-4301 Is that the ball joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Yep. Ball joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MCQ&MfrPartNumber=FA1044&PartType=66&PTSet=A Heres another one I found. So basically if their is grease all over the ball joint I need to fork over the 80 bucks? Cars are expensive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 You can and should replace your ball joints. Don't skimp on suspension compenents like joints. In the future if you need to remove joints don't use a pickle fork and your greese boots will last longer. It might be a good idea to inspect your bushings as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 Well I have new tie rod ends for both sides, and a full bushing kit, along with shocks and springs. I used the pickle fork because Im replacing them (dont need to save grease boots, their gone anyways). If I need to remove them again without replacing them Ill get the other tool. As for who to get the ball joints from, I did some searching at it seems that everyone likes courtesy nissan parts rather than something from shucks (ordered from parts america). Are the McQuay-Norris ball joints any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 I’ve had good results with Moog ball joints. Part number for the S30 is K9011 or MOK9011. Found one source at $58.04 http://www.autopartswarehouse.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 Little update, got the front suspension torn apart. Ball joints are a MUST! They are completely shot. Now on to the back Im trying to get the control arms off from the inner connection. I took off the bolts on each end, now all I need to do is take of the 4 bolts holding on the hangers? I have my chiltons out but its of no help... The "hangers" are the pieces directly below the white bushings in this picture. Once I remove those will it drop down and slide forward or will I need to take out the crossmember at the front mounting point? Just to let you all know Id be out there just tearing it apart if I didnt have 12 stiches in my finger, Im having to limit my time working on it and need to know exactly what I need to do before I start removing stuff. Appreciate the help, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Take the front diff crossmember off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 Makes sense, thanks! More for in the morning.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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