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Wrenchrat


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Yea that is just a donor.

So someday I will have to take my ZX over there and pull the engine to see how things will line up.

I just love the straight 6, but if I can save a load.......

Plus the kit is should fit all kinds of old muscle cars and it is geared to older fellows that want to mod, but also want to stick with what they know (carbs).

I would prefer stand alone ecu and fi.

 

Just cause.

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That was something I was wondering as well, hypereutectic or forged pistons? They also probably had to make at least some changes to the carb for the blowthrough setup.

 

in ANY supercharged or high rpm combo youll be much better off with FORGED 2618 alloy pistons, hypereutectic pistons work great in low stress conditions but detonation ,heat, and high stress tend to damage them far faster than forged designs,detonation ,heat, and high stress and lack of cooling lube will kill any piston but forged designs tend to run for longer under the abuse before problems arise

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Mark, thanks for turning me onto this site.

 

The website will be updated here in roughly 2 weeks with more information and pictures on the Twin Turbo system.

 

The motor in this video was the 2nd one we built which had more money than the first... Here is a rundown of the components in both engines...

 

***Carb was a blow-through 750cfm Holley built by CSU Carbs***

 

**1st engine (383 sbc):

STOCK 4-bolt main block

Scatt 9000 CAST Crank

Powdered rods (stock)

CHEAP probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression

STOCK cast-iron heads 993-cast#

small cam *224/218 dur., .541 lift 114ls* ---solid roller---

Victor Jr. Intake

CSU 750cfm blow-through carb

 

21-22lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 780rwhp & 807rwtq

 

14lbs and pump gas... 661rwhp & 700+rwtq

 

(max rpm: 5,500)

 

As long as you can keep the rpm down and the tune safe you can make stock parts live for quite a while. The first motor we actually overboosted to probably 40psi on accident and it bent the 4-rods in the middle, STILL drove it home!! Pulled it apart and the crank was PERFECT so we threw in another set of stock rods and beat the crap out of it!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

**2nd engine (383 sbc) *In the video*:

STOCK 2-bolt main block with splayed 4-bolt caps

Forged Crank

Forged H-beam rods

CHEAP Probe forged pistons 8.4:1 compression

Pro-Comp 190cc aluminum heads

Larger N/A based cam *541lift...238/234 duration @50, 115ls* ---hydraulic roller---

Victor Jr. Intake

CSU 750cfm blow-through carb

24lbs boost, 110 octane, water/meth system.... 820rwhp &751rwtq (max rpm: 6,500)

 

 

You don't need a high dollar, high rpm engine to make a bunch of power. The cam in the 2nd engine was more of a N/A cam which we threw in to show what your typical hot-rodder might already have in the car. With a more turbo oriented cam it would have produced more power. This motor had roughly 48 dyno pulls and many street miles and is still running strong!! It's not too difficult to hit 1,000hp at the crank.....

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Blowthroughs don't work ;)

 

Is your water/meth kit from AIS (Alcohol Injection Systems)? What turbos are you running? I'm shooting for about 1100 FWHP for my next sbc that I'm building now.

 

The water/meth system is Snow's, I do like the look and ease of AIS' system though.

 

The 1st motor we were running 61mm ball-bearing water cooled turbos (.81A/R exhaust), rated at roughly 680hp each.

 

The turbo's on the 2nd motor (vid) are 68mm ball-bearing water cooled turbo's (.81A/R exhaust), rated at roughly 800hp each.

 

You would probably be looking for a pair of turbo's in the 61-63mm range. They would be good for more than the 1,100hp your looking for so if you wanted more it would be there. They would really be in there efficiency range at the 1,100hp mark.

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