Guest LAYTON Posted April 12, 2002 Share Posted April 12, 2002 hi guys i have a 6 week old problem i bought a 88 300zx lsd good shape lo miles 60k. anyway i put it in and it was noisy.upon dismantlling the inner pinion bearing was toast !so i ordered bearings,seals. put the new pinion bearings in and the factory manual at nissan say torq pinion nut to 137-2?? ft lbs and i did and it was froze tight. so i ordered all the different size spacers for the top of the cast iron crush collar thing and using the biggest one same result so back to nissan parts and saw they had some sims only 2 sizes 70thou and 50thou how ever these show to go behind the pinion bearing only making it tighter so i put the 70thou on top of the bearing (thinking this has gotta do it !) nope but it would spin but realy tight still so i figued it wouldnt hurt so i stacked the 50thuo on top of the 70thou and its still i lil to tight and im realy kinda goin nuts here any ideas? i did double check all the races to see that they were seated and im lost i cant beleave that w/ the collar spacer that is 10thou more than the one that came out and a additional 120thou of shims and its still not there !!!!!!!????????? ps ive been checking all this at 137ft lbs min torq? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted April 13, 2002 Share Posted April 13, 2002 I haven't set up crush on the r200, but when replacing just a bearing, none of the critical dimensions should change. I would be inclined to use the method for other Hotchkiss style diff assemblies that I have gone through and would NOT just torque to a spec, but use all of the shims that were in it when you got it and torque until you get about 20 in lbs to rotate the pinion assembly with a new seal. If their is a NEW crush sleeve it may well take 137 ft lbs to start crush, but once it starts, it goes FAST and 137# on the bearings and races themselves can dimple or distort either one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 hi guys i have a 6 week old problem i bought a 88 300zx lsd good shape lo miles 60k. anyway i put it in and it was noisy.upon dismantlling the inner pinion bearing was toast !so i ordered bearings,seals. put the new pinion bearings in and the factory manual at nissan say torq pinion nut to 137-2?? ft lbs and i did and it was froze tight. so i ordered all the different size spacers for the top of the cast iron crush collar thing and using the biggest one same result so back to nissan parts and saw they had some sims only 2 sizes 70thou and 50thou how ever these show to go behind the pinion bearing only making it tighter so i put the 70thou on top of the bearing (thinking this has gotta do it !) nope but it would spin but realy tight still so i figued it wouldnt hurt so i stacked the 50thuo on top of the 70thou and its still i lil to tight and im realy kinda goin nuts here any ideas? i did double check all the races to see that they were seated and im lost i cant beleave that w/ the collar spacer that is 10thou more than the one that came out and a additional 120thou of shims and its still not there !!!!!!!????????? ps ive been checking all this at 137ft lbs min torq? Im having a similar issue with mine. Its very ruff feeling like the bearrings are shot. checked them out and the look fine. If asnybody has more imput on this please post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Usual bearing that goes bad is the ball bearing right under the pinion seal. If you tighten the pin nut and it freezes solid, you either have the wrong spacers between the two tapered roller bearings, or you have the seal dragging on the pinion flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 mine dose not freez sold but is very ruff to turn ..i have anothe r200 thats a 3.54 and i put the pinion shaft in that one and its still ruff but not as bad and when i put the original shaft back in its cherry. Only bearring that wasent changed was the one near the spline gear. ima play with my spacers and see if i can get a result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 HAH 10 mins later i got mine fixed. It was the spacers. I got out the mic and found some small but big differences. Switched them around and boom with a 140 ft lbs its smooth as silk. Im shur i could torque them more. Any imput on a specific torque for the CLSD R200 flange nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Check the pinion races for brinneling, which is when the bearings put little dents in the races. If you see this you'll need to replace the races and possibly the bearings too. http://www.stle.org/resources/lubelearn/wear/default.aspx#false Torque spec = RFT. I don't think it matters too much, just red loctite the nut. I put my impact on 5, fill the compressor, and nail it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Great info there. Thanks. Will check em out befor the final torque. Thanks again. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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