Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Everything posted by sweetride2go

  1. Same here. Used a heavy duty stock replacement and working fine after many thousands of miles of abuse. If your engine is mostly stock I would save some money versus those fancy high performance clutches. That, and the drivability will be much nicer (clutch will engage nicer and have a lighter pedal feel). Cheers Ryan~
  2. I think there is a strong majority who run manual steering(stock). Probably fewer than 5% of us hybrid guys are running a PS swap. I don't think it is a popular or necessary swap to do. My Z handled fine with the manual rack, only suffering in parking lots at slow speeds or where dry steering had to be done...
  3. Jonny, I would try routing your intake like this guy did on his pathy, but I don't know if you will have the hood clearance. Obviously you won't have to worry about the intercoolers... http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv342/novamadness/DSC00896.jpg
  4. Time for an update: Crankcase breathing is done via one catch can. It pulls fresh air from the passenger side intake into the engine. From the other side it pulls crankcase gasses from the valve cover into a catch can, and from the catch can to a PCV valve on the drivers side of the plenum. I had this running with out the catch can and the engine accumulates oil in the intake. It's surprising how much oil and water the catch can accumulates, probably a pint in between oil changes. I have 12,000 miles on it now and no real problems to report. I did have to change the IAC valve, this fixed dieing issues when accelerating and idling issues. Also had a dead short I couldn't find for a while and it ended up being the 'air meter', which is a cold start feature on the back of the intake that allows additional air to pass during cold start. Apparently it was wired to a constant hot, fixed that and now it starts a lot easier and no more charging batteries. yay. The oil smoking went away, apparently just a break in issue. Still running only 6lbs of boost, just haven't gotten to installing the boost controller. The truck runs really strong! Im actually hardly in the boost unless im passing someone or climbing a steep hill. Average mileage is appx. 20mpg.
  5. I have a clunk, but I have found a worn spline on my right rear stub axle. Guess it is time to do bearings...
  6. I believe it is a Dana 44 diff, but don't know the code...
  7. I am using a Weir kit as well, but would source another way of doing it if repeating the process. Actually if repeating, I would sell the T56 and go with a WC T5. Anyways, I am running a Ram clutch/pressure plate with a McLeod steel flywheel with Weir's Hydraulic throwout(wich is a PITA to bleed). Cheers
  8. Ya, Eagle Alloy series 28 in a deep dish is nearly impossible to find in a 4 lug anymore, so I had to compensate. Some day, funds allowing, I will venture into 17" wheels and hopefully be able to ditch the spacers all together.
  9. If you gut the Autometer and just trim the lip off the cup it will fit in perfectly, and appear almost stock, except for the orange needle. I like that it was easy to program, not hard to install, and still works! Unlike several of my much more expensive Speedhut/Revolution gauges on my other project...
  10. +1 on the larger master. I had to go to a 1" for my T56, something with the datsun clutch pedal geometry wouldn't allow for full travel on the master, so I compensated with a larger bore. Unfortunately, this made the pedal stiffer. :/
  11. Looks like a limiting strap in the circled area?
  12. That spreadsheet is awesome! However, I noticed there isn't a listing for the R30A's that come in the nissan pickups. Wouldn't the gearsets be swappable from those as well?
  13. I ran into similar problems with my first build. The fan would kick on and my belt would squeal at low rpm's. I also have burnt through a few relays. But since then I have been running 60/70amp relays with no problems, and since I rewired the car I no longer have rpm drop or belt slippage issues. On the old car I found a crimp connector that I had used that had a bad connection and was half black. Make sure your connections are good!
  14. I ran a larger radiator with a Taurus fan, but the radiator fit nicely between the rails and on the JTR radiator cradle. Ryan~
  15. LOL, always need more money. Why can't more stuff be free??? Maybe I will split the difference and hunt for the 3.7 diff then. I don't want to gear it too low. This is on what us locals call the WA autobahn. 80mph is about 2000rpm, give or take a bit. My stance from the side on a uneven surface...
  16. Wow, blast from the past! I am running 265/50/15 on the rear, with flares. They spec out near 26". I ran these tires more for surface area and traction, not much for counter gearing. Now, in 2013, I have a new problem. These tires are hard to find any more, and so I will probably be going to a 17" rim in the near future. I am also running the 3.5 R200, but I am wanting to go the other way. Looking for a 3.7 or 3.9 diff so I can better use my gearing, 6th is almost a waste unless I'm doing better than 70mph.
  17. In regards to the wiring, I did mine not long ago and one of the things I wish I had done was to take the harness to the headlights/fan/horn/signals/etc and tuck them under the right fender. I didn't use a painless kit, but it was similar. Most of the car wasn't that bad, just make sure you make solid connections. The hardest part was wiring to the combination switches on the column. Good luck Ryan~
  18. The 700R4 only requires one wire. The 4L60E is a bit more complicated...
  19. I have run both transmissions in my Z. A built 700R4 and a T56. The 700's are great transmissions! If you are looking for a used one make sure you are getting one with the upgraded pump, which I believe is any after '88. The early 700's are what gave them the bad name. And I would run a cooler on ANY automatic, as heat is an automatics worst enemy. If you like drag racing and just driving places, I would recommend running an R4 or the 4L60, which are vary similar. If you are drag racing and running a shift kit better than a Stage I then I would recommend upgrading the sprag clutches. Here is my .02 on the T56. It is an overrated transmission, especially for the cost. Like you said, it is like a grand just for the purchase, and then you will have to round up the components to swap it onto the engine. In my case, it was almost another grand for the components; clutch/bell housing/pressure plate/flywheel/throwout/and bearings. And with stock gears in the rear I can tell you that 6th gear is all but useless unless I am doing better than 70mph... In hind sight, I think I would have been better off spending the money on a TKO-5speed. Cheers Ryan
  20. I am currently running stainless hardline all the way. But my first V8 Z, I used a couple pieces of 3/8 flared line from the auto store and used adapters at either end. Was fairly inexpensive and the line wasn't to hard to work with, ran a coupling in the center and cushion clamps to secure the line out of the way of any rubbing scraping issues. Cheers Ryan
  21. I haven't set it up yet so it's just breathing to the atmosphere. It will eventually have two catch cans, and either hooked up to the intake or a vacuum pump. Like I have room, ha...
  22. and a couple of videos. smokes a little on decel and inbetween shifts. ???
  23. Got some exhaust pictures! I think it's all self explanatory. This is the drivers side, not much done to the down pipe here other than changing the final bend on the Megan downpipes... This is the passenger side, they had to pretty much rebuild the whole thing and it took a while. They also tried to keep it balanced. These are both where it joins under the transfercase. cheers!
  24. Picked it up from the exhaust shop, more or less, but I'll get into the drama later. The guys at Nameless Performance here in the Pacific North West did a great job on my exhaust and intake piping! It is all stainless, so it will last longer than the truck. They use mandrel bends so it looks super clean and professional. I ran over there today to do some final things and drive it home. They had to use the battery location for one of the intake filters, so I had to figure out what I was goin to do for my battery. Luckily, they had a couple of these compact, sealed batteries, I grabbed one and found it a home between the air cleaner and charge pipe. I still need to make a shelf for it to sit on and something to tied it down with. I hooked up the power steering and put oil in, it runs like it did before. Need to save up for a new steering box. But other than that, it works great, belt doesn't throw or squeal, and no leaks. Speaking of which, no leaks at all! All of the charge piping done, HKS BOV's installed, 3" cone filters, etc etc... After that we rolled it out of the shop and I took it on a test run. Runs soo good, and boost is strong! I don't have pictures (yet) of the exhaust, which is dual stainless 2.5" pipe to just past the drivetrain where it collects into a Magnaflow muffler and runs out in a single 3" pipe and exits behind the drivers tire. They were able to salvage my Megan downpipes, but the passenger side needed considerable modification to be fitted properly. My clutch is super touchy, but I think I may have some air in the line, so I will try to bleed the system and see if I have any improvement. Oh, so to the drama... When I left I only made it about a mile or two down the road where I notice my engine temp rising, and it reached 200 so I pulled over. After considerable deliberation we have the "overheating" issue narrowed down to either air in the system, a stuck thermostat, or a bad temp gauge sending unit. We are leaning to the latter, as engine and water temps measured by hand seemed far to cool for 200*.
  • Create New...