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LS1 in a Z32


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Hey guys I happen to have both a LS1 bottom end that I put together for a guy that ran out of money, and a 1990 Z32 N/A with a rod knock. I have been searching this board and I know that there area few LSx powered Z32's out there.

 

any info on the actual swap wouldb be great. what motor mounts you sue, headers(C5 vette I assume)? oil pan (camaro I asume)

 

I would also realy like to use a z32 trans. I really don't want to shell out T56 money because I know the Nissan FS5R30A can handle 5.7L LSx power with heads / cam.

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i looked at using the z 32 tranny and the cost of having adaptors made wasn't that much less than a t 56...im in the process of doing it now. i'm using stock ls motor mounts.. one of the biggest things i've found is the " massaging of the trannt tunnel...i've got alot of info from alot of searching. pm me and i will help you any way i can.

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Just came back from the shadows and am just about finished with my swap. Shoot me a PM or email so I remember and I'll send you some info that I have from back when everything was being put together.

 

PM's aren't an option on your name??

 

 

It seems like hacking up the fire wall is required to do the swap. If that's true then I'll just swap to TT,

 

I already have a hacked up firewall in my hardbody pickup that I swapped to VG30DE-TT, the Z is going to be my daily driver I cant loose the time it takes to gut the car and do the firewall. I'll just do the LS1 in my truck and take the TT out of the truck an dput it in the NA Z. :(

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  • 1 month later...
Just came back from the shadows and am just about finished with my swap. Shoot me a PM or email so I remember and I'll send you some info that I have from back when everything was being put together.

 

Vann,

I spoke with you on the phone a long time ago about your LS1 z swap(truely an incredible piece of work). At the time I was in search of such a car to buy. Now I'm committed to do it myself. I saw in this post that you offered to send some info to another member who was interested in the details of your build. Could you include me also on the info? Thanks!

 

Jeff

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I need info on this topic. I have a 5.3 from a 2001 Suburban. I figured that it was free, why not use it. All I would have to buy is a t-56 trans. What do i have to change beside the intake?

 

Depending on where you place the engine, the oil pan will most likely have to be swapped out or modified as well. Your 5.3 pan is also very deep, probably too deep for the Z-32, i.e. hang below the cross member 2-3 inches with the crank centerline set for proper tail shaft to diff alignment. Just pulled the LM7 5.3 out of my wifes '01 Suburban a couple weeks ago. This weekend, weather permitting, I will be stabbing the 5.3 in the engine bay of my Z-32 V-8 mock up mule, (as well as my VH45DE, though leaning more towards using the LSx for my Hybrid Z-32). My plan is NOT to touch the firewall. As such, I may looking into utilizing the GTO pan which is front sump. The cross member in the Z-32 is so far rearward and the rack is at the back of the cross member, which is the biggest headache in getting the engine in easily.

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It will be quite interesting to see pictures of how the LSx and the VH fit, do photograph well!

 

Huge 2nd! Keep us posted with pics and measurements as I too (weather permitting as well) will pull the 5.3 within the next week or two.

The GTO oil pan seems to be the way to go with this swap. I don't want to start cutting the firewall either. Let us know how it is going. Good luck

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I need info on this topic. I have a 5.3 from a 2001 Suburban. I figured that it was free, why not use it. All I would have to buy is a t-56 trans. What do i have to change beside the intake?

 

I've done a ton of research on this topic, including discussions and pictures of different swaps. I'm planning a LS swap for sometime this spring. Feel free to e-mail me and we can discuss. We can probably help each other out a lot.

 

Jeff jeff.baumann@stld.com

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It will be quite interesting to see pictures of how the LSx and the VH fit, do photograph well!
Huge 2nd! Keep us posted with pics and measurements as I too (weather permitting as well) will pull the 5.3 within the next week or two.

The GTO oil pan seems to be the way to go with this swap. I don't want to start cutting the firewall either. Let us know how it is going. Good luck

 

 

Oh I like pictures, rest assured all will be documented with pictures that I hope will be helpful to others in the future.

Just weighed the LM7 and the VH45DE as discussed in the two links below, (last year weighed a VG30DETT GM LS6 with 4L60E attached, and another LM7 with supercharger and 4L60E attached on the same scale).

FWIW, the LM7 and VH45DE weigh approx 30 lbs more than a similarly equipped VG30DETT :wink:

 

The engine weights are posted here;

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125246

 

The start of my Z-32 V-8 conversion thread with a few pics;

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025

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So I guess that the GTO oil pan sits up front of the cross member? Any pics of that oil pan?

 

Here is the most complete list of LSx oil pans that I can find, with pics and measurements;

 

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html

 

Yes the GTO sump sits forward of the cross member. Though now after setting an LSx in the engine bay of the Z-32, I'm not so sure the GTO pan will help in keeping the engine centrally located in the engine bay as the GTO pan would require the engine to move even further forward, (Radiator would have to be located forward of the core support and T-56 shifter would have 6"+ dog leg).

The LS-x powered 240-SX crowd and a few LSx powered BMW 3 series conversions are utilizing the GTO front sump oil pan for their conversions.

 

Here are just a few of the different pans from that thread.

 

Pics courtesy of LS1tech.com

 

Truck pan;

dim_oil_pan_02-06_truck-900x800.jpg

 

F-body pan;

dim_oil_pan_ls1_camaro-910x882.jpg

 

LS2 Corvette pan;

dim_oil_pan_c6-866x741.jpg

 

Cadillac pan;

CTSVoilpan-120corrected.jpg

 

GTO front sump pan;

dim_oil_pan_gto-869x946.jpg

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Here is the most complete list of LSx oil pans that I can find, with pics and measurements;

 

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html

 

 

F-body pan;

dim_oil_pan_ls1_camaro-910x882.jpg

 

LS2 Corvette pan;

dim_oil_pan_c6-866x741.jpg

 

Having had the F-body and LS2 pans together these pictures are just a little misleading. The F-body pan is about 3/4 of an inch lower near the drain plug than the LS2 pan. It's hard to see in the pics but the LS2 pan is flat on the bottom.

 

Cary

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Anyone have a special set up to pull my engine out of my burb? I want to pull the transmission and trans axle out in one piece. Any advice?

 

After removing the 5.3 from my wife's 2001 4wd Burb, 1500, I would think trying to remove the engine with the transmission/transfer case still attached would be a HUGE hassle, not sure it can be done without a gantry crane. Personally, I think it would be easier to remove the engine first then drop the trans out the bottom.

 

The engine comes out by itself extraordinary easy, (the only "easier" engine extractions I have done are the L-6 out of an S-30 and L-4 out the 510!) The only real tip I have to offer is to remove the intake manifold when you are ready to to access the bell housing bolts and wring behind the engine. Allows access to the upper bell housing bolts. Intake mani comes off easy and quick! Not to mention, if you leave the intake on the engine during removal, good chance you'll bust the rear of the manifold during extraction.

Exhaust manifold collector bots are easy to get to. Torque converter bolts are easy to get to, (leave the torque converter in the trans), All accy up front are easy to get to and remove prior if you so desire. Engine mounts bolts are easy to get, all wiring is easy to get to, (removing the intake eases access to the oil pressure and am sensor and block ground in the rear). The only special tool needed is the 5/16” and 3/8” fuel line disconnect tool. Other wise, Metric sockets, 3/8 drive and ½” drive, a few end wrenches, (10mm, 13mm, and 15mm are the most common sizes used). A few 3/8” and ½” drive extension in various lengths. A quality wobbly, (I prefer the Impact style wobbly as it is more of a CV joint instead of that cheesy offset U-joint….)

 

After you see how easy that engine comes out, and how well GM engineered its design so that everything is easy to get to, maintain, etc, you’ll appreciate the LSx on a whole new level. :2thumbs:

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