post me some questions

[Guest wombatsauce]

Oh yeah - here are two simpler straightforward questions:

 

1. I need to change out my water pump. It looks pretty straightfoward. Is there anything I should know or any "gotchas" on this? I do not know if it uses a gasket, have not looked in the box yet. Also, my heater hoses look like they are using teflon tape on the fittings, so I will probably do the same. Please let me know if there are any problems with this.

 

2. The temperature sensor is installed in the lower spout of the water pump - as in, a hole is drilled (through the word "Edelbrock" on the pump) and then tapped, and the sensor is screwed in there. It's one of the dumbest things I have seen and it needs to be corrected. My idea is to install a thermostat that uses the copper bulb that runs in the water stream and has an adjustable dial on the box to set the temperature when the fans turn on. I have used these before on my track cars, I believe it was a FAL part. Can you suggest an alternative or recommend something else? I want simple/reliable.

 

Thank you again!!!

[Zeister]

Hello...question....no speedometer or tac connection to existing and original instruments.....is there a conversion kit available once the chevy V8 has been installed?

 

Thanks,

zeister

[grumpyvette]

Ok, let’s start with some basic info,

Without that info, it’s going to be very difficult to diagnose, or isolate problems. I don’t yet know what your transmission, is or what your rear gear ratio is, you’ve provided no plug gap, or injector size info, and I don’t yet know your ignition, advance curve or total ignition timing, and I’m not sure your timing tabs and the TDC marks on the damper are correct, and I don’t know your fuel pressure, or if it varies.

Anything you can add like plenum vacuum readings or exhaust temps. The info will help, to isolate the potential problems.

[grumpyvette]

Oh yeah - here are two simpler straightforward questions:

 

1. I need to change out my water pump. It looks pretty straightfoward. Is there anything I should know or any "gotchas" on this? I do not know if it uses a gasket, have not looked in the box yet. Also, my heater hoses look like they are using teflon tape on the fittings, so I will probably do the same. Please let me know if there are any problems with this.

 

 

There are several different water pumps, with different designs, and there are both different rotations and lengths plus the center mount axle for the pulley can be a different diameter.

 

 

2. The temperature sensor is installed in the lower spout of the water pump - as in, a hole is drilled (through the word "Edelbrock" on the pump) and then tapped, and the sensor is screwed in there. It's one of the dumbest things I have seen and it needs to be corrected. My idea is to install a thermostat that uses the copper bulb that runs in the water stream and has an adjustable dial on the box to set the temperature when the fans turn on. I have used these before on my track cars, I believe it was a FAL part. Can you suggest an alternative or recommend something else? I want simple/reliable.

 

Thank you again!!!

 

 

Most temperature sensors get mounted into a cylinder head, or intake manifold, not the water pump.

[grumpyvette]

Hello...question....no speedometer or tac connection to existing and original instruments.....is there a conversion kit available once the chevy V8 has been installed?

 

Thanks,

zeister

 

 

There are several routes you can go, on the tachometer, but an MSD ignition and a matching and compatible tachometer, seems to be the easy route.

 

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Street/Strip/Digital/6421_-_MSD-6AL-2_Ignition_Control.aspx

 

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions/6421_instructions(1).pdf

[Guest wombatsauce]

Ok, let’s start with some basic info,

Without that info, it’s going to be very difficult to diagnose, or isolate problems. I don’t yet know what your transmission, is or what your rear gear ratio is, you’ve provided no plug gap, or injector size info, and I don’t yet know your ignition, advance curve or total ignition timing, and I’m not sure your timing tabs and the TDC marks on the damper are correct, and I don’t know your fuel pressure, or if it varies.

Anything you can add like plenum vacuum readings or exhaust temps. The info will help, to isolate the potential problems.

 

Is this to me? If so, the only thing I can really answer now is to say I have a T5 of unknown origin. Also, the car is turning 2500rpm @ 80mph in 5th but that is sort of useless without knowing the ratios in the trans or the final drive.

 

I do not know plug gap, injector size, info about the advance curve - ignition is all the Edelbrock Pro-Flo system using a compatable Mallory distributor. I am also not sure the timing tabs are correct or how to figure out whether or not they are correct. I have not paid too much attention to fuel pressure, but it is usually around 50psi but when the throttle is opened it goes down for a sec. It usually leaks down to 0 over night. There is an under-hood gauge. There are some pics of the engine and such here (not that it will help, but hey - pics are fun): http://photos.wombatsauce.com/albums/240z/

 

I need to do a compression check for someone who is interested in the car, so I can check the plug gap then. My hand-held controller for the Edelbrock system usually shows vacuum, but I do not remember what it was when nor do I know if it is correct.

 

I have been trying to find someone who knows a bit about this EFI kit on the car, but have not been successful. I would really like to get the idle issues sorted out more than anything, but figuring out if there are any bad sensors or anything would be really nice. I would really like to sell the car, but if I keep it I will most likely pick up a carb for it.

 

I should have prefaced this by saying that I am clueless when it comes to the SBC so I have lots of learning to do...

[zdmz]

Hi Grumpy,

I have two questions for you.

First, my harmonic balancer is too big (8") and hits the steering rack and I need to get a smaller one. I do not know if the engine is internally or externally balanced. I also don't know how to tell the difference. Any recomendations on a balancer to use???

Second, I do not have a water pump or alternator or any pulleys or barackets on the front of the engine and will need to obtain them somewhere. Does it make any differnece if I use a long neck or short neck water pump as long as the pulleys line up correctly???

Thanks

[grumpyvette]

Is this to me? If so, the only thing I can really answer now is to say I have a T5 of unknown origin. Also, the car is turning 2500rpm @ 80mph in 5th but that is sort of useless without knowing the ratios in the trans or the final drive.

 

I do not know plug gap, injector size, info about the advance curve - ignition is all the Edelbrock Pro-Flo system using a compatable Mallory distributor. I am also not sure the timing tabs are correct or how to figure out whether or not they are correct. I have not paid too much attention to fuel pressure, but it is usually around 50psi but when the throttle is opened it goes down for a sec. It usually leaks down to 0 over night. There is an under-hood gauge. There are some pics of the engine and such here (not that it will help, but hey - pics are fun): http://photos.wombatsauce.com/albums/240z/

 

I need to do a compression check for someone who is interested in the car, so I can check the plug gap then. My hand-held controller for the Edelbrock system usually shows vacuum, but I do not remember what it was when nor do I know if it is correct.

 

I have been trying to find someone who knows a bit about this EFI kit on the car, but have not been successful. I would really like to get the idle issues sorted out more than anything, but figuring out if there are any bad sensors or anything would be really nice. I would really like to sell the car, but if I keep it I will most likely pick up a carb for it.

 

I should have prefaced this by saying that I am clueless when it comes to the SBC so I have lots of learning to do...

 

 

It looks like a nice clean set up,

The rpm info , you posted, gives me a starting point to work from.

The cam itself (if its installed correctly and its not worn) is only a minor factor in your idle problem, its going to idle with a very noticeable lope and probably not lower than 1000 rpm, (but it will probably produce decent hp)

Your fuel pressure should stay steady at about 45-50 psi, the drop when the throttles are opened tends too point to a defective or incorrectly installed fuel system or fuel pressure regulator. Personally ID STRONGLY suggest swapping to a good ADJUSTABLE fuel pressure regulator, if you don’t currently have one. I’m not 100% sure from the pictures, because its easily possible to run two on a system

this might help

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA%2D4315&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku

 

http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Installation-Modification-International/dp/0879387432/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1227106093&sr=1-1

[Guest wombatsauce]

 

It looks like a nice clean set up,

The rpm info , you posted, gives me a starting point to work from.

The cam itself (if its installed correctly and its not worn) is only a minor factor in your idle problem, its going to idle with a very noticeable lope and probably not lower than 1000 rpm, (but it will probably produce decent hp)

Your fuel pressure should stay steady at about 45-50 psi, the drop when the throttles are opened tends too point to a defective or incorrectly installed fuel system or fuel pressure regulator. Personally ID STRONGLY suggest swapping to a good ADJUSTABLE fuel pressure regulator, if you don’t currently have one. I’m not 100% sure from the pictures, because its easily possible to run two on a system

this might help

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA%2D4315&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku

 

http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Installation-Modification-International/dp/0879387432/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1227106093&sr=1-1

 

Thanks for the help! The FPR can be ID'd by finding the vacuum actuator in front between the two fuel rails - the one with the "s curve" vacuum hose going to it and has the main brake booster vacuum line passing over it from the front of the TB as shown in the above photo. I did some tests yesterday after a compression test and inspecting the plugs and the fuel pressure never dropped below 45 or so, so I think it's OK. The car ran really well yesterday and I noticed that my throttle was open to 14deg per the Edelbrock controller - I closed it to 12deg and disabled idle control, and the car settled down and idled nicely. Then, I sold it. Wooo!!!!

 

I had not considered the adjustable FPR idea, but it's a good one. Seems like the EFI system was not adding sufficient fuel in the ~2000-3000rpm range at higher vacuum levels. Small adjustments with the controller at surrounding RPMs seems to have corrected this issue. I passed the suggestion of the adjustable FPR on to the new owner.

 

Thanks for your help, it's been a short ride but it's over now. Back to my Toyotas...................

[grumpyvette]

I was WELL aware of the FPR in the picture,I posted from your site, but like I stated its not uncomon for guys to install a second one on the return to tank fuel line,and the GAUGE in the corner looked like it just might be attached to one (FPR)

[G-rib-73-240z]

Grumpyvette,

 

I was reading John Lingenfelter on modifying sbc engines, and if i understood the camshaft chapter correctly(which i most likely didnt) he said more lift is better even at shorter duration, and i was wondering what cam would be better for street occational strip visits (summitracing) ISK-201274 , or ISK-201278, the first one has more lift, 108 lobe sep and less duration, but the second one has more duration, 106 lobe sep and less lift. I undertsand that smaller lobe seperation means more choppy idle, which i kinda want, are there any other problems with closer lobe seperation besides idle qual?

 

i also wanted to ask which one you would use on a 350 that will mostly see freeway and city driving. im leaning towards the first one for the more lift, but i would still like your opinion on weather thats to much duration for my useage.

 

thanks again

 

Thomas

[shift00]

Grumpy-

 

I have a 77' 280z l28 N/A and Im running the car seasonal, so i don't have to have emissions anymore. so I would like to pull it all off and rid of it. what can i pull off and cap off. I gues me question is...whats the procedure?

 

Thanks, Joe.

[grumpyvette]

Grumpyvette,

 

I was reading John Lingenfelter on modifying sbc engines, and if i understood the camshaft chapter correctly(which i most likely didnt) he said more lift is better even at shorter duration, and i was wondering what cam would be better for street occational strip visits (summitracing) ISK-201274 , or ISK-201278, the first one has more lift, 108 lobe sep and less duration, but the second one has more duration, 106 lobe sep and less lift. I undertsand that smaller lobe seperation means more choppy idle, which i kinda want, are there any other problems with closer lobe seperation besides idle qual?

 

i also wanted to ask which one you would use on a 350 that will mostly see freeway and city driving. im leaning towards the first one for the more lift, but i would still like your opinion on weather thats to much duration for my useage.

 

thanks again

 

Thomas

 

THE ISK-201274 would be my choice, the extra .040 lift (.490 vs .450) usually means more than the couple of degrees in durration, in fact adding 1.6:1 ratio rockers would boost the lift to .522 lift IF youve got the clearances necessary

[grumpyvette]

Grumpy-

 

I have a 77' 280z l28 N/A and Im running the car seasonal, so i don't have to have emissions anymore. so I would like to pull it all off and rid of it. what can i pull off and cap off. I gues me question is...whats the procedure?

 

Thanks, Joe.

 

Id have too see the car, but smog air pumps, catalitic converters and associated hardware gets scraped/replaced , ignition timing gets the advance curve changed to give full advance at 3000rpm, the T-stat should be a 180F-190F and the air fuel ratio gets richened up to about the 13:1 or slightly richer range vs the 14.7:1 range and if you can install headers, a free flow exhaust and yes you can keep the PVC its usually not hurting a thing, if you can boost the CPR with a thinner head gasket Id do that if, it makes a noticable increase over the stock cpr.

If youve got charcoal canisters etc. those get scrapped.

[G-rib-73-240z]

THE ISK-201274 would be my choice, the extra .040 lift (.490 vs .450) usually means more than the couple of degrees in durration, in fact adding 1.6:1 ratio rockers would boost the lift to .522 lift IF youve got the clearances necessary

 

my other question was going to be what the stock rocker arm ratio? im guessing 1.5 from what you said, and my other question would be, say i run the 1.5 for a while and wanted to get the little extra lift from the 1.6's would i have to redo my whole top end set up to run it (like new pushrods and what not) or could i just swap out the rockers?

[grumpyvette]

my other question was going to be what the stock rocker arm ratio? im guessing 1.5 from what you said, and my other question would be, say i run the 1.5 for a while and wanted to get the little extra lift from the 1.6's would i have to redo my whole top end set up to run it (like new pushrods and what not) or could i just swap out the rockers?

 

YOULL need to verify the valve train geometry after ANY change in valve train components, but in the vast majority of cases If ALL the ENGINE & VALVE TRAIN clearances are still ok the geometry will remain within acceptable limits, when you swap ratios from the stock 1.5:1 to 1.6:1.

Its comon for the pushrod slot clearance to need to be checked or corrected.

youve installed 1.6:1 ratio rockers and the pushrods rub...in the guide slots in the cylinder heads,

this is a comon problem,easily solved...

YOU NEED A louis tool, YOU WANT ABOUT .060 CLEARANCE, IT MAKES THE JOB EASY

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D66485&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

These Proform pushrod slotting tools are designed to elongate the pushrod slot in the cylinder head. They will make room for higher ratio rocker arms. Use these tools with a drill and a 5/16 in. drill bit to elongate the pushrod slot.

 

btw place a magnet like this under each pushrod slot to catch the drill chips from iron heads

 

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH&cat=167

 

many, but not all, aluminum performance cylinder heads already were manufactured with the longer slots, now I generally use ALUMINUM ,BRODIX,TRICKFLOW,AFR, ocasionally DART, heads and I can,t remember a recent set that was needing to be clearanced there. but remember the rockers you sellect, pushrod length, spring height all effect the geometry and the clearances can easily be changed

a rocker stud girdle helps also, as it tends to stabilize the studs flex and minimize the changes in clearances as the springs load/un-load

keep in mind most performance heads your pushrod guide plates not the slots in the castings to align the pushrods

(BOTH the pushrod guide plates and rocker girdles are usually unique to that particular heads geometry, so make sure what you want fits the application when ordering parts):thumbsup:

 

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D30400700&autoview=sku

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D30400701&autoview=sku

[cannonball55]

Grumpy, got a question for you that has stumped several long time hotrodders. I bought a LS3 that is drive by wire. The wiring harness from GM actually came with an electrically controlled gas pedal to run the electric throttle body. Problem i'm having is a bought a 700r4 trans to go behind it and I have no clue where i'm going to mount the TV cable. I have seen the results of not getting the TV cable set right. Watched peoples expensive trans go up in smoke it 5-10 miles. Any suggestions? I'd really like to stick with the trans if able. If it comes down to it I'll just install a fully manual reverse valve body and shift it but, since it is a street car I'd rather not have to go that route.

 

Thanks,

Stewart

[grumpyvette]

http://racetransmissions.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/23_72/products_id/77

 

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm

 

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

 

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html

 

http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/700r4+AODTVCableAdj.htm

 

http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/tvcable.html

 

http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

 

http://www.outlawtransmissions.com/v/vspfiles/articles/tv_cables.pdf

 

http://racetransmissions.com/store/popup_image.php/pID/122

 

http://racetransmissions.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/23_95/products_id/122

 

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/holley-performance-products-inc-2055/fuel-injection-9345/page-28-fullsize.html

 

http://racetransmissions.com/mainpages/tech_info/tvcable_adjust/index.html

 

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49798_th200_4r_transmission_swap/photo_07.html

 

http://www.700r4.com/faq/whattv.shtml

 

youll probably need to fabricate something custom similar to this, maybe the links/info will help

[cannonball55]

Yeah, wish my engine had the cable run butterfly like in the above picture. Mines all enclosed and the butterfly inside the throttle body opening is the only thing that pivots. Nothing at all for me to mount it to. I was thinking about possibly mounting it to the gas pedal but, that sets off all kinds of alarms in my brain... I don't want to watch a $2,300 TCI trans go up in flames.

[grumpyvette]

can you post detailed pictures, perhaps I can help if I see more info on the TB