Clutch hose AN size confusion

[Rod in NC]

Per the JTR manual, I purchased the 3/4" bore Tilton master cylinder, and it has a -3AN port on it for the hose going to the slave cylinder. On the previous page in the JTR manual, it says to also purchase the McLeod hose fitting (p/n 139026) for the Camaro slave cylinder, which is a male -4AN fitting. And it says to buy a 24" long -4AN steelbraided hose.

 

My question is, do I need to buy a -4AN to -3AN male/male adapter so that my -4AN hose will go into the -3AN port in the Tilton master cylinder? Or is the -AN nomenclature just for the hose diameter, and the fittings on the end of a -3AN and a -4AN hose are the same thread?

 

Any clarification on the -AN sizing would be helpful.

 

I'd like to buy the hose, the McLeod fitting, and any adapter fitting (if needed) all at the same time from Summit Racing. Thanks for any help, and MERRY CHRISTMAS from NC. -Rod

[mark]

Yes you need to get from a 3 to a 4. The way I would do it is to buy a 3/8 inverted flair-24 to a #4 fitting to replace the 3/8-24 to #3 that came with the master cyclinder. That would allow you to take the #4 line straight off the master without an additional fitting.

[Rod in NC]

Thanks so much! I'll look up that adapter fitting and order with the other stuff. -Rod

[lgoodson@pacbell.net]

Thanks to evryone on this site ans especially Gvincent here is what I did:

 

Auto zone had the 92 Camaro slave Part #10380 (metal) price $59.99. They also had a composite one for $53.99 but interestingly it did not have a bleed screw.

Carshopinc.com had the -3 conversion fittings, part# 640281, 2 for $19.95 plus $10 for shipping, ouch. Necessary to connect the GM slave to the -3 line

Tilton Master from AASCO (714-758-8500) $100. They build parts for race cars and build the race cars themselves. Porches. I bought the 75-875U because it is shorter and will not require moving the Winshield washer tank whereas the 74-875 would have. 875 = 7/8" bore. They both have the same stroke 1 1/8". They use the -3 line

The braided steel -3 line I purchased for $45 from a hydralic hose shop, straight -3 fitting female on one end and a 90 degree female fitting on the slave end. 36" in length. The G M hose was 24" and about 12" too short if you are picky about how you route the line.

So for about $210-220 I should be able to disengage the clutch. And all I thought I needed was a master?

I could save $60 if I could learn how to bleed the existing Camaro Slave since it doen't have a bleed screw. I am told by everyone on this site that it can be done so I will be trying. I'm still waiting for the adapters.

Larry

[mark]

Rod,

 

where in NC are you?

 

I'm just outside of Charlotte.

[Rod in NC]

Mark, I'm straight up I-85 from Charlotte in Salisbury. -Rod

 

Larry, apparently you had no issues using the -3AN hose rather than the larger -4 AN hose listed in the JTR manual. Your install sounds the simplest, and Summit Racing has all the fittings (including the 90 degree ends on the hose) for the -3AN setup. The engine and tranny are going in the car today (YEA!), and then I will confirm the hose length need to hook up the slave to the master. Thanks again. -Rod

[mark]

Rod,

 

I'm just off 85 near the Lowes Motor speedway. Let me know if you need a hand. I've done a couple of these cars and have a few parts laying around.

[lgoodson@pacbell.net]

Rod I miss that about the -4 in the JTR manual. I have been given conversion instructions from a few people on this site and I believe they have all talked about using -3 lines. I talked to my hydralic shop about the need to use a -4 line in between a two -3 fittings, because that is what the OEM slave has and also the tilton has, and would that be an improvement. They said that they didn't believe there would be any need. I believe that the volume that you would gain is the result of the size of the Master Bore that is why I use the 7/8 bore rather that the 3/4 bore that JTR specifies.

My hydralic shop also told me that they didn't have a fitting to enlarge to a -4 line from a -3 but I suppose somewhere there is one.

Larry

[kenny_b]

ANPlumbing.com has 'em all, but as stated below, get the AN-3 fittings that connect directly to master and slave cylinders - more fittings = more trouble sources...

 

Bleeding an OEM slave cylinder is a @#$%^. For the 1993 - 1997 Camaro/ Firebird (external slave, not hydraulic throw-out) you have to take the slave off, hang it lower than the master (in Z-cars they usually are lower), open the reservoir, push the slave in about 3/4 to 7/8 and hold, close the reservoir and then pump the slave in and out until no more bubbles rise. This is especially hard if you have a non-transparent reservoir, since you can't see whether there are bubbles or not. I had fun and I have no idea if it even worked. Will see when the driveshaft goes in and I can test-run the engine...

 

Cheers, Kenny

[graphicjunkie]

I used this recipe here (THANKS!) and bought the slave, the conversion fittings, the master... But when I called the local hydraulic shop for the hose, they treated me like I was speaking Greek.

They had no idea what I was talking about when I mentioned the -3 and so on. I told them it was 3/4" in size, but they needed to know if it was JIC or a slew of other acronyms. My kit just showed up from JTR, to include the swap guide and the TPI book. I'm hoping that I can read through it and it will answer some of these questions as well.

 

 

Thanks to evryone on this site ans especially Gvincent here is what I did:

 

Auto zone had the 92 Camaro slave Part #10380 (metal) price $59.99. They also had a composite one for $53.99 but interestingly it did not have a bleed screw.

Carshopinc.com had the -3 conversion fittings, part# 640281, 2 for $19.95 plus $10 for shipping, ouch. Necessary to connect the GM slave to the -3 line

Tilton Master from AASCO (714-758-8500) $100. They build parts for race cars and build the race cars themselves. Porches. I bought the 75-875U because it is shorter and will not require moving the Winshield washer tank whereas the 74-875 would have. 875 = 7/8" bore. They both have the same stroke 1 1/8". They use the -3 line

The braided steel -3 line I purchased for $45 from a hydralic hose shop, straight -3 fitting female on one end and a 90 degree female fitting on the slave end. 36" in length. The G M hose was 24" and about 12" too short if you are picky about how you route the line.

So for about $210-220 I should be able to disengage the clutch. And all I thought I needed was a master?

I could save $60 if I could learn how to bleed the existing Camaro Slave since it doen't have a bleed screw. I am told by everyone on this site that it can be done so I will be trying. I'm still waiting for the adapters.

Larry

[lgoodson@pacbell.net]

-3 or AN3 is what you want and if you go to a Hydralic shop they. don't know what your talking about , go to another shop. Probably was a new hire that you were talking to. Everyone that I discussed this conversion with knew exactly what I was talking about. After all, it's what they do! I am confused about your statement that you told them that it was 3/4" in size. That is the master piston diameter and has nothing to do with the hose you use.

[graphicjunkie]

Sorry, I didn't translate that part of the conversation correctly.

When she asked me about pressure rating, I told her that it was for the clutch master/slave assembly which was 3/4". I was hoping that would answer her question on pressure.

I hate this because I've never had to deal with hydraulics and really feel caught with my pants down here.

[lgoodson@pacbell.net]

Update on the bleeding. I did with no problem. I bench bled the slave working the slave piston with a tube on to it into a jar of brake fluid until the were no air bubbles. Capped the tube. Secondly I installed the master and put the -3 line into a jar of fluid. Keeping the resevoir full I pumped the petal until all the air was out. Connected th em together and pumped the petal a few times an as I did the spongyness disapeared, No Bleeder valve used.