heavy85 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I've spent the Winter tweaking my front suspension. - replacing offset bushings with spherical bearing - adding caster via adding spacer in front of the g-machine t/c bushing - swapping out tie rods with rod-ends to adjust bump steer - finally upping to 300 lb springs It's one of those install, check, tweak, install, check, tweak .... taking waayy to long kind of things to get everything to work. So I finally get everything together and my wheels dont fit. The bolt/washer hits the rim. So now my options are to up to 16" rims ($ and weight), use 1/2" wheel spacers - if I could find any, or go back to stock . The inner LCA pivot has already been moved up ~5/8" and I run 1" "bumpsteer" spacers so the bumpsteer was not bad. But on rough roads and one particular bumper corner entry the steer wheel feeds back more than I want. Thoughts, comments, something else I'm missing? PS - anyone see a reason shimming the T/C rod forward would cause issue? I noticed that there is excess threads sticking out the back so thought why not make use of them and added a 3/8" shim to push the LCA forward and add a little bit of caster. I was going to go with a rod-end T/C set-up but didn't want to push the mounting point out with the traditional method and dont want to spend the time to make a more elegant design. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Wheel spacers will probably be your cheapest option - even with the price of new wheel studs/nuts. How much caster are you running right now? I don't see anything wrong with moving the t/c rod forward although excessive amounts will increase steering effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I would see what you can get away with by removing the strut spacer. If that doesn't work, I like Myron's idea of wheel spacers too. You can also slot the front crossmember for more adjustability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 As suggested above, remove or machine the strut spacer down enough to clear. I would start by taking 1/4" out of the strut spacer and see how that works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 I feel like a dumb ass. Been staring at this too long to see the obvious .... will shave down the strut spacers. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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