thehelix112 Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 As per my build thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=955824&postcount=4 I'm using torrington needle bearings from motion industries that fit the a1 racing coil over tops. PNs, prices etc in the link. Thats for the a1 racing coil over top and I'm using it with the stock strut top though, not TTT: But I found everything I wanted on the motionindustries.com website. The search thing is kinda retarded, but the part numbers for torrington are pretty easy to decipher, e.g. FNT 1528 is a needle bearing 15mm ID 28mm OD, LS1528 is thrust washer 15mm ID 28mm OD. The FNT and LS prefixes appear constant so you can find whatever size you need hopefully? Myron, it looks like you've got the hat sitting down on the tapered part of the piston? I was going to do this, but decided against it as I wasn't confident thats what bilstein had in mind. Maybe we can go over what I did this Saturday when you help me put it all together. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 I just finished installing the P30-0032 Bilsteins on my front 280Z housings. I really recomend the strut tool to tighten the gland nuts. If you have bimmer friends they might have one. What gland nut did you use? Part#? Or is yours custom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 I don't have the part numbers but, I used the female and male gland nuts that came with the struts. The female was welded to the housing and replaces the original threads. I did it almost identical to how Dave (thehelix112) did it. Check out his suspension build thread for more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Nice, Thanks Myron...I previously looked through his thread and saw you were doing his welding and figured he was copying your setup for the most part... I just didn't want to assume! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 On a side note, I just got off the phone with Bilstein Aftermarket & Motorsport, the P30-0032 has internal bump stops, so no need to run them. Also, the dust covers that come with it are too big to fit inside 2.5 coil over springs. I just stuffed them in there figuring the protection from dust damage to the damper was more important than the 0.001lb/in change in rate the compression of the boot involves, and the wear on the steel shaft from the plastic? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni L Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 How much you can lower the S30 when its still driveable on track? Guys who have custom coilover or Arizona Z Car set must have measured? I´m putting Tein Flex coilovers to my car and this would help. Off course there will be many other suspension upgrades too. Car doesn´t have to be "lowrider", but i want there is enought adjustment... My body is still in rotisserie and measurement is hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 What are peoples thoughts comparing the koni 8610 vs the Tokico HTS112 for Mid 300lb spring rates? They are near the same cost. Which is prefered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Interesting thing I just found. Looks like you can fit a 36mm piston Bilstein into a 280z strut tube :) 280z strut tube ID: 1.845" ref: http://sccaforums.com/forums/permalink/274631/276929/ShowThread.aspx#276929 36mm 3000gt Bilstein: 1.803" ref: http://ryanizer.blogspot.com/2008/07/bilsteins-for-s14s.html Now I'm wondering if a HD bilstein is the same internal parts as a sport bilstein since I plan on revalving either one. Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Interesting Justin. That'd be great. Keep us updated when you get some. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Here is a list of possible 36mm Bilstein Inserts that are workable: 3000GT R36-5022-HO: Body: 10.47" Min: 14.96" Max: 18.89" Stroke: 3.93" http://www.allshocks.com/productimages/R36-5022-H0.jpg Z31 300zx P36-0262-H0: body:14" min: 14.5" max: 20.625" stroke: 6.125" http://www.allshocks.com/productimages/P36-0262.jpg Audi P36-0369-HO: body: 14" min:14.375 max: 20.5 stroke: 6.125" http://www.allshocks.com/productimages/p36-0369.gif Saab 900 PE3-3093-H0 body: 13.75", min:14.75" max:20.5" stroke:5.75" http://www.allshocks.com/productimages/pe3-3093.gif Porsche Inserts may also work: P36-0112, P36-0113, P36-0114, P36-0115 For Comparison, the Bilstein everyone is using currently on Z's: P30-0032-HO, Body: 12.5", Min: 13.98" Max: 19.74" Stroke 5.76" http://www.allshocks.com/productimages/P30-0032.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 More Info on the 36mm inserts after Talking with Keith at Bilstein 1-800-745-4636. Looks like the problem is the gland nut yet again. They have M48 X 1.5p and M52 X 1.5p. No M51 gland nuts available. I'm going to look into have some M52 X 1.5p threaded tubes made that can be welded to our strut tubes. The M52 X 1.5p gland nut part number is B4-B36-U242-B2. Here is a table showing the factory valving of the inserts I identified in the last post. I'm thinking the 3000gt insert may be workable. According the Bilstein you can cut down the 2.36" internal bump stop to gain some travel. The nice thing about these 36mm piston units is the re-valving potential. There are linear and digressive pistons available to use when rebuilding the units. Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 That Mitsu insert has a LOT of rebound dampening, but as you said, the advantage to these is the 36mm digressive piston, and if you're willing to revalve, then it's no big deal. Checking the previous posts here, John C came up with a body length on the Konis of 13.07", so it might even be possible to use the Saab insert that is 13.75. Not sure if that leaves you with not enough strut housing to section. As to the stroke, Bilstein add spacers for the longer stroke struts. I don't see why a spacer couldn't be added here. There's a broken down Bilstein showing the spacer and bumpstop on this thread from another forum: http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=85 I think 4" might be enough travel for a lot of Z racecars. Stiffer the springs, the less travel is necessary. Another option for the gland nut might be to hog out a male nut that is way too big, weld it to the strut housing, then thread a female nut onto it. Or alternatively, turn threads on a tube which would fit over the strut tube and could be welded on, much like the threaded coilover tubes, but weld on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Actually in retrospect that spacer just adds to the total extended length, not the stroke. Still, the bumpstop could be cut down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Got off the phone again with Bilstein. Internally threaded M48 X 1.5p gland nut(made for 30mm insert, so you'd have to got it out to work with the larger strut tube diameter: B4-B30-U226-A1 Externally Threaded M48X1.5p gland nut: B4-B36-U242-C1 Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 The Minor Diameter on a M48X1.5p internal thread is 1.8307" (46.5mm). Looks like this will clear just fine for fitting the strut tube dia of 1.803" (45.8mm). Its a go :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Not following these last couple posts. Are you using my suggestion? Weld the male to the outside of the strut housing and then thread the female onto it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Not following these last couple posts. Are you using my suggestion? Weld the male to the outside of the strut housing and then thread the female onto it? Actually welding the Female threaded gland nut on to the strut tube: B4-B30-U226-A1 Then threading in the male gland nut: B4-B36-U242-C1 I called about the 3000gt gland nut. It is a press fit unit I may just be able to use this part if I can make a little sleeve to weld onto the strut tub :) I'm going to order my set of 4 X 3000gt inserts today and get this ball rolling. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 You might as well try to figure out the valving you want first, and then have them revalve them before they send them out. That way you wouldn't have to send them back to be revalved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 You might as well try to figure out the valving you want first, and then have them revalve them before they send them out. That way you wouldn't have to send them back to be revalved. Yeah, I got free shipping on my order through AllShocks.com http://www.allshocks.com/bilstein/html/show_shocks.asp?make=MITSUBISHI&model=3000%20GT&year=1991 I'm just going to get them fitted and figured out before I throw money at having them revalved. I'm thinking I'll have them revalved 300/100. My spring rates are 350/375 F/R. What are your thoughts? Also, if I can't get the press fit just right, I'm going to make 4 tack welds to hold the gland nut to the strut tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 I'm thinking I'll have them revalved 300/100. My spring rates are 350/375 F/R. What are you thoughts? That's what they were using on the linear ones, I'm not sure how the progressive ones relate in terms of those same numbers. This part of the shock thing is a big question mark to me. Can you move the knee where the pressure digresses? If you can, where should it be? Should you use more rebound since it is digressive, or less? Shock valving is a complex question. I assume you've seen this webpage. It might help a bit to get in the ballpark at least: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets16.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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