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holset turbos


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Ive never used one on one of those motors but i do have one on my L28ET. But when i was researching i think i came across a forum on supramania.com about them using it on the 2jz. I believe they where using the bigger hx40 though as the hx35's and hy35's where running out of breath at high RPM's Id do a search on it though. I think i was searching for a holset oil restrictor on goggle and the thread popped up.

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Ive never used one on one of those motors but i do have one on my L28ET. But when i was researching i think i came across a forum on supramania.com about them using it on the 2jz. I believe they where using the bigger hx40 though as the hx35's and hy35's where running out of breath at high RPM's Id do a search on it though. I think i was searching for a holset oil restrictor on goggle and the thread popped up.

 

i can't seem to find a straight answer if the hx40 is a T4?

 

i heard they break easily too, something to do with the shaft

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Hi all I have a question, has anyone try using a holset turbo on a 7mgte or a 1jz???

 

I haven't run a Holset but have an L28 and 7M and have run all kinds of turbos on both. If it spools good on a L28 it will spool better on a 7M. More cc's = better spool.

 

On another note. Having swapped a 7M I wouldn't do it again and 1JZ's don't make any more HP per psi and make less torque.

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I haven't run a Holset but have an L28 and 7M and have run all kinds of turbos on both. If it spools good on a L28 it will spool better on a 7M. More cc's = better spool.

 

On another note. Having swapped a 7M I wouldn't do it again and 1JZ's don't make any more HP per psi and make less torque.

 

so yo are saying u wouldnt do it a 7m again ?????

 

 

I have a hx35 on my l28et set up right now,bt I was loking into going with a different motor, like a 7m or a 1jz.

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so yo are saying u wouldnt do it a 7m again ?????

 

 

I have a hx35 on my l28et set up right now,bt I was loking into going with a different motor, like a 7m or a 1jz.

 

No I wouldn't do it again. I would even sell the drivetrain ready to swap. I only did it because I had a $400 wrecked MKIII and a 240Z without an engine. IMO a 7M isn't much better than a L28, only 200cc more. Longer stroke and doesn't flow much more if any. 1JZ is smaller so I wouldn't even consider it. 1J might make 50hp more at 20 psi if it was lucky. If you are looking at a motor swap it isn't because you have maxed the L28 out. If you had more torque I bet you wouldn't be looking. Go bigger and you'll be happier. 1U, VH, VQ turbo, LSx

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No I wouldn't do it again. I would even sell the drivetrain ready to swap. I only did it because I had a $400 wrecked MKIII and a 240Z without an engine. IMO a 7M isn't much better than a L28, only 200cc more. Longer stroke and doesn't flow much more if any. 1JZ is smaller so I wouldn't even consider it. 1J might make 50hp more at 20 psi if it was lucky. If you are looking at a motor swap it isn't because you have maxed the L28 out. If you had more torque I bet you wouldn't be looking. Go bigger and you'll be happier. 1U, VH, VQ turbo, LSx

 

so is it posible to make 800-900hp with a l28 stock block?

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so is it posible to make 800-900hp with a l28 stock block?

 

 

99% of the people on this board will never get close to what an engine can make. They don't look at off boost power or drive ability. If they did they wouldn't do an SR20 or RB20 swap. Most run them with stock turbos and and maybe 15 psi. Posts like yours do give hope but it is false hope. No 2.5l engine is making 800-900 Hp on anything that will make boost under 6000 rpms and not without running 40 psi and most people won't run $10 + gal gas everywhere they go to do it. Fun on the street I'm sure. I never said an L28 could make 800 hp. I have seen 1JZ's make low 500 rwhp with a big asss turbo and 30 psi. No different than a what 30 psi would do for a 7M or L28, except they would make more torque doing it. A 4-6L engine with 15-20 psi on pump gas will have better street manners and shame a 30 psi race gas using, laggy 2.5l any day. Don't fall in love with just one engine and be blinded by what it can make at peak hp, there is more to it than max HP.

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99% of the people on this board will never get close to what an engine can make. They don't look at off boost power or drive ability. If they did they wouldn't do an SR20 or RB20 swap. Most run them with stock turbos and and maybe 15 psi. Posts like yours do give hope but it is false hope. No 2.5l engine is making 800-900 Hp on anything that will make boost under 6000 rpms and not without running 40 psi and most people won't run $10 + gal gas everywhere they go to do it. Fun on the street I'm sure. I never said an L28 could make 800 hp. I have seen 1JZ's make low 500 rwhp with a big asss turbo and 30 psi. No different than a what 30 psi would do for a 7M or L28, except they would make more torque doing it. A 4-6L engine with 15-20 psi on pump gas will have better street manners and shame a 30 psi race gas using, laggy 2.5l any day. Don't fall in love with just one engine and be blinded by what it can make at peak hp, there is more to it than max HP.

 

You are the man and i like to challenge you, so i can learn...but there are more reason than just peak hp or tq when choosing a engine..what about cost, reliability, capability with curb weight???? I seen guys run 500wtq v8's ( @3000rpm) and i can tell you, it's not good for the street or daily driving...My dad swapped a 350 in a 1g rx7 back in the day. he was running 12:1 compression, mild cam, and aluminum heads, the car was like it was on ice running 11in wide tire and rim....Sure you can fix these problems with suspension or 4 link set ups..thats out of my league and probably most i would guess..point I'm trying to make is there's nothing wrong with making power up in the power band if you are light...i've seen dynos of 1jz making over 500hp from 4500rpm-8000rpm..thats awesome...sure @ 25+ psi, but the 1jz can handle that no prob..Stock internals!!

 

Which brings me to my other points. cost and reliability i paid about $1900 for my 1jz. 1jz are nearly 300hp in stock trim and hold up to 800hp on stock internals( from what i read, never done this my self)....so i figure with the right turbo and mods you can have 400whp for $4500-$5000...pretty good in my book...a ls1 will cost you around 5 grand just for the motor and manual trans and thats only 350hp at the crank...Theres no doubting the ls1 has way more potential, if you are trying to reach that, than i agree it's better to start off bigger and badder....

 

If your car is not set up to harness the tq a turbo ls1 or any other 8v will make, whats the point?... thats the reason there civics out there killing people with only 300whp..peak hp to weight ratio wins...

 

Any way sorry the tread jack, holset turbos are like the secret that everyone know about now... about 4-5 years ago people were giving these away 100-200 bones!!! now look to pay aroung $400 for a good one, which is still a good deal...i have seen DSMs making 400hp+ with the HX35....Just be careful what rear hosuing you get cause it reads in CM..for example rear housing are 12CM, 14CM up to 20CM...

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An L28, 7m, or just about any engine with decent turbo friendly compression can handle 25 psi if timing are kept in check and octane is high. I've run 22 on L28 cast, will run more in a month and 30 psi on cast 7M for more tank fulls than I can even think. I have around 570 rw ft/bs at 28 psi. I have no problem with traction. Yes you have to run a drag radial but that's the price to have a high powered Z. If you can be happy with 400 rwhp with a stock or not much larger then it will have good power under the curve on a 2.5. I guarantee you will not like driving around a 800 hp 1J on the street, atleast if you want to make boost without 3 downshifts to get 6000 rpms.. Power is in the head and torque is in the displacement or boost. Torque is good but it's even better at broad range.:burnout:

 

 

You are the man and i like to challenge you, so i can learn...but there are more reason than just peak hp or tq when choosing a engine..what about cost, reliability, capability with curb weight???? I seen guys run 500wtq v8's ( @3000rpm) and i can tell you, it's not good for the street or daily driving...My dad swapped a 350 in a 1g rx7 back in the day. he was running 12:1 compression, mild cam, and aluminum heads, the car was like it was on ice running 11in wide tire and rim....Sure you can fix these problems with suspension or 4 link set ups..thats out of my league and probably most i would guess..point I'm trying to make is there's nothing wrong with making power up in the power band if you are light...i've seen dynos of 1jz making over 500hp from 4500rpm-8000rpm..thats awesome...sure @ 25+ psi, but the 1jz can handle that no prob..Stock internals!!

 

Which brings me to my other points. cost and reliability i paid about $1900 for my 1jz. 1jz are nearly 300hp in stock trim and hold up to 800hp on stock internals( from what i read, never done this my self)....so i figure with the right turbo and mods you can have 400whp for $4500-$5000...pretty good in my book...a ls1 will cost you around 5 grand just for the motor and manual trans and thats only 350hp at the crank...Theres no doubting the ls1 has way more potential, if you are trying to reach that, than i agree it's better to start off bigger and badder....

 

If your car is not set up to harness the tq a turbo ls1 or any other 8v will make, whats the point?... thats the reason there civics out there killing people with only 300whp..peak hp to weight ratio wins...

 

Any way sorry the tread jack, holset turbos are like the secret that everyone know about now... about 4-5 years ago people were giving these away 100-200 bones!!! now look to pay aroung $400 for a good one, which is still a good deal...i have seen DSMs making 400hp+ with the HX35....Just be careful what rear hosuing you get cause it reads in CM..for example rear housing are 12CM, 14CM up to 20CM...

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An L28, 7m, or just about any engine with decent turbo friendly compression can handle 25 psi if timing are kept in check and octane is high. I've run 22 on L28 cast, will run more in a month and 30 psi on cast 7M for more tank fulls than I can even think. I have around 570 rw ft/bs at 28 psi. I have no problem with traction. Yes you have to run a drag radial but that's the price to have a high powered Z. If you can be happy with 400 rwhp with a stock or not much larger then it will have good power under the curve on a 2.5. I guarantee you will not like driving around a 800 hp 1J on the street, atleast if you want to make boost without 3 downshifts to get 6000 rpms.. Power is in the head and torque is in the displacement or boost. Torque is good but it's even better at broad range.:burnout:

 

Where does your peak tq come in at?

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