nissan_matt22 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 i just bought my third s130, an 82 non turbo. it runs great, every two days or so, it wont start it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont fire... then ten minutes later it starts fine, i got a few ideas just wanted to see what other ideas you guys got thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Do a full tune-up. Esp. plugs wires and cap and rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissan_matt22 Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 i did that this morning it still starts a little hard but it seems to be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Next, get a fuel pressure gage and install it. Might as well get a new fuel filter as well. If problem still presists, start checking and cleaning ALL connectors. (including grounds) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver280zx Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 spray some ether down in the intake and see if it will start up on the ether fumes, if it does, then its something to do with fuel delivery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I would say a sticking pressure regulator is causing the issue, but without more info it's hard to tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 any time I hear about a starting issue that goes away in ten minutes, I think thermotime sensor first. Have you read the EFI bible? it contains all your answers... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borini63 Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Fuel pump relay ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenshinX Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I believe my problem is the fuel pump relay as well, but where is it exactly? I just replaced my fuel pump so that cant be. I also replaced my fuel filter and plugs. I have a 260z with a L26 on carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I believe my problem is the fuel pump relay as well, but where is it exactly? I just replaced my fuel pump so that cant be. I also replaced my fuel filter and plugs. I have a 260z with a L26 on carbs Have you read the EFI bible? it contains all your answers... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible ahem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenshinX Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I dont have EFI. would the relay be located in the same area under the passengers seat?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMaxDallas Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 I dont have EFI. would the relay be located in the same area under the passengers seat?? It is in the link he posted above, print it out, put it in a 3 ring binder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Well, actually a carb'd car has a totally different system. In the EFI system, the fuel pump relay is there for a few reasons. The electric fuel pump on the 260 was there only to supplement the mechanical fuel pump on the engine... so I do not know where the relay is, but the only purpose for such a relay would be to ensure that the fuel pummp is OFF when the engine is NOT running... A fuel pump relay on a carb system like that is only there to cut the pump OFF in case of an accident. In any case, its totally unrelated to the contents of this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renatodato Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Get a used ignition module from the junk yard and switch it with the existing one. If this solves the problem buy a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMaxDallas Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Get a used ignition module from the junk yard and switch it with the existing one. If this solves the problem buy a new one. My sons Z (N/A) had the same problem with the key switch, if you would just turn it enough to start cranking it would work. If you just turn it all the way it would not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I would agree with renatodato. The black box bolted to the side of the distributor is usually the culprit with the symptoms described. We used to tap near them on a solid piece of the distributor housing with a brass drift at Z shop of miami but I got to the point that I would run the car, experience the failure and use freeze spray on the distributor housing since it is basically heat sinked to it. If cooling it brough the car back to running, then I replaced it with a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenshinX Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Oops, sorry just noticed this was in the Zx section. I was just searching for fuel pump relay posts and this came up. sorry daeron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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