JMortensen Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Nevermind my last post, saw your pic and you're not pointing directly at the center of your target, so you should be good to go on the U joint angle issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 I understand I can utilise ‘perfect alignment’ as I will be using Jurid couplings as fitted to GM donor car. With the conventional Cardan or Hooke joint perfect alignment would result in brinelling, i.e. too much wear on the needles, however, the Jurid acts more like a CV joint and has no metal to metal contact points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 I suppose you can then. I assumed there would be a U joint somewhere in the system and that damper was just a damper, not the whole attachment of the shaft to the yoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Boy from Oz: I bumped into a post I believe it was here on hybridz about a fellow that had vibrations in the driveline. He went so far as to remount the diff upward and realigned the tailshaft of the trans such that there was 3 degrees inclination on BOTH the front and rear of the drive shaft in relation to the trans and diff. I thinking about it this must provide a cancellation of vibration from both the front and rear U joints by an equal amount. Look for the post as it was VERY INFORMATIVE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 I'm so close to finalising this but wonder if someone can provide a bit of information. I want to know the angle of the mounting plates which are attached to the transmission tunnel. I don't have access to an inclinometer. I searched for a drawing of the R/T mount showing dimensions (to work out the angle) which I'm sure I've seen before but couldn't find it. Thanks (edit - took a few measurement and figure it's close enough to 7 degrees) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beso Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Looking good! How did you overcome the top diff mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 Can't believe it has been so long but a heart attack and work on other aspects of the project delayed finalisation on the diff installation - but here it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Nice ! So how much for the kit ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nacitar Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 I'm highly interested in this sort of a kit... also, does anyone have any information about what this diff actually is? I don't mean "the diff out of a BLA"; I mean what it actually is... Essentially, I'm not looking for "The diff out of a 300zx TT" but "A R230". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 I believe it is a Dana 44 diff, but don't know the code... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meph Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 (edited) That final fabrication looks A+. I really like how the mount that attaches to the cover and two posts on the diff was done. should keep the diff very stable. Idon't know if it's been mentioned already, but mounting location for the front four bolts can have issues with strength and breaking/ ripping away from the unibody. Have you taken any steps to reinforce the area? At very least make sure you use Loctite on the bolts. I remember reading one post where somebody that broken off but having Loctite on the bolts Save it from failing completely (nuts broke away from their welds) Edited July 6, 2013 by Meph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 I'm highly interested in this sort of a kit... also, does anyone have any information about what this diff actually is? I don't mean "the diff out of a BLA"; I mean what it actually is... Essentially, I'm not looking for "The diff out of a 300zx TT" but "A R230". It was manufactured by ZF for Holden (GM in Australia) and was part of the wrecked donor car I used in my LS1 installation. ZF is a German component manufacturer operating in many parts of the world including down here. I believe that in situations like this a vehicle manufacturer will own the design copyright and have the component supply outsourced. Dana have also been used by Holden to supply diffs. About the only way to obtain this particular diff is from the vehicle manufacturer here in OZ as a spare part or from a salvage (eBay, etc) or off a GTO in the US,This particular model has been superseded by an all aluminium casing model fitted to Holdens down here and to the Pontiac G8 in the US. IRS are standand on most cars in this country whereas I understand beam axles are still popular in the US. My design has a fairly universal application so it really doesn't matter which diff you use and I would suggest you investigate if there is a popular IRS in use in the US and utilise that.diff. Also, I had clearance issues with one bolt on the transmission tunnel and had to make my own countersink bolts. It is a fine pitch thread and no bolt manufacturer makes them as countersinks. I bought longer bolts with a section of plain shank and turned a fine pitch thread and then cut off the excess length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 ...Have you taken any steps to reinforce the area? At very least make sure you use Loctite on the bolts.... No I haven't. I did consider extending the plates (which attaches to the transmission tunnel) up about 50 mm and fitting a third securing bolt through to the interior but I didn't follow up that thought. I'll use the Loctite, thanks for the suggestion.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 I wonder if this could be in the G8? or GTO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouwmad Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Can't believe it has been so long but a heart attack and work on other aspects of the project delayed finalisation on the diff installation - but here it is. I know it has been awhile since this post, but i am gathering parts and information to do my own Diff swap and was wondering if the pictures of the front mount could be re posted or if they could sent sent directly to me? I can see all the other pictures in the thread but these 5. Thanks so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve.milledge Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Just recently found this thread. Thanks for the detailed info. Doing this swap in my 280. How did you work out the half shafts and stub axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Sorry, but I don't get on here very often as the project has moved to other non-Datsun aspects. If anyone requires information in the future send me a PM to let me know your post has been added to this thread. Here is a link to more detailed information: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12048-tutorial-holden-diff-fitted-to-a-240z/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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