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Ross' Sleeper Z


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Ok, so here it is spring time and the dash is still sitting in my dining room!  I finally managed to figure out that the FSM wiring diagram and my car's hand brake wire does not match.  Finishing up the dash seems simple enough but now I have other interests that are consuming my limited time :unsure:

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  • 5 months later...

Axles finally complete, Dash is in, wiring is a mess!  My house is for sale and is supposed to close mid-October.  I would love to drive the car to my new apartment rather than have it towed.  I need to get the car again running soon!  

 

Missing a few straps but you get the idea...

 

IMG_20140903_045700_zps02f1efa0.jpg

 

I'm trying to figure out where all these bullet and spade connectors go:

 

IMG_20140914_190930_zps0ce713f6.jpg

 

IMG_20140914_190939_zps5087ed30.jpg

 

IMG_20140914_190953_zps5d661c08.jpg

Edited by rossman
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  • 3 weeks later...

I drove the car for the first time in two years this morning. Its hard to believe it's been that long! I'm moving so I'm under the gun to get it going to avoid having it towed.  Its very rough but good enough to drive it the mile or so to my new place.

 

It was kinda funny, as soon as I pulled out of my steep ass driveway it died, restarted but barely ran, died and would not start again.  The wideband was showing super lean. I was like WTF????  I could not for the life of me figure what changed in that instant.  Did something fall off?  Did the drivetrain or suspension pull off a low hanging wire?  What the heck could it be?  Maybe it ran out of gas?  Naw that can't be it.  I put 5 gallons in it....maybe I'll put some more in just in case.  Fired right up.  Sometimes it's the simple things.  :lol:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got the car registered and inspected today. The inspector guy was highly annoyed because he couldnt figure out the clutch. He even called it a pos under his breath. What a jerk! Anyway, I got my sticker :).

The car feels VERY fast and I only have a 5 lbs spring in the wastegate, no boost controller. Baby steps.

Edited by rossman
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  • 1 month later...

Well, I think I may have trashed my differential.  It was the first time I held it to the floor all the way to redline (7500) 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th...>60mph  ;)  then let off due to major pucker factor :shock: .  I coasted down to <60 mph then hit the gas to maintain speed and heard a howling sound from the rear of the car.  I drained the differential when I got home and found LOTS of shavings on the magnet :cuss:.  Gonna pull the diffential tomorrow to see what's going on.  Oh, well, I needed a higher ratio anyway :P.  I'm thinking 3.51...any other options that fit a z31 LSD?

Edited by rossman
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  • 4 weeks later...

I am hoping to keep the current setup.  The 8.8 swap sounds awesome but it's more money/effort than I want to spend right now.

 

I pulled the differential and inspected.  The bearings are trashed but the gearset looks good. Ther is scoring and heat damage.  The guy who assembled it put a TON of shim on the side bearings. Maybe he shimmed it too tight? I dunno.  There is also a bunch of metal shavings inside which I assume contributed or caused to the bearing failure.  I need to find the source of the shavings.  I did drive it for ~100 miles with considerable clutch chatter.  Clutches are coming out this weekend for inspection.

Edited by rossman
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I don't believe my issues are caused by the differential being too weak. It should last a long time if I can get the differential in order.  I haven't seen any guys with relatively small displacement turbo engines (e.g. big phil) run into problems with the R200.  Also, I don't have any plans to upgrade power-wise past the currrent setup. Frankly, I have lost interest in high-horsepower cars and I have another expensive addiction (cycling) that is more satisfying to me. Besides, the speed and power of this car scares the sh!t out of me even at it's current, poorly tuned 10 lbs of boost state!

 

It's been over 3 years since the differential was rebuilt and I don't trust the guy to do it again.  I'm going to let him know what happened and move on...assuming his assembly was the issue. Here is what's going thru my mind...I take the guy a factory set-up differential, have him swap out bearings and seals and he has to install almost 2X the amount of shims. My money is on an incorrect setup.

Edited by rossman
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Too bad you are not closer, I could do it for you.  If you need some parts let me know, I usually get really good deals.   

 

Here are a couple shops near you, I haven't used them before, but they are active on TexasNissans.com

 

Please Feel free to contact Ben and Dane
via email at houstonzauto@gmail.com
by Phone at 936 463 8966 or 
Visit their Facebook page www.facebook.com/houston.zauto

 

 

Powerfab Auto:

Cypress Creek Parkway #703 Houston, TX 77070 Phone: 281-477-0572 sales@powerfabauto.com www.powerfabauto.com

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I've used PowerFab before.  Jeremy is a good guy. They recommend I take the differential to Houston Automatic Transmissions. Scott at HAT told me that if the bearings are shot there is a good chance the gearset is shot.  I'll probably run it by there Friday for an estimate.

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  • 1 month later...

I mounted the bus bars with sheet metal screws painted with rust preventative primer.  I wet install all sheet metal screws to prevent rust.

 

My differential is at Houston Automatic Transmission awaiting back-ordered parts.  Scott is a good guy.  I have confidence he will do the job right.

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  • 2 months later...

The differential is in and the car is back in action!  I've been breaking in the gear set over the past week, trying to stay out of the throttle.  Man it's hard; the car wants to go like a bat outta hell! 

 

There are a few issues to work out:

 

1) The tune needs lots of work.  My AFR's jump around a lot, even at some crusing speeds. Just need to spend some qualty time with it.

 

2) I'm getting a lot of buzzing after it warms up at the fuel filter mount on my firewall. It only happens when the car is warmed up at idle. The filter is clean.  Not sure what's going on.  It may be that the A1000 pump is just too choked off at idle.  I have 5/8" feed and 1/2" return lines so you wouldn't think that is the case.  I do have a pump speed controller which isn't set up yet, right now it runs full speed all the time.  It should should help as it will reduce the pump speed by up to 50% at idle, thus lowering the fuel pressure and stress on the pump. It also means I have to re-map the ECU but that *should* be pretty straight forward.

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