Heavy Z Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 My T5 has a leaky input shaft seal and this is causing the clutch to slip. So, I figure (1) replace seal (2) replace clutch disk (3) fix the McLeod system with copper fittings before it starts leaking. I'd like to pull the trans with the bellhousing attached, but since I didn't install it myself, I thought I'd check to make sure the JTR setup allows this removal. Hopefully, I won't have to yank out the whole eng/trans package to get the job done. While I've got it out, I've heard from ZDreamer about a sturdier collar to keep the rear output shaft in place. If anyone has a link, let me know. BTW, what clutch disk do I go with? It's a 327, and as the previous owner's phone is down so I'm unsure as to what I've got in there. Do I use the clutch from a '67 vette(engine) or '85 camaro(trans)? Suggestions?? Thanks for the help, Heavy Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 You've got a T5, which points to a 53 tooth flywheel.... I think you just need a clutch disk for that flywheel and you should be set... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 That's 153 tooth flywheel. A 53 toother would be tiny! www.gearzone.net has the billet steel countershaft stabilizer as well as manual trans rebuild parts. If you have never checked that page out, it's pretty good. The "shorty" T5 for Jaguar applications is really cool. Your clutch disc needs to match both the 26 spline input shaft of the T5 and the diameter of the pressure plate on the motor. You may have to take it apart to find out what you have. I assume you have the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing? Also, are you sure it is the trans seal leaking and not the rear main seal on the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 This may not apply to you, but I found that separating the tranny from the bellhousing works better than pulling the bellhousing with it. I've got the McLeod hydraulic T/O bearing, and it has to be worked off the bearing snout first. After doing this a couple of times (before re-installing the tranny and bellhousing assembly back onto the motor), I figured out that drilling a 1.5" hole in the bottom of the bellhousing (avoiding any webbing in the casting) under the T/O bearing allows one to insert a long, broad head screwdriver between the T/O bearing and the tranny front bearing retainer. Using the screw driver (twisting action) to "break loose" the O-ring retainer allows the T/O bearing to slide off the rest of the way when the tranny is pulled out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heavy Z Posted August 13, 2002 Author Share Posted August 13, 2002 Thanks for the advice everyone. I spoke to the previous owner today and it has a McLeod clutch. I'm still undecided on whether to pull the whole eng/trans just the trans/bell. Heavy Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Searching netted this thread. I'm trying to figure out if I should pull the trans or the motor and trans to fix a problem. You can read about that in here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129438 Anyway, I though about just dropping the Trans, w/ out the bell housing but the HTOB is THREADED onto the input shaft, that probably won't work. So I am wondering if the JTR set up will allow me to easily pull the trans. I imagine I'll have to let the motor tilt down in the back a bit so I can get to all the bell houseing/block bolts and slide it out. Anyone done this? How did you support the back of your SBC. This part is what has me the most concerned, with the JTR mounts. all the weight is held up front w/ the trans, and withough the trans, I'll have to have a good support under the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I decided to pull just the trans by itself. Worked an hour or so yesterday prepping, pulling the dizzy, shifter, and exhaust. I rolled around looking at EVERYTHING 3 or 4 times before deciding to do it. Today, since it was so nice, I decided to go for it. Once I got all the bell housing bolts loose I regretted not trying to just pull the tail section. Actually it wasn't too bad accept for the fact that the offset of the whole thing to the passenger side made getting those bolts out almost impossible and there just isn't enough room to easily slide the trans all the way out. I had to slide/rotate/angle the 90+ thing on my chest until it came out. The input shaft came in contact with the pressure plate fingers a couple of times. I don't think I anything but, it was a bit hair raising. I'd recommend pulling motor and trans together, unless you really know what you are doing and you are in better shape than I. I really need to get back in the gym! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.