Is the 10-bolt good enough?

[Jonas]

Hi.

 

I have a 10-bolt, 8,5", from a 96 impala SS/caprice (a former cop-car).

It have disk-breaks. And the big cevy bolt pattern (127 x 5 lugg)

 

I have to make it shorter so new axles without the c-clips are a must.

And I will probably change the diff to..

 

Will it hold togheter if I put in my csb 355' with 450hp?

 

Or is it only the f**d 9" that will do the job properly?

 

 

Best regards. Jonas

[dr_hunt]

The 10 bold will hold up for awhile, but if your going to run some sticky tires and do hard launches it won't be around for long.

 

There are other options, take a peek in the drivetrain sticky section on rear diffs. Several members have gone that route, self included. The 9 is so simple and works so well it is the obvious choice that is practical.

[grumpyvette]

the ford 9" and dana 60 rear were used for years in trucks and a few cars, theres still plenty out there in salvage yards and many are also reasonably priced

 

 

typical results of 450hp, slicks and a 10 bolt rear differential

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/MrMustangMan357

 

video of what happeneds when a 10 or 12 bolt chevy rear fails at the track

 

ford 9" length info

 

http://dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm

[JMortensen]

12 bolt is another option. You've got some pretty good aftermarket setups now with bolt in axles with higher spline counts, etc.

[Jonas]

First, thanks for your answers!

 

I would go for the 9 but it is pretty expensive over here, almost dubble the 10bolt, in "ready to run spec".

 

What exactly is the weak point in the 10bolt?

My point is, when it is set up with new axles and diff, "Strange" for example, its practically same parts as in the 9? Unless I use big sticky tires on the strip I cant see any reason it will break so much easier?

 

In the vid where the tire and drive-axle falls of it is because of the c-clip. It's a easy problem to fix, when uppgrading the axle.

 

Thanks for the 9" length info!

[JMortensen]

To fix the ring and pinion destruction pictured above, the answer is to use a bigger stronger ring and pinion. The 10 bolt is 8.5 or 8.6. The 12 bolt is an 8.875" ring gear. The 9" is self explanatory.

 

A 10 bolt would certainly be better on a Z than on a heavy domestic car, but if you're going to change axles and suspension link pickups and all the rest, why not start with the larger stronger diff?

[Jonas]

I see your point, while doing the job it doesnt mather witch axle I use, its the same amount of work.

 

Then I'll just have to figure out if it's worth buying a new 9" and get breaks and everything or go on with the slightly weaker 10bolt that I already have!

 

Thanks for all the advice!

[GRUMPZ]

The dana 60 is the cheapest to build and you will never break it. stock gears are fine and there are many options for brakes depending on housing ends you choose. There are no issues on welding like the 8.8 (another popular choice) and it fits with minor frame mods.the large crossmember will need to be trimmed and ad a support right above it.. Cheap and easy.

[grumpyvette]

, and a DANA 60 has a 9.75" ring gear, you can just about drop a 10 bolt rears gears thru a dana 60 set

 

 

approximate differance in component size...heres the u-joints

[dr_hunt]

First, thanks for your answers!

 

I would go for the 9 but it is pretty expensive over here, almost dubble the 10bolt, in "ready to run spec".

 

What exactly is the weak point in the 10bolt?

My point is, when it is set up with new axles and diff, "Strange" for example, its practically same parts as in the 9? Unless I use big sticky tires on the strip I cant see any reason it will break so much easier?

 

In the vid where the tire and drive-axle falls of it is because of the c-clip. It's a easy problem to fix, when uppgrading the axle.

 

Thanks for the 9" length info!

 

The problem with the 10 bolt is the flex in the housing. The pinion gear tends to separate from the ring gear under high loads. The 9 inch is not that much bigger diameter, less than 1/2 inch, but is much stronger due to the extra bearing on the end of the pinion gear which keeps the two gears closer together.

 

C clips are a big no no for most forms of racing, the 10 bolt in a z would probably fair better than it does in most of the heavy cars it came in IMO. It is not just a function of HP, but weight of the car your trying to move.

[JMortensen]

Agreed. And if you didn't already know "C-clip eliminators" suck. They are tempting because they are cheap, but they leak all the time. If you can, go for different housing ends with bolt in axles.

[GRUMPZ]

I built my dana cheap and it don't flex period. less resistance than a 9 inch also..I paid150 for a 4x4rear 4.10gear, 200.00 to narrow with big bearings and 8.8 brake housing ends, 510.00 for spool ,35 spline axlesand bearings . I think 860.00 for a race quality rearend that I could put in a 700 hp 4000 pound car will survive well under my z. If street driving is desired then a different locker would be needed but they can be found .