grumpyvette Posted October 30, 2008 Author Share Posted October 30, 2008 http://www.lt1intake.com/ http://www.lt1intake.com/services.htm its do-able, the guy above can set you up, but theres better options http://www.holley.com/950-21S.asp http://www.holley.com/91005201.asp http://www.holley.com/9901-101-1.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Mine Motors Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Today i was talking to a friend of mine who has been around z's for a long time. He told me that the reason my car was getting 16mpg is becouse i have low quality fuel injectors on my stock l28. He said that getting stock nissan injectors would give atleast 20mpg. what do you think? should i change them? it's a daily driver, and i've tried fuel injection cleaner. No difference. Thanks Edan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 http://www.lt1intake.com/ http://www.lt1intake.com/services.htm its do-able, the guy above can set you up, but theres better options http://www.holley.com/950-21S.asp http://www.holley.com/91005201.asp http://www.holley.com/9901-101-1.asp oo sweet, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 Today i was talking to a friend of mine who has been around z's for a long time. He told me that the reason my car was getting 16mpg is becouse i have low quality fuel injectors on my stock l28. He said that getting stock nissan injectors would give atleast 20mpg. what do you think? should i change them? it's a daily driver, and i've tried fuel injection cleaner. No difference. Thanks Edan theres only a couple manufactuers of injectors Accel Bendix Bosch Bosch-Ford Chrysler-Mopar Delphi Ford Holley Lucas MSD Nippon Denso RC Engineering Rochester Siemens Deka Toyota - Lexus http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm and thats not likely to be your problem, its software and sensors and the controling data, or the cats or a exhaust restriction, thats much more likely the cause or cure of the mileage problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 Today i was talking to a friend of mine who has been around z's for a long time. He told me that the reason my car was getting 16mpg is becouse i have low quality fuel injectors on my stock l28. He said that getting stock nissan injectors would give atleast 20mpg. what do you think? should i change them? it's a daily driver, and i've tried fuel injection cleaner. No difference. Thanks Edan theres only a couple comon manufactuers of injectors Accel Bendix Bosch Bosch-Ford Chrysler-Mopar Delphi Ford Holley Lucas MSD Nippon Denso RC Engineering Rochester Siemens Deka Toyota - Lexus http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm and thats not likely to be your problem, its software and sensors and the controling data, or the cats or a exhaust restriction, thats much more likely the cause or cure of the mileage problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 lol ill take the 8 gigs of info on two dvd's. how much you want ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Today i was talking to a friend of mine who has been around z's for a long time. He told me that the reason my car was getting 16mpg is becouse i have low quality fuel injectors on my stock l28. He said that getting stock nissan injectors would give atleast 20mpg. what do you think? should i change them? it's a daily driver, and i've tried fuel injection cleaner. No difference. Thanks Edan incorrect. if you had lower quality injectors they would most likely dump less fuel seeing as they might not power up the coil fully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Today i was talking to a friend of mine who has been around z's for a long time. He told me that the reason my car was getting 16mpg is becouse i have low quality fuel injectors on my stock l28. He said that getting stock nissan injectors would give atleast 20mpg. what do you think? should i change them? it's a daily driver, and i've tried fuel injection cleaner. No difference. Thanks Edan I've had that same problem when my zx was still an L28e in high school. I only got 15mpg, it was down on power, and running rich. I disconnected the oxygen sensor and nothing changed (motor rpm, rev, ect.). Replaced the oxygen sensor and ran like a champ. Got about 21-22 mpg non highway driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 I've had that same problem when my zx was still an L28e in high school. I only got 15mpg, it was down on power, and running rich. I disconnected the oxygen sensor and nothing changed (motor rpm, rev, ect.). Replaced the oxygen sensor and ran like a champ. Got about 21-22 mpg non highway driving. defective O2 sensors, heat sensors and clogged cats can and do freqently cause a big drop in mileage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Grumpyvette, i had a couple more (sorry if my consant questions annoy you) i was wondering what the compression was in a third gen camaro 350, i was planing on pulling one out of one next month and checking barrings and what not to see if it needed a rebuild and if not i was just going to rebuild the valve train/ new cam(a little beefier cam) and match port it. I am a polisher at whipple suppercharger ind. and can match port it simple enough with the help of my supervisor. I hear those motors are fuel injected, would it be hard to make it carborated? would it take more then an aftermarket intake manifold and a carborator? i was thinking this route would be a little bit cheeper and easier then startign out with a built motor, i figured it would allow me to grow instead of just jumping to a high torque/horsepower car, does that make sence? and it would that be a wise idea, just to get everything sorta dialed in and get the car running for now? thanks for whatever advice you have. It is much appreviated. p.s. before i rebuild the valve train i was going to read and reread the valvetrain chapters in those books you advised me to read im about half way threw the how to modify chevy small blocks Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 4, 2008 Author Share Posted November 4, 2008 Grumpyvette, i had a couple more ... i was wondering what the compression was in a third gen camaro 350, Thomas it varried by year but most were between 9.3:1----9.7:1 example 88 IROC-Z A4 L98 V8 9.3:1 5.7 (350) 91 Z28 A4 L98 V8 9.7:1 5.7 (350) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Grumpy, I am thinking of deleting my pcv valve and just run dual breathers on my Zcar. I have had issues with oil getting into my intake by way of my pcv valve. It's like running a 2 stroke not to mention the adverse affect of oil in my combustion chambers. A friend said he runs a Fram fv184 pcv valve and it helped tremendously with the oiling problems. Care to chime in with your thoughts on the subject? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Grumpy, I am thinking of deleting my pcv valve and just run dual breathers on my Zcar. I have had issues with oil getting into my intake by way of my pcv valve. It's like running a 2 stroke not to mention the adverse affect of oil in my combustion chambers. A friend said he runs a Fram fv184 pcv valve and it helped tremendously with the oiling problems. Care to chime in with your thoughts on the subject? Thanks, Mike Use a Catch Can, and run the lines to and from the can. With Breathers you may just get oil spewing on your valve cover. And once Oil is in there, it will only run a "bit" better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 13, 2008 Author Share Posted November 13, 2008 http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=8726 morroso sells these,kits you can weld into your valve covers, thier used too connect two valve covers at the front of the engine,and the location prevents a good deal of oil from reaching the breathers, Ive seen guys weld up their own custom version using 1" EMT conduit and have vertually nothing in cost if they have a welder and two tall sheet metal style valve covers, (a great reason to own a decent MIG or TIG)and weld in a washer inside each tube to act as a baffle, and then hook up the PVC to the vertical section and get very low oil flow into the PVC due mostly to both the distance and location on the front over the T-stat housing being far further up and forward reducing the oils tendency to flow to the PVC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 I've also seen a bunch of cars that were emissions exempt, and have a stainless tube go to a bung on the exhaust to burn the oil. dirty outside, clean inside! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarrisonTX Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Alright gumpy, heres one for ya, i really need help on this one. I just recently went with a new topend setup for my 355. This is my first solid flat-tappet cam to run. i read alot about solid cams before i bought one, and people they have a bad name for street cars because they need "constant" adjustment. I also read that this is false, and was only true in the days before poly locks. The old jam nuts were so tight on the studs that every time they were adjusted, the nuts would loosen on the stud, and they would come out of adjustment quicker every time. With brand new studs, and poly locks, i thought i would be good. The studs are manley, and the poly locks are ARP. After i broke in the cam, and did all the right things, i made sure everything was still set properly, and took her on a drive. After about 30 miles, some poly locks lossened a bit, enough to hear, and notice a perfomance difference. I set them again, and drove home, with them already loosening in the 30 miles back. My method may not be the best method. I need something that is methodical that i can go by. Like, get the motor to TDC, set cylinder one, and ?, turn the motor so much, and set number ?, and ?. I know there is a better way than how i do it. You got a link for me? Thanks man! I want to be the tough guy who runs a solid cam on the street, and dosnt bitch about it. I wouldnt mind setting them every 500 miles, but not even being about to drive around town sucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 Ill assume youve verified the rockers and cam & lifters and valve train are in good condition theres no worn cam lobes etc, and you know your clearances are correct before you start, once adjusted correctly poly locks don,t generally come loose and in most cases solid lifter flat tappet cams only need ocasional adjustments, by occasional Id say it depends on the components but several THOUSAND miles between adjustments at the MINIMUM and Ive seen lots of flat tappet engines go 10K between adjustmens or even more. ok , now IM old school but I get excellent results and Im not big on making things complicated, back off the rockers at idle till they click, slip a tappet feeler gauge of about .002-.003 larger than the manufacturers recommended lash, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW130C&N=700+115&autoview=sku (btw tappet gauges are cheap and expendable and its comon to have them bend and need replacement) between the rocker and valve stem and tighten carefully till the clicking stops with the poly lock then lock the set screw, once your done with all 16 , go back and give each poly lock about a 1/10-1/8 turn tighter, to lock the set screws firmly,(this takes up the slight exta clearance and locks the poly locks firmly) keep in mind the rockers wont move in that far as slack in the threads is being compensated for as the nuts lock to the studs and compress the lock screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarrisonTX Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 All the lobes are new, i bought thte cam brand new, and installed it. Everything works fine except my pushrods are a little too short, but that shouldnt effect the poly locks loosening. I have seen people set the set screw, and then snug it down, but that effects the lash. I understand that there is tuning in the lash setting, a little tighter or a little looser could gain or loose a little Hp, but if the cam card says .016, im gonna set it at .016 another 1/8 will do a fair amount. Maybe i could set them at .020, and then do a 1/8 turn. the hex key tool is awesome, i forgot all about those, it sure bets trying fumbling the oily wrench and hex key. I have set Hyd. lifters with the motor running, i dont really like the idea of setting solids with it running... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 if you read carefully , the post above, youll see I said if the ideal lash is .016 you use a .019 tappet gauge and once adjusted with the clicking at idle method, you turn in the center set screw and then turn in the poly lock about 1/10 turn further to lock it firmly thus you have very close to the desired .016 lash as the threads generally move the rocker about .040 per full rotation., and youve remove all slack, preloading the threads a bit, keep in mind the exact clearance, being a thousanth off or exactly correct is not as critical as being consistant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wombatsauce Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Hello - and thank you for this thread! This is great... I purchased my first 240Z back in June, and it came with a custom built SBC. I have the build sheet and some info from the owner/builder but a lot of it is vague and sometimes the verbal info has been incorrect. I have come to the realization that I need to figure this out for myself. This is my first older SBC and the first one I will do any work on at all, so I don't know much about these. I am familiar with basic mechanic principles, have done my own work for years but mostly on Japanese cars - I have no SBC experience. Well, I changed the plugs and the oil so there's that. I have the build sheet, and will put up info from it, but what I am looking for is a general plan. I have been trying to sell the car, but it is not going well and in case I keep it, I want to figure this out. It seems like the cam is far too aggressive for the fuel system, and there could be some other issues there as well. A few people have looked at it and it sounds like I am left with the choice - swap out the fuel injection system/distributor for a carb/regular dizzy to match the cam or swap out the cam for something less aggressive that works with the fuel injection. I like the idea of EFI but am not dead set on it, and this is a "weekend" type car anyway so it doesn't need to start perfectly every time, and I don't mind waiting with it or using a choke till it warms when I drive it. I am having trouble getting the engine to idle below 1000 rpm. When I got the car, it was idling around 1100 and using the controller and changing fuel (pulling fuel at idle), timing and a few other things I got it to idle nicely around 850rpm, but it would always backfire painfully through the intake when I would drive it around - specifically when I would come to a stop and then get back on the throttle. After working with Edelbrock tech support, it was discovered that the throttle body plates were adjusted closed and in fact the butterflies were closing on the bores - this is why it felt the thtottle would stick when I wouldn't drive it for a while. I opened the plates a little and played with it as instructed, but could not get the idle below 1200 now. After starting/stopping the engine about 10 times as directed by Edelbrock, it started to idle nice - but only when cold. Once it warms, it's back to it's 1100rpm or so idle. I have the throttle open around 12deg and can safely close it another 2deg so I might mess with that and see if that works, but I am told by a few people this is the best it will get with this angry a cam and EFI. So here's the info, and please let me know if you have any suggestions: -Using a 1970 350 block, I do not know if it's 2 or 4 bolt mains. -327 crank, block is bored .30 over, so it's a "337" I guess? -Kieth Black pistons, Scat H-Beam 6" rods, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, Comp Cams double roller hydraulic valvetrain w/ girdle. -Edelbrock Pro-Flo fuel injection. Cam info from the build sheet: Make: Comp Cams Type: Roller/Steel Lobe Separation: 110 degrees Intake Duration @ .050": 230 degrees Exhaust Duration @ .050": 230 degrees Intake Lobe Center Installed at: 107 degrees Intake Lobe Lift: .3735 Exhaust Lobe Lift: .3735 Intake Valve to Piston Clearance @ 10 degrees ATDC: .310 Exhaust Valve to Piston Clearance @ 10 degrees BTDC: .302 Intake/Exhaust Valve Lash: Hydraulic 1.5 aluminum double roller rockers w/ girdle Total Intake Lift at Valve: .560 Total Exhaust Lift at Valve: .560 Piston info: Make: Keith Black Hyper.. Comp. Height: .250 Size/Bore clearance: 1: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0575 Clearance: .003 2: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0580 Clearance: .0025 3: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0575 Clearance: .003 4: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0580 Clearance: .0025 5: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0580 Clearance: .0025 6: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0575 Clearance: .003 7: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0580 Clearance: .0025 8: Bore: 4.0605 Piston: 4.0575 Clearance: .003 Deck clearance: 1: .010 2: .009 3: .010 4: .010 5: .009 6: .010 7: .010 8: .010 Crankshaft stroke is 3.25" Cyl head chamber volume: 70cc Cost around $7700 for the longblock from Merchant Speed & Machine in Richmond, CA back in late '00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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