TheNick Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 More rebound at slow piston speeds allow for faster response to transients - turn in, slaloms, corner exit etc. Cary is the 1st person I've ever heard say that linear valving may be advantageous and lead to more grip. The only time I've ever heard of linear valving being used is circle track racing where there are very few transient maneuvers. Linear valving is pretty horrible for street driving because of the incredibly high forces at fast piston speeds - a lot of the bumps get transmitted directly to the chassis instead of using the spring energy to dissipate it. This is why every single off the shelf Koni has some level of digressive valving - not sure about Bilsteins but I think most of the are as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Cary is the 1st person I've ever heard say that linear valving may be advantageous and lead to more grip. I'll be the second. Depending on the application it can work well. Linear valving is pretty horrible for street driving because of the incredibly high forces at fast piston speeds - a lot of the bumps get transmitted directly to the chassis instead of using the spring energy to dissipate it A lot depends on the valving itself and the application design. KYB GR2s for the S30 are very comfortable shocks with linear valving. They rely on good, progressive bump stops to handle large bumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Make that three. I actually had a shock tech guy suggest a slightly progressive valving might be advantageous for the rear of my car. Since I'm using the 30mm Bilsteins and they are linear he thought that would do fine, since the progressive part of the curve was really not a very sharp knee. He did the shocks on the CSR car that placed 4th in the 2007 Runoffs, so it's not quite so easy to disregard him out of hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNick Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 CSR /= production car with 0 downforce in comparison. Keep that in mind Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 CSR /= production car with 0 downforce in comparison. Keep that in mind Jon Right. I didn't say he used the same valving for the CSR car that he did for mine, did I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNick Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Nope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Anyone know where to get a 15mm ID, 5/8" OD bushing? My camber plates have a 5/8" hole, and the shaft of these bilsteins is 15mm. Worst case, I can order a 15mm ID bushing and turn down the the OD to 5/8". Just figured I'd ask before doing this. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Anyone know where to get a 15mm ID, 5/8" OD bushing? My camber plates have a 5/8" hole, and the shaft of these bilsteins is 15mm. Worst case, I can order a 15mm ID bushing and turn down the the OD to 5/8". Just figured I'd ask before doing this. You mean 14mm, right? 15mm is damn close to 5/8, .600 vs .625. Ground Control has bushings to fit the 14mm shaft of the 0032 with a 5/8" monoball. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Well the threads are M14X1.5. There is about 0.75" of threads. The shaft bellow that is 15mm. The spherical bearing in my camber plate is about 0.620" tall. So I can't really get any thread engagement if I placed it on the 14mm shaft area. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Well the threads are M14X1.5. There is about 0.65" of threads. The shaft bellow that is 15mm. Interesting. I wouldn't bother bushing the .025 because I think the nut on top will keep it from moving around. If you're really concerned about it you could get some .012 shim stock, cut it into strips and stuff it down in between the shaft and the monoball to make up the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Well I got my inserts apart. You used to be able to just unscrew the insert from the yellow body. Bilstein started using loctite on the threads, so this is no longer possible without using some heat. Anyway, I used a chisel and hammer to seperate the silver bottom cap from the yellow tube. Worked like a charm. Now that I look at the internal strut, 240z guys could run these in a standard orientation if they liked with the yellow tube removed. The shaft is 0.441", and the body diameter is 1.575". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I cut the bump stop in half on the R36-5022H0. This gets me upto ~5.5-5.75" total travel compressing the strut by hand. Justin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDreamin72 Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 now im new to this whole coil-over deal and i know its probably in there somewhere between page 6 and subsequently my post here but...is there going to have to be some sectioning or cutting and rewelding of these strut inserts or can i buy them and bolt them in, persay after cutting the perch and welding new on in place, with the lower ride height without having to worry about sectioning the strut insert itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 .is there going to have to be some sectioning or cutting and rewelding of these strut inserts No, the strut inserts (shocks) are left intact. The strut tubes are cut and welded. or can i buy them and bolt them in Yes you can buy the strut inserts (shcoks). , persay after cutting the perch and welding new on in place, with the lower ride height without having to worry about sectioning the strut insert itself? I don't know who Persay is. The cutting and welding part is done to the strut tube, not the strut insert (shock). You really need to read this thread and the other stickies in the Suspension forum. Or at least buy a shop manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 I can finally confirm that the Bilstein R36-5022H0 does fit my front 280z strut housing just fine. There is plenty of room! The body length is so much shorter, one could section nearly 4" out of the factory front strut tube. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 I've been doing some measuring with the R36-5022 insert. To get in the same travel range as the P30-0032 bilstein, I will need to section the front insert to fit with a 0.85" spacer underneath it. Since the body length is so much shorter at 10.47", this means I need to section the strut to fit a insert body length of 11.32". That takes off about 3.25" out of the strut!. I'm going to trip check my measurements before I do this. Also, Im' going to be ordering the Bilstein 36mm gland nuts shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Why do you want the same amount of travel? You don't need it if you're running stiff springs, and I thought you were headed in that direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Since the extended length of each insert is: R36-5022 18.89" +0.85" spacer = 19.74" P30-0032 19.74" Compressed Length: R36-5022 Factory 14.96" +0.85" spacer = 15.81" R36-5022 Cut Bumpstop 13.39" +0.85" spacer = 14.24" P30-0032 13.98" I have cut the bumpstops on my struts to give a total travel of 5.5". If I wanted to match the P30-0032 insert in its full compressed length I would use a 0.59" spacer under the strut. I really need to get the camber plates mounted up, and get the car at static ride height so I can figure out the exact length I'm going to need to section these struts. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 If you set the ride height where you've been posting pictures, 5" of travel puts your frame rail about 4" underground. I understand you're going to raise the floor, but I don't think you need the travel you're trying to get, even with the floor raised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 5" of travel I think he means 5" of total travel, not 5" of bump travel. 2" of bump travel on Justin's car would be enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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