Matt Cramer Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 They are inline, and the one I have cost about $10 so I suspect we're looking at the same part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Oh ya did you put them on the switched power or the constant power or both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I am at 22 psi and use 7s. Magnecor plug wires are great (I am running a set as well)m but they are a little pricey. I paid $80 for mine, and they are only 6 inches long, tip to tip. Wow... are you saying 22psi on 91, 92 or 93 octane pump gas? My car would break the ring lands from detonation. Are you using methanol or do you have a ceramic coating on your combustion chambers or pistons? Please tell me your secret.. I run BPR7ES at 15psi on the street and BR8ES's at 26psi on the track. I find that the 7's with the projected electrode start better cold and probably get a bit better mileage. Factory plugs are BPR6ES-11's. I highly recommend a resistor plug no matter what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Jeff I'm having a hard time beliveing plugs or wires are your problem. You driven to DNI and back w/out any problems, driven around town a bunch and your just now starting to have problems. New plugs and plug wires just sounds to easy to me ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 John, pm sent. I do not want to thread jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Jeff I'm having a hard time beliveing plugs or wires are your problem. You driven to DNI and back w/out any problems, driven around town a bunch and your just now starting to have problems. New plugs and plug wires just sounds to easy to me ... FWIW I had MS installed for several months before I began to have problems with resets. Initially they were rare and only occurred under hard acceleration. Later they occurred more often, sometimes at idle too. Since switching to the magnecor wires over a year ago I haven't had any unexplained resets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share Posted September 20, 2008 Ok i got one of those filters. I first tried it on the constant power. No difference on my battery voltage. It was still jumping around. Then i tried it on the switched power and it was the same. Im really thinking i need a new alternator. If i wasnt broke i would buy both the magnecor's and the alternator. but im broke so ya. What makes me think its the alternator is the spikes in the voltage. I can see emi causing the resets when the voltage goes really low but not with the spikes Idk maybe im wrong. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Ok i got one of those filters. I first tried it on the constant power. No difference on my battery voltage. It was still jumping around. Then i tried it on the switched power and it was the same. Im really thinking i need a new alternator. If i wasnt broke i would buy both the magnecor's and the alternator. but im broke so ya. What makes me think its the alternator is the spikes in the voltage. I can see emi causing the resets when the voltage goes really low but not with the spikes Idk maybe im wrong. . Make sure your battery is fully charged, then disconnect the alternator from the electrical system and see if the problem goes away. Make sure you put some tape on the big wire to the alternator to prevent shorting to the chassis. Disconnect the two wire plug also. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Before I solved my reset problem with new plug wires I too tried swapping to a new (rebuilt) alternator. I was sure that the 1 year old Autolite I had was the source of the spikes. Checker exchanged it under warranty but there was no change. The spikes were still there as were the resets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I'll be a monkeys uncle! I'm having the same problem NOW! I was tuning one night with no problems, next morning I drop it in 4th to make my exit and there it was. A big hesitation. the next day I had the laptop hooked up and had 41 resets during my 1 hr drive. I put 3 noise filters in, one on the 12 batt, another on the switched 12, and the other on the switched 12 at the dizzy with no change. Then my alt. light came on and off for a day or so. I went to the junk yard and got an alt from a 240sx 90amp. No more alt light, and haven't had any resets but there is still a hesitation from time to time. Checked the fuel pump while driving, that's not it. At the batt it reads 13.5(ish) when running, but MS jumps around 11-15 volts. I changed some grounds, moved wires away from interference. ???? I'm stuck. sometimes it will pull hard, and some times it will get into a bog. I also changed coils. unhooked my MSD and went back to just a coil. The only thing I see really is that megatune shows the volts jumping around, while at the batt it holds steady. Its been running great for months, then this all of the sudden. The resets change the kps in my spark and ve tables. I've put a switch into MS so I don't have to pull it out to put the jumper pin in to reflash it. I'm stuck like chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Im with ya phil. I havent tried everything as im flat broke. My birthday is tomorrow so im going to convince my mom to buy me some magnecor wires for birthday/I fixed her mini van for 15 bucks by resoldering a PCB rather than buying the 450 dollar replacement. Seems like a somewhat fare trade. Its so fustrating trying to figure this out. As it was running great before i took her down for 2 months to paint her and then when i get her back on the road she starts running like crap. Here is something else my car does alot. Sometimes when im driving along it just dies. And i have to turn my key off and turn it back on and then it will basically start up again with no big deal. Ive done all the coil stuff and taking out the MSD box and just running the coil with no luck. Im so close to just rewiring the whole MS even though i know thats not it. Just pisses me off that its not something I can pin down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I would for sure reinstall the firmware on the MS. After many resets this needs to be done. It might also fix your problem? It has for me in the past. But not for me now, not yet at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Ive done that so many times. It doesnt really matter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 Well i ordered Some magnecor wires. I hope that will help/fix my problem. What wires are you running phil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 have you guys considered resoldering the power-supply IC's on the board? It could be possible that there are some bad IC's or some that were heated too much whilst soldering. Also, it may be a good practice to resolder some of the IC's in some iffy areas to avoid any cold solder joints. Just puttin' it out there. Electrical parts can and do degrade over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 I'll give that a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 I'd be careful with reflowing solder joints unless you have a good reason to do it. Soldering, like many things, requires the right amount of heat. Too little or too much are both bad. An analogy for those more mechanically inclined is torquing front wheel bearings. There is a window of proper torque. Too little AND too much are both bad, albeit for different reasons. If you think some of your joints are cold, then by all means reflow them. But if they look good, why do it? You run the risk of damaging the component or board by applying too much heat. And if you add more solder, then you increase the chance of bridging to a nearby lead. Electrical parts can and do degrade over time.While that's technically true, the parts used on MS boards, if properly installed (protected from ESD and soldered without too much heat), are going to last for a very long time. Plenty of other things on our Zs are going to fail long before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niner11 Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Running MSII settup and I had problems with random resets until I replaced my taylor plug wires with magnecores. Problem solved....at least for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 1, 2008 Author Share Posted October 1, 2008 Just an update. My magnecor's arent here yet apparently they where out and had to order another set of them from magnecor or something IDK. I tried undoing my alternator to see if it was causing the 12v line to jump around and its not. It was still haveing resets all over the place. My question for everyone is how in the world can my voltage spike to 17 volts when im running just off my battery?? I mean Where is the other 5 volts coming from? Also a queston conserning the MOV1 Phil made a suggestion in seeing if it was unsoldered as his was apparently. So i checked it and it wasnt but i reflowed the joints just to be sure. But can these go bad and if so how do you test them to see if they are bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 Jeff read through this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_Interference "EMI or RFI may be broadly categorized into two types; narrowband and broadband. Narrowband interference usually arises from intentional transmissions such as radio and TV stations, pager transmitters, cell phones, etc. Broadband interference usually comes from incidental radio frequency emitters. These include electric power transmission lines, electric motors, thermostats, bug zappers, etc. Anywhere electrical power is being turned off and on rapidly is a potential source. My thought is, if it is happening now, maybe you've moved your plug wires around (bumped) and now they are causing the issue. When you cut the harness did you move anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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